How much would it be if i took my car to a garage and got a new egr put in?? would it be easy to do it myself or no??

 

EZ

 

when i had my 91RS i had to take it to a shop to replace the egr (at the time i didnt have the tools to do the job). it was a complete ripoff having it done there. its alot cheeper and ez enough to do it urself.

 

All ya need is a 10mm wrench.
Gasket in a tube (to rebuild gaskets)
The part.
ARE YOU SURE THE HOSE TO THE EGR SOLENOID IS NOT BAD?
Mine was.
Underside.
That code went away after that.

 

could it be my intake..once the car warms up it bucks and is about to stall when i'm at a light

 

Like Karl said I would check the hoses first. If it was the EGR it would most likly do it when you tried to start the car. Thats how mine went out. I couldn't even start the car with out holding the gas pedal down.

Depending on the year of your the EGR could either be cheap or expensive. I belive the '90 - '92 Camaros all used the digital EGR valve and they cost about $200.00 brand new, or $100.00 from a scrap yard that will yank and test it for you. Before '90 they used the vaccum operated EGR and they were MUCH less expensive.

 

ya i have an 88 and it's vacuum and i've checked the vacuum line that goes to it and it looks to be in perfect shape..so that would be the EGR..is there a way i can test it without any tools to see if it is the EGR or not..i don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks on somthing that's not wrong..my funds are limited if you know what i mean..thanks

 

Yeah,

reach under the EGR valve with your finger and press up on the if it goes up and comes back down it is working correctly.


I would also check the rest of your vaccum lines. A broken or brittle vaccum line can cause a bad idle problem.

 

where is the egr vavle...

 

on top of the passenger side exhaust manifold.There is a metal tube that comes from the plenum follow it to the egr on top of the exhaust manifod.

 

It looks like a UFO.
Remove it and poke underside. Remove the carbon build up and keep at it.
IT may work.
Drop a bit of oil on the shaft.

 

I thought you were selling the car and getting an '84 Mustang? Congrats on staying with the f-body! If you didn't know where the EGR valve was, you might not have have checked the correct vacuum line. Bypass the thing first before swapping it. Remove the vac line from the top, and plug it with a wooden golf tee (or screw or something). Then drive around.

My EGR would stick open randomly after the car warmed up (since warm car = EGR operation allowed by the computer). I pulled the vac line and stuck a golf tee in there until I can replace the EGR valve, which will probably happen over my week off of work.

Like BitchnRS said, when your car starts stumbling, pull over on a side road, put the car in park, and pop the hood. As the engine has it's "fit", check the underside of the EGR valve. The diaphrapm should be right at the bottom of the valve- not stuck in an "up" position. Don't burn your fingers, or get your clothing caught in the fan belt...

 

I was going to buy it but instead i drove around my 67 but everyday when i came in the driveway i saw "little red" (my car) just sitting there and i knew what was wrong with it i though and i just would random start it up...so last week i started it up and i'm like f*ck it i'm driving it so i took it out to get on the gas and i've driven it since...now i know where the line is that if u unplug it the engine chokes..and i took that off and she was coughing so i should plug that with a tee...now when u say don't burn yourself or don't get your clothes caught tells me that i'm sure i'd do that hahahaha......by the way the sticker ran out in July..ahah NIIICE

 

i must ahve used the wrong hose..i unplugged the one behind where the 2.8L is on the top..can't think of names right nwo i'm on 27 hours no sleep

 

Yeah you will want to plug the end of it. If you don't you cause a major vaccum leak and it will caugh and sputter on you. Doing this will cure your EGR problem while you wait for money or time to do it. Also it is a good diag. to make sure it is the EGR valv and not some other hidden problem.

 

which do i plug the hose or the metal thing the hose goes into??

 

First you want to locate the correct vaccum line. Once you have found go a head and shove anything that will block the vaccum hose off into it. Just make sure you can pull it back out when you need to.

I have attached a pic of the 3.1L engine that shows the digital EGR, but the vaccum EGR is located in the same place. I couldn't find a picture of the 2.8L engine.

 

So THAT'S where the EGR is! Nothing to contribute to this post..just happy that I learned something new. Carry on!

 

i went to take off a hose off the egr and if broke off!! WTF is that crap!!! now if that's not the right hose i am so assed out!!!!

 

It's kinda normal. After 10 or so years the rubber vaccum and plastic hardlines tend to get brittle and break pretty easy. When I first got my car I went out a bought a small spool of vaccum hose and replaced every one. My car ran so much better after doing that. Also you can repair the plastic hard lines with a small piece of rubber vaccum line. Just slip it over the broken part. A long with fixing the EGR prob you might as well spend 30 or so min. fixing the vaccum lines you can only benifit from doing it.

 

Here's a clear shot of a mechanical EGR on a 85 2.8.

One of the donor cars I considered. From what I've learned over past months, I'm glad I grabbed the 87.

 

Since I'm in the mood for showing off pics, and someone couldn't find pics of a 2.8l engine. here's the 87 engine I used, You can't see the EGR well.

I wish I still had that camera to show off what I did to my '83.

 

and the line that i busted was the one closest to the alternator in that pic....would i plug the line itself or where it went into the EGR?

 

You plug the line. This will keep a vaccum leak from occuring. You should be set after doing that. Just don't try to pass emission testing with it like that.

What this will do is keep the EGR from opening and allowing the exhuast back into the intake.

What is most likly happening is the EGR will open when it should but when it is told to close it gets stuck open and when you come to an idle your car will sputter and / or die becuase of to much exhuast in the intake charge.

Sence the line broke so easily you may want to try and replace it. The EGR it's self may be just fine, but the hose may have had enough cracks to cause a poor vaccum. This would cause the same symptoms. Like I said before these plastic hardlines and rubber hoses have pretty much seen thier day and should be replaced.

 

To check if you hose is cracked you could go buy a 4ft. long hose that is 5/16 inch thick and use it as a stethsescope. You should hear a hissing sound. That's what I do to check all the hoses. But when I put a lot of money into my bird this summer I'm just going to change them all to new ones and new clamps. For the importance they play in engines for what little they cost, I'd just get all new hoses.