Well, yesterday, I replaced the 'ol EGR valve. It wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be; the 10mm bolts loosened up pretty quickly. I didn't even need a breaker bar on 'em - good thing, because a socket wouldn't fit on the bolt (EGR too tall). I used a 6 point 10mm wrench, and some PB Blaster on them. I used a GM EGR valve; the Borg Warner unit from Pep Boys had two things about it I didn't like. First, the bottom wasn't wide open like on GM valves; you couldn't feel (or see) the diaphrahm! They had a bunch of little vent holes instead. Second, the vacuum input was in the wrong spot! The EGR valve was rotated so the vacuum line came out the back right- and I have the formed plastic vacuum lines. I would've had to snap my existing vacuum line and lead a rubber hose to the EGR- yeah, it would've worked, but looked like hell. Oh, speaking of looks, the BW one was brass, this GM one is painted gloss black. The GM parts counter guy suggested that the BW one might've been a "universal" EGR, just screwed onto the appropriate base.

I also did some prep for my smog test (due very soon, oops!)... thus, the reason for the EGR replacement! I don't think a golf tee plugging the vacuum line would've looked too good, eh? Part of my prep involves removing, cleaning, & regapping the spark plugs.

Well, looks like I won't be using Splitfires again. Seems that the MSD box is killing them! The last batch I pulled had the center electrode worn down in the "back", nearest the outer electrode. The "front" part of the center electrode was normal! These plugs are showing the same characteristics. I guess the Splitfires are okay for a normal HEI, but can't handle the increased output of the MSD box.

So, I guess I'll be putting in regular 'ol ACDelco plugs this spring. Think I should bother with platinum? I change them every year. I never would've gone to the platinum Splitfires, since Splitfires normally outlast a regular plug, but should I do it with regular plugs?

I still have to put my stock intake back (with a new $7 Kmart air filter), clean the TB and plenum, check all my plug wires, clean the inside of the dist cap & rotor, put a bottle of "Guaranteed to Pass" in the tank, and hope for the best!

 

Damn....When I went to get smog tested back in 99, my prep consisted of making sure I had the directions to get there right.

 

Well if you would have read anything on the split fires you would have known that they are just about worthless and AC Delco ones actually work better!. Hope you loved wasting that 30 bucks!.

 

I've typed my reasons for using Splitfires so many times before, I'm not going to waste the time repeating myself- especially for someone who thinks injectors are silent. Don't you have some headers to work on?

 

Oh, and coolrims, in NJ, we've got the same test as in California now- the new dyno emissions test. I've gotta make sure I pass that thing! The only good part about it is that I only have to go once every two years. Still, I'd rather have the old tailpipe sniffer back! The stuff I do just guarantees my passing... for example- a dirty air filter will cause the CO in the exhaust to raise up, just because less O2 is getting into the engine. Making sure there's a good spark (timing (oops, gotta check that too), clean plugs, good wires, and distributor cap/rotor with no corrosion on the inside contacts) helps lower NOx's, which are caused by incomplete combustion. Now that I'm on a dyno, the EGR kicks in, which also lowers HC's.

Fun fact: Some trees emit HydroCarbons into the atmosphere!

 

Tom,

One other thing. If it has been 30,000 - 45,000 miles sence you last changed your O2 sensor replace that too. The avarage functional life span of of a none heated O2 sensor is 30,000 - 40,000 miles. At that point they tend to start getting cloged up.

OH and check your PCV valve it's a cheap part that can keep you from passing the dyno test. I accualy failed becuase of it.

 

Tom
to pass the CA test.
Make the car looks stock under the hood
CHANGE THE OIL (gas drips down, into the oil, oil gets splashed back up into the combustion chamber, spewing out more pollutants thru the exhaust pipe).
New or clean plugs
Clean air filter.
Preminum gas & a bottle of liquid Gumout.
Drive on freeway (heat up CC).
At the test WATCH THAT THEY DO NOT LIFT INSTANTLY OFF THE GAS PEDAL to lower RPMS. IF you see them do that, you failed.
That backs/loads up the pollutants in the combustion chamber then pollutant reading goes real high on idle test.
MUST SLOWLY LOWER the gas from high rpms to low to pass that part.
You'll do ok, I'll bet.

 

what are the symptoms of a crapped out o2 sensor just out of curiosity ?

 

You're considering platinum ACDelco's??? Unless you're willing to shell out $9 a piece that GM charges.........I personally would just stick to regular plugs.
I don't see the advantage of platinum plugs unless you've got like an LT1 and the plugs are a PITA to change.

 

Well then you know what you old fart Come out to Illinois and listen to Mine. I bet you do not hear CRAP from them. And go to your local weld shop if YOU want headers. The Lovely choice of "management decides.....)" Cause yes I am remaking these to make money, but that does not mean I HAVE to sell them to everyone. I have already stated that there be a limited run of 12-13 up for grabs. After that it may be a while before they are seen again.

 

Wayne,

Mainly poor gas milage can be a sign that the O2 is going out. If you bought the car used (you most likely did) and you have never changed it it's a good item to through on at your next tune up. There cheap mine cost me $7.99

Hint:

When trying to remove the O2 sensor warm the car up for 1 min or so and use a O2 sensor socket. If you don't run the car for about 1 min you will never get it off.

 

First off, I know how to weld; why would I need a weld shop? Second off, I'd rather modify the Pacesetter 3.4 headers myself then wait another 2 years before you stop whining about looking for bending dies and actually get dirty. (3.1Firebird already gave us the exact details on how he modified the 3.4's to fit his car.) Oh, and don't flatter yourself, hotshot- I wouldn't buy headers from you if you actually produced a set! Hell, I wouldn't take a set if you gave them to me for free! Thanks for the laugh! :sillylol: To think that I would buy something from YOU? Oh man. Haha! I feel bad for the guys that pre-paid for advanced orders.

I'd love to see you prove me wrong, just for the fact that people on here want headers, but I have a feeling it'll be a lonnnng time.

 

Have you guys tried the ACDelco RapidFires? Any thoughts on these?

 

I have used the rapid fires...I owuld just stick with stock ac delocs with a solid ignition system...

The rapid fires were okay, better than splitfires in my car.. Accel u-grove were okay too..

 

grab your boots guys , this $hits gettin deep in here

 

New jersys emission test is not the same as the Ca test. I know this for sure because I inspect cars everyday. In new jersey there is no visual check of the emission components except for the cat. They only open the hood to check for engine size. Jersey is a one speed test. 15mph.
There are two ways to get out of the dyno test. A set of studded tires will get you a 2500 rpm test. Metal studs and the dyno don't mix. You can also claim a low milage exemption. If you drive less than 10k in two years you can claim it. The system is supposed to verify your milage but i'm pretty sure it doesn't work. The inspector will ask you how many miles you drive and you can tell them anything you want to. There is also a drawback to this test it lowers the standards a whole lot. 100ppm Hc and .5 Co. I would get the dyno test first and only use a 2500 if it fails for nox. The best advice I can give anyone in NJ for passing is dont **** off the inspector. There are many ways the inspector can "help" the car pass on the dyno don't give him a reason not to help you. We can help your nox reading by 3-400 points. I'm speaking from experince. If you're cool with me I do everything I can to make it pass. If you're a d*ck I have no reason to help you. The Inspectors don't make the rules, but they are the ones who will loose their job if the state catches us not doing their jobs. So don't take it out on them, it may save you some $$ and a trip back. It sounds like you've prepared pretty well to pass, you probably won't have a problem

 

Really? I had heard something about the NJ standards not being exact to the California standards, but didn't think much of it. (It's still a dyno to me, that's all I notice!) Actually, my inspection sheet said something like "ASM5015 & Safety" as being the test performed. What does ASM stand for? I think the "IM" of the IM/240 test stands for Inspection & Maintainence, right?

And what's odd as compared to the first time I went; is that the first time, the mechanic clipped an induction pickup on my #1 plug wire. This time, he left the hood closed. (If I had known that, I would've left my homemade cold/ram air intake alone! I had to dig the old intake out from the basement, clean it up, put it on, what a pain.) Did the test change between 2000 and 2002?

Thanks!

 

OK here are some answers to New Jersey inspection. New jersey uses the ASM 50/15 test. I don't remember what the ASM is for. I think its Asyncronous Mode. The 50/15 stands for 50% load at 15Mph. The test can run anywhere from 35 to 90 seconds. If the car is not passing after 35 seconds it will continue to run until it passes. If it doesn't pass by 90 seconds the car will fail the emissions test. Sometimes if you get a nice inspector he will "mess up" at about 85 seconds and have to restart the test. Many cars will then pass if given the extra time. When a car is first inspected in new jersey the inspector has to get certain information to complete the test. He needs the GVWR and the engine size for the test. After the initial inspection this information is stored in the Veh. Information Database in Trenton. The next time the car is inspected the information is already there. (Inspectors are supposed to verify this information but don't always do it.) If you change engine size you need to make sure to tell the inspector. They may open the hood to check anyway but will only look at the emissions sticker which will still have your old engine size. Many can't tell between a 2.8 and a 350. It doesn't matter what mods you have done as long as the cat is still there and it passes the test. To be completely legal for an engine swap the motor has to be the same year or newer and be offered in that body style. The inspector has no way of verifying this though. Early in 2000 there were problems with the dyno and every car was getting an old idle test. The induction hook in 2000 was to tell the computer at how may rpms the engine was idling. 450-1250rpms is acceptable. Things are fixed now and you got the dyno test. They still use the clip for AWD and full time 4wd vehicles, they get a 2500rpm test. I hope that answers your ???'s. So after all the prep work did you pass?

 

WOW, thanks for all the info!!!! So my poor 2.8 was at a 50% load, eh? I guess it did alright; I did pass... barely though.

I wonder if I passed the old idle test in Jan of 2000. My mechanic was amazed at how low my numbers were (altho I never thought to get a printout). It seemed odd that my car would shoot up so high this year- unless it was due to mileage.

And yeah, this was the first time he EVER looked at the driver's side door for a sticker. I heard him say "no sticker?" and then "well, if you can get away with it, why not?" But I thought the second part was to a guy nearby complaining about his income tax... maybe it was directed towards me not having a sticker. (That door is long gone!) Actually, the emissions sticker under my hood has been gone for even longer... lets see; I'm on my third hood by now? Yep, 3rd.

Here's something: My friend told me that HIS friend told him (isn't it always that way?) that he had trouble passing once. He unhooked one of the injectors from the wiring harness. Suddenly, the car ran like crap, but supposedly passed, since the cylinder was moving "extra air" instead of unburnt fuel. I wonder if that works, or if it was just a line of BS?