Ok so I'm new to this forum. I love it and thanks to everyone that uses it it's just amazing how much info is here. Now to what I need to ask. I have a 1991 Firebird v6 3.1. I have put on a rigged cold air intake and I was wondering what the penalties and flaws would be to not having the MAF sensor plugged into it. I have it plugged into the stock box, but that's not connected to my intake itself. So should I run it directly into intake? If so how? The stock connector is too short to fit up to where intake is and I don't really know how to get it plugged into it. Also the female connector to MAF sensor is unable to be pulled out (with little effort) from the stock box so I cant just yank it out. Anyone had similar problem and fixed it? Help/suggestions appreciated thanks!

 

 

 

 

That last one shows where the MAF sensor is now. Plus the stock airbox w/o filter in it.

 

I don't see a MAF in any of the pictures you've shown ...

I'm not 100% certain , and if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me , but I thought that by 91 and 92 the V6 cars were using MAP only ...

And at the risk of sounding like a mean old fart ;

Put the goddamn factory intake back correctly on the car and knock off the crap with the boy racer parts !!! I can ASSURE you that your car isn't going to go ONE BIT faster with what you've done , and in fact with the driveablity issues your gonna create notwithstanding , I'll bet it goes SLOWER now that the ECM is missing one of it's most vital sensors (if , in fact , there really IS a unplumbed MAF kicking around under there somewhere)

People who play with intake modifications need to be versed enough in the OTHER things needed to see any benefit from the increased airflow . Just hanging some chrome bling with no attention to "the rest of the story" is the single biggest mistake I see when people mess with these cars .

 

Oh , and , BTW ,

That is NOT a "cold air intake" , and in fact , it's now a HOT air intake , thanks to it being right in the airflow of the 220 odd degree radiator that's right in front of that thing you have hanging off of your upper plenum .

The ORIGINAL system drew in cold air from the RH fender area , air that was not heated by the radiator .....

 

Actually you have installed a WARM air intake which will reduce power but might improve fuel economy slightly.

init4fun has some good points for you, you might want to listen.

 

Apparently you added this while I was typing mine up

 

Hi Odie ,

I guess I came on a bit strong to the new guy , and to the OP I really didn'yt mean for my post to sound so , well , Mean .

Welcom to TGO , and YES , you have found the right place for all your car's info . Just do yourself the favor of researching ANY modification you decide to undertake so that you can cover ALL of the aspects of that modification correctly . After all , what good is increased airflow , if the fuel is not increased accordingly ? It's the little things that matter , and the guys here are great for educating you on what's what .

PS , don't forget , that between sticky threads and a quick search here and there , just about every question WRT these cars has likely been covered already . Sure , discussion is always nice , but for quick answers , a quick search is usually all it takes

 

Also to note, there is a MAP sensor mounted on your firewall. Your car has no MAF sensor.

 

welcome to the family

and yes these guy are quick to jump at ya sometimes LOL and yes you are in the right place there is way to much info about every aspect on these cars

 

That sensor in the stock air box is an intake air temperature sensor. It probably won't make a huge difference but it's obviously best to have it plugged in, especially since the air going to the engine is probably quite a bit warmer than what the sensor is seeing.

IMO the 3.1 top end doesn't breath enough at least unported to benefit at all from a filter with increased flow. However since warm air is less dense than cold air, like previously mentioned you may gain fuel economy IF you relocate the IAT sensor.

It should be easy to extend the wires and weld on a bung for it to your intake pipe. It's 3/8" NPT thread IIRC. (So you will need a bung and about a 1/2" hole). To extend the wires you can use metal quick connectors with heat shrink if you don't have access to a soldering iron

 

Alright, alright, alright. I'll throw the stock tubes back on. I have to buy a new air filter though since when I bought it it was full of leaves and caked dirt/dust. I changed it to this because of that. Plus it was like this on my old car and on my old car I used the... I feel like I called it the wrong thing but the air flow sensor going into intake. So it didn't lag when shifting. That was a problem I had in old car w/o sensor in and I can tell it does it with this car. I don't know why but oh well. I'll pull the bling shat off. =) Thanks guys.

 

Yes you have a speed density car there. No MAF sensor just that map sensor (manifold absolute density/barometric) on your pass fire wall with a 3 prong (green) connector. Be sure to extent the intake air temp sensor that was on the can that the air filter was in before and make sure its connected well. With out that on good you may see rough driving, idling, and poor gas mileage.

Here's what your really need to make the intake system look nice and actually pull in cooler air or a warm air intake system. This is off a MAF thirdgen car. Pre 1990. But the bad thing is that it WONT fit a firebird.......

 

only if you take air drectly from OUTSIDE the car will it make a "difference".