Still working on this thing thats not ran since the late 90`s, nearly every part associated with the ignition system is new aside from column switch. Coil, distributor, PCM,ICM, plugs, wires cap rotor ect. Verified good fuel PSI at rail, verified good battery voltage and grounds, proved multiple wires are getting the 12v and grounds when key turn to On and start.

I get a good strong spark off the lead wire to the distributor but nothing on ANY of the other wires, all the timing marks seem to line up according to the internet and FSM. I had no change in anything once replacing entire distributor with a new one. I also have no Tach signal as if the distributor isnt acting like a crankshaft position sensor and that little voice in my head is telling me its related.

I`m utterly lost on what to look at or test now, any recommendations or advice would be helpful. Its in to good of shape to just let go to the JY or use as a donor car for parts so the only other option is to fix it. Talking with a friend of mine that has a nice 3rd gen Iroc he was telling me about the electronic spark system on some of the older 3rd gens with a standalone module but IIRC these late 3rd gens have that system integrated into the PCM? I`m unsure how to go about testing this system after reading through the manual.

 

Have you cranked the engine with the distributor cap off to make sure the rotor is actually spinning?

 

I have yes, the rotor spins when cranking or rotating the engine by hand off the crankshaft.

 

Does your rotor have the metal contact installed?


I bought a cheap rotor from autozone for a car just to get it running..... the contact was missing.

 

Yes it has that piece, Ive accumulated several and they all have it.

As far as the FSM goes I was able to follow the cranks but no start flowchart and I`m left at basic HEI problem.

 

So what happens when you replace the distributor with another one? Sounds like this one isn't doing the thing.

 

No change when swapping distributors even with the new ICM that came with it. I can look at the data as I crank and theres no RPM reading even though I can test for the reference signal off the pick up coil. It does this with either the factory PCM and the replacement hooked up. I will try again tomorrow to be sure but I also think I tried it with a different eprom chip with the same 4 letter code as well.

I appreciate the replies, I figured more heads coming up with any ideas is better than me coming up clueless. Thinking about it now I shouldve tested the ICM wires for continuity, maybe theres a damaged spot I cant see between it and the PCM.

 

Yeah if the coil is good, and two different distributors don't work, I would start investigating the wires going to the ICM.

 

IDK what I did different today but lo and behold theres spark out of #1 and #2 wires. Solid spark about once per revolution with the same intensity as the lead wire, confident to say I have good spark now.

Still isnt firing up though so I`m looking into the tachometer not functioning. While Ive got the engine apart enough to get that dang coil bracket off (really GM?) I`m just going to pull the injectors and test them at the bench.

 

Does it make any noise if you hit it with some starting fluid?

 

I had tried starting fluid before, yes. It did seem to help get it closer to starting but I couldn`t constantly spray into the TB and crank at the same time.
All the other similar threads like this you guys usually go to the injectors as being a common issue and it sat for so long I shouldnt expect them to be good.