Coolant leak, help please...
Coolant leak, help please...
The car's been runnin real well for a few months up till now, i've been haveing a coolant leak somewhere but i didnt know where it was coming from, and by leak i mean i would leave a streak from the front of my car to the back bumper in a few hours, but i'd only have to add water and coolant once a week, so anyway's i finally decided to get off my lazy *** and look for the leak, it seems to be RIGHT BEHIND the center puley, why? i dont know, i'm no expert in that area, maybe you fella's can help me so i can stop wasting money on gallons of coolant. TIA
Have you replaced the front pot metal connector that goes to the T/B? is a cheap peice of metal that breaks if you look at it wrong. It will leak to where you really cannot see the trail unles your under the car and it drips on your forhead. It took me 2 months to find that damn thing leaking. 7 bucks and change at the dealer.
The T/B has 2 hoses coming down. they go to a black tube, that black tube has a conncetor that goes right under the T/B into the lower manifold.
The T/B has 2 hoses coming down. they go to a black tube, that black tube has a conncetor that goes right under the T/B into the lower manifold.
10 to 1 its a water pump. Check the hoses, if ones leaking it'll be leaking on the bottom side. If you don't have one leaking, spend the $15 for a water pump and you'll be all set. In 7 years and 5 thirdgens every antifreeze leak I've had has been a waterpump.
$15? that's it? i thought everyone was always b!tch'n about how much a water pump cost to replace.....maybe that was something else. Well thnx i'll check both those things and see what it is
What else it may be.
On my 1985 version, I have two rubber hoses that go to a metal tube. Right at water pump/pulley area, also.
When I swapped engines, I had that tube crack. Welded/fixed for $5.
I got the 2 front hoses, too.
PS those hoses are dealer only item & PRE-FORMED.
The hoses were like $5 each.
On my 1985 version, I have two rubber hoses that go to a metal tube. Right at water pump/pulley area, also.
When I swapped engines, I had that tube crack. Welded/fixed for $5.
I got the 2 front hoses, too.
PS those hoses are dealer only item & PRE-FORMED.
The hoses were like $5 each.
i had a coolant leak a month ago, my uncle manages a mr.tire and he got me a new water pump for 20 bucks. and he even did the labor for me no charge... the old pump was leaking from the bearing seals and dripping slowly... i had to give it added coolant every week, make shure you watch the temperature cuz u dont want to overheat it
all hail la la :hail: :hail: :hail: :lala:
all hail la la :hail: :hail: :hail: :lala:
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Oh, yeah, the pump is cheap- the labor adds another $100 or so... just like a fuel pump- $80 for pump, $320 for labor.
Get a lifetime warranty pump, by the way. It's worth the extra $20. I had 3 pumps go out on me in a row- original died, replaced it. That one died a month later, replaced it. The next one leaked as soon as I started the car!! The current one has been running since Jan '97. Good thing I had the lifetime warranty from Pep Boys. Funny thing; the two bad pumps I got had "japan" stamped on 'em. The third one had "GM" cast into it, and was the one that worked.
[edit] Oh, duh, the leak behind the center pulley could be one of the "weep holes". There are small holes cast on the bottom of the water pump, right before the pump meets the pulley. These will drip coolant if the water pump seal takes a crap.
Use a teflon sealer on the threads (I always used blue RTV), and get a gasket scraper to scrape the timing chain cover. Be careful while scraping; the chain cover is aluminum. Don't gouge the aluminum too much. Use a gasket sealant (I use permatex red gasket sealant, in a metal can with a brush) to help seal any gouges. You brush it on the gasket, and then assemble the gasket to the pump.. the stuff is insanely sticky so it helps adhere the gasket to the pump for assembly. While you're down there, you might want to replace the lower hose anyway, since you have to drain the radiator.
I drain the radiator the "tough" way. With the car on ramps, I put goggles on (okay, I don't, but I should). I put a big drain pan on my stomach. I take a screwdriver with me, and slide under the lower rad hose where it goes to the radiator. While I balance the pan on my washboard abs
I undo the clamp that holds the lower hose to the radiator. Then I pull the hose off, and all the coolant dumps into the drainpan... I don' t have to screw with any stupid petcock that dribbles coolant all over the floor and framerails. Make sure your engine's COOL before you do this so you don't get burnt; and put goggles on!
Get a lifetime warranty pump, by the way. It's worth the extra $20. I had 3 pumps go out on me in a row- original died, replaced it. That one died a month later, replaced it. The next one leaked as soon as I started the car!! The current one has been running since Jan '97. Good thing I had the lifetime warranty from Pep Boys. Funny thing; the two bad pumps I got had "japan" stamped on 'em. The third one had "GM" cast into it, and was the one that worked.
[edit] Oh, duh, the leak behind the center pulley could be one of the "weep holes". There are small holes cast on the bottom of the water pump, right before the pump meets the pulley. These will drip coolant if the water pump seal takes a crap.
Use a teflon sealer on the threads (I always used blue RTV), and get a gasket scraper to scrape the timing chain cover. Be careful while scraping; the chain cover is aluminum. Don't gouge the aluminum too much. Use a gasket sealant (I use permatex red gasket sealant, in a metal can with a brush) to help seal any gouges. You brush it on the gasket, and then assemble the gasket to the pump.. the stuff is insanely sticky so it helps adhere the gasket to the pump for assembly. While you're down there, you might want to replace the lower hose anyway, since you have to drain the radiator.
I drain the radiator the "tough" way. With the car on ramps, I put goggles on (okay, I don't, but I should). I put a big drain pan on my stomach. I take a screwdriver with me, and slide under the lower rad hose where it goes to the radiator. While I balance the pan on my washboard abs
I undo the clamp that holds the lower hose to the radiator. Then I pull the hose off, and all the coolant dumps into the drainpan... I don' t have to screw with any stupid petcock that dribbles coolant all over the floor and framerails. Make sure your engine's COOL before you do this so you don't get burnt; and put goggles on!
Last edited by TomP; Feb 8, 2002 at 01:11 PM.
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