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Ok so i have done a sure fire replacment motor all new seals top to bottom i replaced dizzy wires plugs o2 ignition coil south bay injectors. New ac comp. Smog delete also pulled the egr stuff but left the solenoid plugged in. Intake is ported alil for gasket matching newish tps last year and a half
Ok so when i first start the car it runs fine but when the engine starts to bring the rpms down the miafire starts. Will make video
Drives fine above idle but sitting in park n r d it misfirs
Checked for vacuum leaks? Make sure all the lines are hooked up, and get a spray bottle with water and spray around the intake gaskets, injector bases, etc. Vacuum leaks are made worse at idle. May not be the problem but would be good to verify. Verified the timing with a timing light? Are the injectors you put in the same flow rate as the stockers?
Only if you significantly increased air flow. If you only mildly ported it I wouldn't expect this much misfiring. If you spray the gaskets etc with a squirt bottle you should hear a sort of slurping noise if it's got a leak, and the engine might even out. Getting it on the coil or distributor shouldn't cause any issues as long as the boots are in good shape. DIY spark plug wires are fine as long as you have good crimps on the boots and they aren't resting on headers. Could always double check the firing order is correct as well, I know that when I first put my engine together I swapped two and didn't even notice until I was out driving.
Ok so if i spray the plug wires and it jumps bolt of lightning comes out thats bad . going out to the car soon to check for vac leaks and spray the plugs and wires. If the plug wires are good nothing will happen.
Ok so i spayed the plugs ,wires coil and dizzy all vac lines nothin
but i think i have a short between map sensor and firewall.
Facing motor back right ...the wire harness behind the head
could hear a sizzle car started running bad and died
Actually got codes finally. 33 and 34. So ima chase wires in the a.m.
Was removing my egr and smog pump a bad idea
And since i did what would i have to do
Sysmtoms are getting worse
Will that 50 chip fix the egr and smog pump delete
Ok so brand new motor from surefire. Called and asked if valves were set to spec before they send it they said yes
i have not adjusted valves 300 miles since start up
Ok so recap
Misfire no acceleration it also backfired in the intake today
codes 33 and 34
Sprayed motor with pump up coulndnt find any leaks soaked everything
or jumping of ignition system
tested map found grond and 5v ref but could find computer signal
is there a way to test injectors with the harness connector in front of motor and how
Really losing it with this goin crazy........ I can make videos if it will help any of u
Was removing my egr and smog pump a bad idea
And since i did what would i have to do
Sysmtoms are getting worse
Will that 50 chip fix the egr and smog pump delete
Ok so brand new motor from surefire. Called and asked if valves were set to spec before they send it they said yes
i have not adjusted valves 300 miles since start up
Ok so recap
Misfire no acceleration it also backfired in the intake today
codes 33 and 34
Sprayed motor with pump up coulndnt find any leaks soaked everything
or jumping of ignition system
tested map found grond and 5v ref but could find computer signal
is there a way to test injectors with the harness connector in front of motor and how
Really losing it with this goin crazy........ I can make videos if it will help any of u
Injector pulse ? Can be checked with a noid light.
Output from the map to the ecm is that the wire you can't locate on the map ?
Or at the 1227730 ecm ? F15 light green
Not sure what chip your referring too but a memcal can be reprogrammed to disable the egr and air pump etc.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 07-26-2017 at 09:09 PM.
Juat cleared computer did a restart idles like crap but dosent die. Misfire no codes
remember brand new motor new sb injectors dizzy pluggs wires new fpr new coil new battery new alternator timing seems fine all new 300 miles ago also spayed the crap out
The jumpy tach is an indication of a secondary ignition issue.
> timing seems fine
Has it been checked/set on a warm engine with the EST/BYPASS connector open? Set it to 10* BTDC.
What is the do-hickey mounted where the MAP is supposed to be mounted? It can't be good for the MAP to be lying on top of the coil. It may even be causing ignition issues by putting pressure on the coil to distributor connector.
Two other issues not related to the misfiring is: need to put the A/C compressor rear brace back on. Otherwise the aluminum accessory bracket will break next.
Should also run an idler set up where the smog pump was removed. Otherwise with the A/C compressor engaged the belt will be flapping about causing issues. Can get an idler off another 3rd gen that didn't have the smog pump.
The dohickey is a bracket i made to hold the egr and map
and what all is secondary ignition
i still have the brackets ill get them on at my buddies house
The dohickey is a bracket i made to hold the egr and map, and what all is secondary ignition
i still have the brackets ill get them on at my buddies house
No need to keep the EGR solenoid, the ECM doesn't test for it via the electrical connections. Can get rid of it, wrap up the electrical connector pigtail, and remount the MAP as stock.
Unless the chip/tune has been changed the ECM can still throw an EGR malfunction code (with or w/out the solenoid connected).
Secondary ignition starts with the ignition coil. Then includes everything between it and the spark plugs. Cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs.
Is the ignition coil secondary tower high enough to get the wire between it and the cap snapped into place? Can cut the boot shorter if required.
Ok so i replaced the plugs and wires no difference
so i looked at the dizzy cap and rotor looked bad posting pics to see if anyone can tell me why my cap and rotor looka like this i did clean them back up and tried agian no difference so i took the dizzy to autozone to get it replaced intire dizzy
why does it look like that
Still has misfire
Oh car was running i uplugged the map sensor and no differencein running???
If u notice in the center it looks wobblie and now that ive thought for a sec it had a crap ton of play
well i get a new dizzy in the am im going to open it up infront of the and inspect it first and if its wigglie they really just need to swap the cap and rotor really. See what happens
The cap & rotor look normal after some use. Recall that there is 20-thousand volts jumping from the rotor to as cap terminal every time a spark plug fires.
07-24-2017, 05:07 PM
