Hi , I am from croatia , my name is Zeljko Kristijan , I own a second gen camaro and a couple of third gen firebirds. One firebird is being repaired and is givimg me grief all the time...

The engine is V6 3.1 (91). I have changed a new distributor cap , new rotor , new spark plugs , new cables , chainged the fluids and filters and the ECT sensor.

But still I have a problem , When cold , it shuts down in a couple of seconds , and when warm it idles with no problem. Also , the throttle response is late and it actually kinda suffocates a bit, and then responds. it does that cold and warm. The injectors were ultra sound cleaned.


Any ideas?

P.S. Are there any vacuum diagrams for that engine , the vacuums are butchered , as the previous owner done a really bad job of repairing it.

 

Did you change your pick up coil, ICM , and coil? Those and bad vacuum lines can cause a world of weird things. Is the car throwing any codes?

 

how can I check for codes? Where is the diagnostic port ? it probably doesnt have OBD port?

 

Under the hush panel by the gas pedal/ fuse box. Get a paper clip bend it, then insert into a&b on the port. Turn key to on but DON'T crank it on. There will be uses light flash. One, two times. It with do that I believe three times. After that count the flashes example: two flashes rest three flashes would be code 23. There are things in search explaining what codes mean what.

 

checked that. just gives a code 12 , repeats it 3. times and then it pauses , and repeats it again

 

OK the no codes is a good thing. Try changing ignition control module. ( trust me get the delco one the cheap ones wait til its pouring rain and your dressed up or with your girl to fail in the middle of no where)

 

can you please tell mi the part number or a picture of it, so I can find it?

 

Oh damn part number I don't know off hand. But remove the distributor car and rotor, then there is a black rectangular piece with three electronic connectors. Held on by two screws. Once unplugged remove the screws lift it out.
When installing the new one, don't forget use plenty die electric grease on the metal contact pad on the bottom of the part. Heat tends to kill these lil pieces.

 

thanks a lot! Will dismantle it , and clean it, then try i for the first thing...

I made a video , so that you can see my problem... you press the gas pedal all the way, and id just stalls... on 2500 rpm..if you start pumping, somehow it goes to 6k....


i dont know why there is no audio...

 

Check fuel pressure.

Check fuel filter.

Test the fuel pressure regulator.

Test the fuel pump.

 

mother of all vacuum routing threads:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...iagrams-i.html

 

THanks!!!! The vacuum diagrams seem ok

On the note: I have removed and blocked EGR and removed the air pump (And blocked the vacuum there).

the problems were there before that.

Also , I bought a new fuel filter , the old filter was seriously clogged.

how can I check the fuel pressure regulator?

The problem is I am from europe , and those cars arent quite standard there xD

 

If your fuel filter was clogged bad theres an extremely high chance that fuel pump got murdered. Imo. Check fuel pressure. I bet its under 30 lol


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Amigaboy, If you have trouble finding parts, try Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com). Your English is very good, but their web site also has Spanish, French, and German.

Someone mentioned the ignition control module (ICM). Some owners, including myself, keep an extra ICM in my car. If one goes bad on the road, it only takes 15 minutes to change. They have a sale on ACDELCO ICM Part #D1979 for $27.55 EUR ($36.79 USD) plus shipping.

Also, if you find that you need a new fuel pump, it is located inside the fuel tank. A number of us found it easier to cut a hole in the floor to change the fuel pump. Here is a link if you need to change and want to consider this: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...tal-above.html

However, before doing anything, follow W.E.G. advice and check your fuel pressure. It should be 37-47 PSI (2.60-3.304 kgf/cm2) and hold the pressure for 20 minutes. If not, it may be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator (FPR).

If you don't have a manual, buy a Haynes or Chilton's manual (Ebay). I've used my Haynes 1982-1992 Pontiac Firebird manual too many times to count. If you can find a General Motors (GM) Shop Manual, that is better, but much more expensive.

You sound like you have some good mechanic skills. Searching this web site will help you track down problems. There is a section that has most of the abbreviations (acronyms), that are used on this forum. However, I've put together my own list that has additional items which you may find useful. It is pasted below.

Blower: HVAC fan... In HVAC case near passenger's side hood hinge
CTG Coolant Temp Gauge sender/light switch... Driver's side cylinder head, behind A/C compressor, by lifting eye
CTS: Coolant temp sensor... Sensor in intake manifold behind thermostat housing
ESC, or electronic spark control module
EST: Electric Spark Timing
Fan: Radiator fan(s)
HVAC: Heating/air conditioning system
IAC: Idle air control valve... 4-wire unit in throttle body
IAT: Intake/Inlet (depends on what store you go to) temp sensor... either in the Camaro dual snorkel intake or air filter can
KS: Knock sensor... Down by starter, acts as the coolant jacket plug for the passenger's side of the engine block
MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor... Mounted on bracket mounted to cowl near middle of car just above the corner of the HVAC blower case
OPS: Oil Pressure Sensor and/or Switch: Screwed into the oil filter adapter, 2.8s have a 1-wire for the gauge and a 2-wire for the switch. Later cars have a 3-wire doing both at the same time
P/U: Pickup coil... Inside distributor
VSS: Vehicle speed sensor... Transmission tail housing on driver's side near trans mount

AFAIK - As far as I know
BRB - Be right back
BTW - By the way
FWIW - For what it's worth
IBTL - In before the lock (NOTE: Not recommended to use - simply report the post)
IIRC - If I remember correctly
IMHO - In my humble opinion
IMO - In my opinion
J/K - Just kidding
LOL - Laugh out loud
LMAO - Laughing my *** off
ROTFLMFAO - Rolling on the floor laughing my f**king *** off (many variations)
TGO - ThirdGen.org
TTT - To the top (NOTE: Used to "bump" a thread back to the top after not receiving any responses. Please do not "bump" threads less than 24 hours old)

Technical Acronyms
A4 - Automatic 4 Speed
AFPR - Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
BBC - Big Block Chevy
CAI - Cold air intake
CAT - Catalytic Converter
CC - Cubic Centimeters
CFI - Cross fire injection
CFM - Cubic Feet Per Minute
CID - Cubic Inches Displacement
DOHC - Double Over-Head Cam
ECM - Electronic control module
EFI - Electronic fuel injection
FWD - Front Wheel Drive
HO - High Output
HP - Horse Power
IAC - Idle air control
MPFI - Multi port fuel injection
NA - Naturally aspirated
NOS - Nitrous Oxide System
N2O - Nitrous Oxide Gas
PROM - Programable read only memory
RAII - Raim Air Hood II
RA - Ram Air
RPM - Revolutions Per Minute
RPO - Regular production options
RWD - Rear Wheel Drive
SBC - Small Block Chevy
SC - Supercharger
SFC - Sub Frame Connectors
SOHC - Single Over-Head Cam
SPID - Servie parts identification decal
STAT - Thermostat
STB - Strut Tower Brace
TB - throttle body
TC - Turbo charged
TBI - Throttle body injection
TPI - Tuned port injection
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
TT - Twin Turbo
WB - Wonder Bar
WOT - Wide open throttle
60' - Sixty Foot Time


GTA - Gran Turismo Americano
TA - Trans Am
TTA - Turbo Trans Am
LT1 - 4th Gen 5.7L V8 - used in Formulas and TA's (1993-1997)
LS1 - 4th Gen Aluminum 5.7L V8 (1998-2003)
ZZ4 - GM's most popular 350 cid crate motor

 

Here is a link that describes how to test the fuel pressure. It is for a V8, but the same procedure is used for a V6 MPFI. The shrader valve on the V6 is on the top of the engine near the distributor behind the plenum.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...sure-test.html

 

Damn bro great list. Hopefully you already had it and copy and pasted. That's a hella Lotta typing.

 

Thank you all. checked the pressure, it is only about 17 PSI... Yeah , that could be the problem xD

 

I stole the acronyms/abbreviations from this and a number of other sites. Then started adding stuff as I found it. Yes, it is stored on my computer as a Word file; just copy & paste. Hope you found it useful.

 

So, it is likely the fuel pump or FPR (fuel pressure regulator). However, you might want to wait through the weekend to see if anyone else suggests some other things that might cause low pressure. A lot of forum participants have more time to check and respond to posts during the weekend.

FYI - A mechanic buddy and I disagreed. He thought my low pressure was the fuel pump & I thought it could be the FPR. We cut the hole in the floor & installed a new fuel pump. Then found it was the FPR. I'm a crappy sort of mechanic and he makes the right diagnosis 99% of the time. But, both parts were original on a 140,000 mile car and I'm glad he helped me replace both. Better to replace a working, but old fuel pump, rather than be stranded a 100 miles out of town.

Good luck narrowing your diagnosis.

 

The right way to see if its the fp or fpr is to take out the fuel filter and put your gauge on the feed side. If your pressure is 17 there then its pump. If NOT. its fpr. easy.


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Oh another one for the list

YOLO- you only live once ( being currently overused in social networks)

 

Yolo ruined my whole generation. >< stupid young money.


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I checked the FPR, dismentalled it from the fuel rail and check it , the membrane looks great , it looks great all allround.
Then I disconnected the return fuel line and started the engine , no fuel was going thru that line , so I am pretty sure the FPR is ok... off to take the fuel tank out and check the fuel pump...


P.S.You guys are awsome... GREAT GREAT GREAT HELP !!!

 

Now correct me if I'm wrong. Isn't fuel supposed to flow through the return line? Like 80% is unused. If there's no fuel coming out of your return that is kind of a problem ijs.


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i think it should , but with this low pressure , i guess it doesnt flow.

 

Before you drop the tank. Check fuel pressure at the filter !


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Not going to happen!!! LOL

 

Lol everytime I see yolo in a text I wanna slap the **** outta someone.

 

Just to let everyone know, the problem is solved.

Took the tank off, and the fuel pump was really small , connected to the main fuel line with some decomposing rubber line .. found a SPARE PART FIREBIRD V8, cut the hole and took the fuel pump off ..the fuel pump was twice the size...

installed the whole part with the fuel pump , fuel metering parts and then tried to measure the pressure : 45 PSI. Cranked the engine , WORKS LIKE A CHARM...

AWSOME.

THANK YOU A LOT PEOPLE!!!!

Will post the pics of the car soon...

 

Glad you found and fixed the problem. Looking forward to your pics.