Hello, I have been trying to source some headers at last, I could not see the thirdgen pacesetters listed but the 4th gen were there in stock. I was told by the shop they would not fit my car. Is this right?
I thought the third and fourth gens had the same floor, I know they have the same heads. Why would they not fit? Anybody know ?

 

My guess is do to the different designs in the k- members which is very different. the 4th gen engines are also set farther back in the engine bay and are more cramped.
these are the ones you want. made for 3rd gen 2.8 camaros and firebirds.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ps...make/chevrolet

 

Ah ok thanks so the y pipe wil be alittle different then. No one has them in stock, but ive found that pacesetter will still make them for me to order. Actuall might cause my self some hassle but save a lot of money and get the obx s10 blazer headers , cheaper and made of stainless I think will be worth the assache . Still deciding .........

 

No, it's not that the 3.4 is any farther back, it's really not, the real issue is how the front subframe tapers in the 3rd gen. So the Y-pipe must be different. The S-Blazer stuff will probably hang way too low, and still create problems with clearing the firewall and probably be aimed at the subframe rails.

 

I have seen pictures of the s10 obx stuff, cant remember who it was, one of the longtimers I think it was close to the firewall but that was it. Ill have to search again.

 

s10 longtubes will need to be modified , i cant rember whats needs to be done but iirc it wasnt to bad to do

 

hi, I havnt been here for so long , I checked my messages and saw bl85c sent one with a pic on the long tubes, I think I am leaning towards this route, may even consider dual again, for the price difference between the obx and pacesetters, even though the pacesetters should drop in nothing ever does, they both will need work and the obx are much cheaper and stainless, think I will just have to go with them. With some work I could cross from drivers side nr the box by the looks of it, before I run out of room with the torque arm. Dam the stock obx cross pipe might even work ?!

 

Someone tried this a long time ago and found out that the pass(?) side header hits the firewall before it comes down and goes under the car, they will not work without modifications. If you search the V6 board, you should find something about this. You may have to go back about 10 yrs or so, since that's about when the pacesetters were made for our cars initially. There was a member who had his car used by pacesetter as a guinea pig. I was like the 3rd person or so on here to buy them once they came out for our cars, and loved them. Guess the demand wasn't enough though, they discontinued them a few years ago.

 

Thanks for the info, ive picked up some s10 mids.
Ill repeat what I said earlier, pacesetter will still make the headers for our 3rd gens. They are made to order, so no stock is held.
The headers I recieved have the air pipe holes which is a bit of a pain , mainly as they drop into the pipes, I will do some work here before the install. The flanges are impressivly thick !

I would like to know what everone uses for header bolts, I will buy a new set.

 

This is the worst air pipe.

 

Ive just checked the flanges with a felpro metal gasket, everything seems to line up pretty good :-)

 

How well do the OBX headers fit the car? I almost bought a set for myself. A friend had them in his S10 and you really can't beat the value/price. And they look great haha.

 

Hopefully I will let you know this week. They are mid length so should be alright, im expecting to mod the y pipe in some way. The y pipe has about 4" of movement sliding onto the collectors so there is movement there too.

 

Drivers side headers, the old one is horrid having gas going in two different dirrections then meeting ugg



Old t piece and new smooth coupler.

 

Just FYI when my friend put these in his S10, y-pipe fitment was awful. He welded a flex section into the y-pipe so that it could actually be installed.

 

Hi, thanks yeah, due to the different chassis we are fully expecting to cut up and reweld and fab up the y pipe parts to route the pipe somewhere sensible. It literally chucked it down 2mins after that sunny shot so I didnt get much else done today .

 

any updates?

 

Passenger side staight in.





Drivers collector needs reworking to clear clutch slave.

 

I am however not sure where I want the collector to end up so im working backwards just working out routing between box cross member and chassis. Hopefully it will be well tucked up when finished.

 

Doing a HTOB conversion might mean not having to rework the drivers side header.

 

Htob?

Getting the first bit tacked up, finally get the car up on stands today so I can get under and get this exhaust built up !
Lucky being a v 6 and smallish pipe im hoping this will sit between the floor and trans cross member, well tucked up there..........





Two pipes meet before cross member, over that then out where the frame ends into the floor section for the cat, im not running a cat though so some sort of muffler there before it goes towards the rear and out the side.

 

HTOB=hydraulic throwout bearing

 

Ah thanks ill look it up, tbh its no real trouble on that collector, ive got a new piece coming just needs to point in the right direction, there is room it just went the wrong way. I did not want to take away the original welds on the three pipes to the original collector, so I am taking it back and positioning the new piece on the end. Keeps the original structure and less welding work too.

 

Keep us updated i wanna get SS headers but those are the only ones available. I have fab skills i just wanna have everything before i do it.....can't have my car down more than a weekend

 

I have real limited time at the mo and hols soon. Need to get going when I get back !
Where do you intend to route the exhaust ? You could quite easily sort chop change fab up do something with the collector then straight it down to the axle to get it going, then work on it after, if you picked up some bends to get from one side to the other and have easy access under neath you could get it all fabbed up and join the old back system at the hanger on the end of the tranny.
I have had to order some bits as I went along because I was not first sure how that collector would have to go but being as the down pipes bend the wrong way before the collector I have now pretty much removed it to start from scratch, it seems if it all went in line with the down pipes it would never have been a problem.
I was looking at the v8 true duals thread as there is lots of fabup ideas and pictures of under our cars which I found hard to find anywhere else. Its worth a look too.

 

You can see where it just needed to go straight down and not do that little turn.

 

Oh yeah you will need to possibly do something with the oil sensors, on mine theres two and one was in the way, I have a stubbie version of a v8 that should work. Might be just my car though, there was from the block a brass 90 t piece for the two sensors. Im sure theres many ways round this just something to be wary of.
I guess one is fuel pump relay bypass and one is the guage.

 

When i did my swap i put a 90 in like you did....to tell you the truth i was gonna do a side exit true dual setup.
I have had that on all my vehicals and i have a some boomtube pipe left over from my latemodel

 

Just buy em mate and go for it, hopefully you can see where the collector needs to be, if I was going to start again I would just cut the oem collector off, cut the tubes back and reweld it.