KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

Please let me know if I am missing anything from a simple bolt to use what timing chain upgrade, what oil pump, needs to be CA smog legal, daily driver so HP gain for loss of mpg is a NO GO.

California 3.4 complete build for dummies 2.8/3.1 to 3.4 level 1:

3.4 block stock (160hp)
Use 2.8/3.1/3.4 gen 1 iron heads port and polish. (165hp)
Hone 3.4 block .___ to what exactly? (170hp)
1.52 or 1.6 rockers .. Pushrods $help$ (175hp)
{fiero valve covers} clearance
{water pump which 1 stock?}
{replace timing chain stock? Or}
{Pistons which 1s are best}
Aluminum fly wheel too much hassle leave alone
+already have 2.5 dyno max exhaust
+aluminum drive shaft
+dual cai snorkel 2 K&N's
3.4 fuel injectors what lbs ?
Fasteddi burns me a chip for tuning (the best)
Aldl cable and moates chip connector unit


I feel like I should be right at 180hp with a great reliable engine

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

For the water pump just run a stock one. If you want to underdrive it slightly, throw on a pulley from a 3400 or 3500 water pump (what I did).

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

1. There is a difference between a bore and a hone... Honing is done after boring to clean up the mess. The boring is where the cylinders are actually made oversize.
2. Leave the pushrods alone.
3. Stock water pump, timing set, and what parts are already in the short block (rotating assembly and oil pump but DO replace the pump screen). You don't need to spend $500 on pistons or $$$ on a high-flow oil pump. And stock fuel injectors.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

My stock 100k mile pistons work fine and have for my turbo build. I feel that there is no need for you to get forged items on that engine. If the cylinders are bad then hone them or bore and hone them, else then that if you want new pistons and stuff like that stay away from forged stuff as its not nessasary for what your doing. IMO

Project 3.4 Camaro

Going to take a cam and or headers+high flow cat to get 190 out of it imo.(though idk if that will fit into CA smog laws) Ditto on not needing pistons, unless you are doing a full rebuild and find the bores are out of spec, and bore the block, in which case just get hypereutetic.

KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm doing a full rebuild I need new pistons.. What's hypereutetic ? And I wanna do a 260 cam from delta but they can't tell me if its smog legal or not I called already they said they don't know.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

I think there's almost no chance anything you do to the engine would be legal in CA. Even a completely stock sway may not be easy to get certified. It costs a lot to get certification from CARB and there isn't the demand for V6 stuff to make it worth while. They only headers that fit are only certified for the 2.8 so not even legal on the 3.1 or 3.4. Getting caught or not is another issue. I'm looking to pass the smog check in September then it's play time for at least 2 years.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Is n20 legal in cali? Stock engine could handle a 50-75hp wet shot with ease and it would keep the car stockish with a hellof a jolt.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

The 3.4 new in 1995 only got 17MPG, I'd be surprised if he got more than 20 without a turbo.

KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

Dude your so right !!! Omg I'm getting my car smogged in 1 month

I'm going gen3 heads please some1 email ill buy gen 3 al or 3500 top end parts

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Don't think so. You can only make changes that are allowed and not much is allowed.

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

That number has to be waaaay off. Maybe it was constantly being floored during the test?? My LT1-swapped Firebird easily got 24 MPG during daily driving and probably had nearly twice the power.

I'd be shocked if you couldn't get 30 MPG out of a 3.4 with the right gearing.

Edit: weight reduction helps with mileage too
Also, adding a turbo inevitably means WORSE fuel economy, since the turbo is essentially a restriction when it's not boosting, and when it's boosting you should be at 11.5-12:1 AFR which obviously is bad for fuel economy.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Doubtful you'll pass smog testing that way...

1. No AIR pump.
2. No EGR. Unless you drill a hole in the primary tube before you weld or otherwise connect the transfer tube between the exhaust and plenum. But, then, the 3500 and other post-96 EGR parts are NOT compatible with ours that are either all-open or all-closed, not PWM (pre-90). Your 90-92 EGR valve ONLY works either with the early pre-96 intake plenum OR with a rather expensive adapter.
3. You'll be tuning it yourself or with help, and whomever is doing it has to be pretty good at it to get the AFRs consistantly in line enough to pass smog. And that could take a while.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Not even close in CA. Has to be all original equipment etc. etc. It's not just about the actual emissions. Even if you made your car have zero emissions, if it wasn't CARB certified it would be illegal. Remember in CA your cat is now registered with the state.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Why do you guys stay in cali?? Just kidding! But i cant believe how tight they are on there emmsions out there. Its a good thing i suppose but sometimes seems so strick to someone who has never had to pass a emmisions test before.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Work mainly. The emissions thing isn't only about what comes out of the tail pipe. Ultimately it's to force older cars off the road so the state can collect the sales tax and higher annual vehicle fees. The rules vary in different areas too. I'm in the SF Bay area and it's a really strict zone. I think in other parts the smog check is only done when the vehicle ownership is transferred. We're just about to get massive new restrictions on off road stuff too. The only thing you can do is try not to get caught. When I look at the cars at auto-x meets I'd say way more than 1/2 are not really street legal.

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

What I find mind-boggling is that even if you make your car produce LESS emissions and install a better, cleaner car, it could be illegal. A lot of mods that produce more power will also reduce fuel consumption as well.

KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

Oh I was saying I get my car smogged and then I'm not gonna get checked let's hope for at least 2-3 years so I might as well go ***** out

Gen 3 alu heads
Ported polished
Headers

KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

Can I use a 1999 3.4 olds engine ?

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

You can but you need to make new mounts as the FWD block has different mount bosses.

KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

my machine shop says he can get me a set of alu heads that will work for my 3.4 build.

i wont have to change my computer or anything correct?

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

You will need to make changes to the bin (file/code in the ECM) to support DIS ignition, since the aluminum heads require the FWD intake that does not allow for space for a dizzy.

Besides, why would you go through the trouble of increasing the engine's capability and then leave a lot on the table by trying to run off stock programming?

KG427KG427

iTrader: (1)

can you explain more..



these heads are going to be custom... so i might not have a space issue but if i change my dizzy will i run into cali smog issues

project89

iTrader: (1)

there are no custom aluminum heads , they will be off a fwd engine , and the distributor will not fit

the only way to use a distributor with aluminum heads is to use the gen 1 intake like this one that sucks , and dont match up to the 3400/3500 heads ( u can modify them with lots of welding though )






or start builing ur own intake

project89

iTrader: (1)

its not cheap nor easy

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Even with lots of work, the flow to the #6 cyl would be so restricted it's not worth fitting the dizzy.

I cut one of my lowers out one time just to see how much exactly it would take to fit a dizzy with a genIII lower. By the time the #6 runner was re-sealed the runner would be almost completely blocked.

You'd have to make a comepletly custom lower, that moved all of the runners, or at the very least the #5 and #6 runners to keep them as open as possible.

More work than it's worth, when swapping to DIS on a 3.4 bottom end is so easy. There are ECMs and/or bin files (depending on which ECM you have now) that will run the DIS without issue out of the box. An existing bin file could be modified to run DIS as well.

Either way, learn to tune the ECM, otherwise what's the point in doing the work?

There were aluminum heads that were a direct replacement for the genI heads, but they were aftermarket and I have not seen any for many years due to the extremely limited production of those heads. They are also not much of an improvement over the genI iron heads anyway.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i havent cut apart a gen 3 lower yet but if u cut it in half up the middle then layed the sides in a milling machine im sure u could get a nice set of flanges for the heads and just make an aluminum base plate.

but boy that is a ton of work and money if ur not doing it urself to keep the distributor when like u said just swap the dis on

only way i see it worth it is if u want to build a really nice intake for it for high rpm or a ltr intake for low end , other wise the stocker will be plenty for 95% of the ppl out there