Decided to replace the old 3500V6 with a 3.9L LZ9 engine. ran a best of 11.13 with the 3.5, hoping this motor will run quicker.

Basically an internally stock LZ9 :

60# Mini Siemens injectors
Proform elec. waterpump
TCE timing cover / thermostat outlet
TCE external crank trigger
WOT Tech Street Strip Turbo Cam with pushrods
PAC springs
TCE SBC cam bearing spacers
Durabond SBC cam bearings
75mm GM Truck TB
LZ4 intake manifold (ported)

Pass side mount, was real easy to make, easier than the old 3500 mount it replaced on account of it all being on one plane whereas the 3500 mount had 3 different angles.



Other side is my 3500 mount, so nothing new there, bolts right up...



All kinds of room for my turbo, there's PLENTY of room under the alt. for a 4" downpipe, should I ever require one... 3.5" will do for now :



And finally I have to re-do some of the charge piping cause I want to run a little bit of 3" before i hit the 75mm LS1 throttle body. Started off by making this 2.5" to 3" cone and will incorporate that somplace into the charge pipes when I get that all figured out.



I ordered a V8 model radiator as my rad hose connections don't work soo well with this 3900. The inlet/outlets on a V8 rad are opposite the V6, left right bottom upper are all criss-crossed so that'll work and be cleaner looking.

Got rid of the power steering :



Location of the turbo :



As you can see the turbo is mounted alot lower in the engine compartment compared to my old setup so that the dp can go under the alt.




Alt. clearance is tight.




Tight radius pie cuts required for the drivers side...

 

Installed the new intercooler it's an Ebay special CXracing 31X12X4 unit. These seem to get good reviews online,so I decided to get one. My old IC had both inlets on the same side and it was alot of extra piping and very tight bends to get it all to work. The piping for this one will be alot cleaner and less cramped.





Hopefully the cooler intake charge will offset the shear weight of this heavy ****.

Throttle cable braket for my 4.3L 75mm TB. Works perfect and looks OK I suppose.



Fits perfect !



Drivers side hotside, I figured truck manifolds setups work soo well, and using 14ga. pipe this should be STRONG.



I picked up a used 3.45 9 bolt rear :



Got some pics of my goodies for the rear end.



Spohn Weld on LCARB's.
3.45 rear end 9 bolt.



TA perf. cover
ARP carrier bearing studs
MSF racing BW78 series rear drag spool
JEGS extended wheelstuds

I just have to drop everything off to some reputable shop and get all the bearings changed and the backlash set. Not doing it myself as the last time I set up a rear end it lasted 100 miles.

Should have more pics of the rest of the car soon, work is coming along, still shooting for May racing, worst case June.

 

Hot damm. Impressive as always man.

 

i have that same intercooler on my tt iroc they work great

 

cant wait to see videos of this in action, Mars

 

What trucks are those manifolds from and would they work on a 3.1 iron head?

 

Sorry, I wasn't really clear on that. I was just using the manifold comparison to the LSX turbo setups that use pickup truck manifolds.

That manifold is out of a 3.9 G6 GTP.

 

Sweet set up man and awsome times on the old setup. What made you want to run a v6 in an Iroc?

 

would those 3.9 g6 gtp manifolds work on the 3.1? they seem to have that 0 00 pattern that the 3.1 stock manifolds have if im not mistaken

 

bolt pattern is almost the same , but on the aluminum head stuff the bolt holes are further apart

come to think of it the 3900 has a larger bore spacing so im not sure if the bolt holes will be close to lining up


i know u can use 2.8/3.1/3.4 manifolds on the 3100/3400/3500 by slicing the outsides of the bolt holes and they will work , with real headers u just use a file or diegrinder and grind the holes outward 1/8 inch


witht he aluminum head stuff ( manifolds anyways) im not sure u could cut the holes inward without cutting into the manifold were the ex is going threw it to make them fit

 

Lots of room! Nice work. How is it tuned? I've been through the 3.5 thread but forgot how it was tuned and what kind of boost it was seeing.

 

I run Code59 with a 7730 ECM.

Might go to MS3 soon, but we shall see.

The 3.5 VVT or 3.9 VVT motors have totally different exhaust manifolds, the bolts are offset and won't work. But any of the ones below work.

Look at Fiero manifolds also... might work well for a turbo setup.

 

Here is my original cavalier :

Ran high 11's, street car grocery getter. It was a real fun machine with a centrifugal blower. Came to an end though after a kid pulled out in front of me and I couldn't stop in time. I then wanted a better platform, decided to use the F-body..

 

Nice, would love to see and old Cavy make a pass like that in person. I bet you pissed off alot of people with that cavy The IROC looks nice and is a way cooler car IMO.

 

Ok, here is a small update :

Just wanted to show the driver's side piping to the T4 flange.

It was a very tight bend, so I ended up using pie cuts to make the bend. I think it came out alright..

test fitting :



more test fitting :



fully welded with 38mm gate and screamer pipe.



re-did the fuel lines in braided stainless with Earomotive FPR. I made a little mount for the FPR that bolts to the ign. coil braket.



I just have to add a little steel to the collector, to block off both banks, and smooth out everything in there.

Next up is a new downpipe, i have to get new battery cables, and a couple other random things and I should be ready to fire it up.

Will post more pics when it's running.

 

So the 3.9 have the same trans bolt pattern as a 90° v8. Kool build and cavy, I fear some one will pull out on my IROC and I will go to jail

 

The bolt pattern is different.

 

I thought so, how do u get a th350 behind it

 

by using a bellhousing adapter plate. speedway motors has them iirc

 

Yeah, adapter plate. Speedway motors. Comes with a bushing or spacer to center the converter in the crank snout as well. Nice piece for the price. My old threads show how the block needed modification to work.

 

Can't wait so see vids!

 

Took it racing. The gates were setup for 6 psi and it ran 7.46 - 94 MPH with a 1.76 (I dialed in a 7.50 and ran mostly on the dial all weekend). all runs between 7.46 and 7.65 at 6 psi. My best 60' of the weekend was a 1.74.

Then on Sat night, I wanted to try a 15 psi run and it broke loose on the launch, car went sideways, I peddled it and still ran a 7.20 @ 101 that was on a 1.87 sixty foot. The track had gotten cold I think.

Safe to say it runs 10.s I just need to get it to a 1/4 track.

I'm happy with it. I smoked an alternator Sat night also, the guy camping beside me had a spare, so he gave it to me, I bolted it up and finished third place in the Sport class (7.50-8.99) index. I think I have to wrap my turbine and downpipe, alternator is getting WAY too hot.

I also bought into the points series and have a permanent car number now : "660".

Moo ha ha. Might have pics and vids coming, I didn't have time to take any, but maybe the track photographer got some.

 

That's amazing man. I love to see your post. I finally got a 1.78 60 ft time and thought that was fast. But your running literly half the boost I am and went faster. That's pretty cool bro.

I didn't get to use my 2 step the other weekend but hope to for the first time soon. I cant set mine up to 3400 like you though. My brakes just can hold me that high.

 

I have to stage, push the brake down, rev up, then the motor makes more vaccum and really drives the braked pedal down, then it holds.

I edged through a couple times before I did the rev up thing. Works great.

 

Do you build some boost with the 2 step? Ive been playing with mine here and there in the garage but it makes about 2-3psi without touching the timing or anything and I can hold that.

Seeing that you trapped over 100mph in the 1/8 mile just says how much of a monster that car is. Congrats man, its a hellof a car.

 

Yeah it builds a a little boost, around 5.

 

Nice work, enjoy!

 

Keep it up Mars!

 

Thats awesome!

 

Well, I raced this weekend, had an issue with my slicks (They were showing nylon chords on Sat morning). These are a 26X10.5 MH cheater slick. I bought a set of 28X10.5 MT ET Drags tires from a fellow racer for 100$, mounted them and was getting better sixty foots, and running quicker times. best of all, only one shift, I can keep it in second gear at the end of 660'

Was pretty happy about that, the car feels SOO much better with a 28" tire... Maybe my 26's were just too old and worn though. They were like driving on ice on my last run, when the chords started to show.

I was able to run a few 7.3XX at 6 psi.

Then, for my last 2 test and tune runs, I had a leak in my wastegate fittings, and at boost level unknown it ran 7.1 @ 107. LMAO. I was happy. Turned the car around, let it cool a bit and backed it up with another 7.1 @ 107...

Then I found the leak, fixed it, and continued to run my typical 7.45 - 7.55 @ 6 psi.

Fun weekend, prolly have roughly 40 passes on the LZ9 now. Very impressed. Soo far, soo good as far as reliability. There was a GNX there... I showed him what was up...

 

vids or it didnt happen!

 

Yeah I should have some soon. Will post.

 

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Well that doesn't work.



lol

 

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Crap. I wana see a vid of that car making a pass. That car is amazing to V6 ppl like me.

 

How's the spool on the 3.9 vs. the 3.5?

 

Need video.

 

!!!!!!!!

 

so far one pic, and it is horrible...



28" tires fill the wheel wells nice though.

 

Hells ya they do. Looks alot better then the 28s on mine.

 

yeah, is goood.

 

damn those dont look like 28's

my car looks just like fasteddi's witht he 28's on it , jacked up in the rear lol

26x9's



and 28x10.5

 

Yup

 

Here is mine with 26x11's

Jealous of Mars's Prostars in the back though.

 

I am too. I like the prostars.

Mars why with the 2 o2 sensors on the downpipe?? Or can i just not see it well on my phone and ones a egt sensor....

 

one is a narrow band

 

Yeah one is for the AEM Wideband.

These aren't prostars, they are the Jegs ones. CONICAL LUG NUTS FTW. Heavier though... I hate the stupid lugnuts you need to use with the real drag wheels, with the shoulder.

 

Why a narrow and a wideband? Just curious. I though aem had a narrow output.

 

Never trust a wideband's narrow band output, if the wideband fowls out (and they do) you are stuck in open loop the whole way home...


I kept my WB in the center of the X pipe and the NB just right before that on one side.

When my NB failed about a month ago it was nice to have the NB sim to hold me over till i could get a new NB in there.. but it doesn't work the other way around.

Redundancy FTW

 

Yeah what he said. ^