I was at the track today and a lot of ricers where talking smack with there high 16 high 17 second cars. I want to delete the smog stuff and the A/C before I go back along with the spare tire and rear seats.... I am confident it will run 17's with the new ignition and fuel filter gutted cat and a engine ant auto tranny that run perfect. Soon I will drop a flowmaster muffler in.
Does anyone have pics of all the smog stuff on the 2.8 and the A/C????
Thanks
David

 

I'm assuming you've seen my "Major Tuneup" post, right? Check that out while you're working on the car...

What do you need pictures of? Does your A/C system still have a charge in it?

Possible smog stuff you can remove: A.I.R. pump (if you have a manual transmission). Yep, that's it. The EGR doesn't interfere with wide-open-throttle runs, and neither does the charcoal fuel vapor canister, and neither does the PCV system. If anything, the PVC helps by keeping the engine clean.

If your A/C blows out warm air, it doesn't have a charge, and you can open the fittings without having them explode on you. But if the A/C system is still charged, I'd suggest removing the whole unit as one piece. It can be done; I've done it twice.

You remove the a/c compressor belt from the pullies. Unbolt the a/c compressor, unbolt the hold-down bracket for the accumulator (silver can on passenger side), unbolt the hold-down brackets for all hard lines & hoses, unbolt the hold-down bracet for the passenger side of the condensor (radiator-like thing in front of your car's actual radiator). Unscrew the top of the heater/evaporator box (where the lines from the accumulator go into the firewall) and remove the top. Disconnect all electrical fittings (two at a/c compressor, one at accumulator, one on high pressure line that's on your passenger side main frame rail). Put a jumper wire inside the connector from the high pressure line; otherwise, your fan will be on constantly. Tape the other two over. Then, lift out the whole system. A friend holds the compressor and one end of the condensor, while you lift out the evaporator & accumulator, and hold the other end of the condensor. You MUST plug up the hole in the heater/condensor box somehow, or (A) you'll get carbon monoxide in the passenger compartment that can put you to SLEEP while you drive! and (B) you'll have no heat.

However, this can be dangerous if you crack a line (or tear a hose) by accident, so you might want to have a shop discharge the system for you anyway. If they discharge the system, you could remove everything except for the evaporator- this makes life easier, and also prevents you from having a huge gaping hole in your heater/condensor box.

 

Well it blows really hot air and the A/C stoped blowing cold air years ago. That is more work then I thought... I think I will have a vew people in my F-body club help me out lol.
I just pulled 100 pounds out of the car so this will really help
David

 

I'm thinking about doing that too. I saw at wal-mart they this stuff thta is like a recharge thing? You plug it up to the n i p p l e of the silver can on the passenger wall. and fill it up? Do you think that will help any? I would rather not take the whole thing out if all I can do is buy a little can of recharge. Will this even help you think?

 

The thridgen f-body uses R-12. R-12 is expensive becuase they don't make it any more. You can buy a conversion kit for around $45 - $50 to convert it to R-134a. I'm going to do this in a couple of months before the really hot weather sets in.

 

If you don't have any freon, that means you have a leak somewhere. Freon doesn't just dissapear. You have to find and fix the leak before re-charging the A/C system.

 

true

and if you bring the car to a shop to get recharged they will REQUIRE you to have to leak fixed

 

Er; if there's no charge, there's much less work. Just undo all the fittings for the a/c system. Unbolt & remove the a/c compressor. Unbolt & remove the acuumulator. Remove the radiator cover panel, lean your radiator back, and lift out the a/c condensor. Remove all the hoses.

 

Tom, I will go out in a hour and try and do it and let you know how it goes.
Thanls
David

 

Wear goggles when you do it, in case there's any pressure left in the system (I doubt it though). You could also push down the valve fittings on the accumulator and the hard line on the passenger-side main frame rail; that will relieve any left over pressure... USE A LONG SCREWDRIVER. Usually tho if an a/c system has no freon left, it's also got no pressure left. When you remove it all, put electrical tape over all the open hoses, so when you store them in your garage, dust doesn't get in them. You might want to put the a/c back in someday.

 

Yea I disconected the hoses and nothing came out lol.
It is ok to completly take off the compressor and the belt right. I almost did but couldent make myself do it lol
David

 

Glad to hear there was no charge. I was so mad when I had my accident; I had a full charge of freon, nice cold air... (not that I ever used it, even on 100+ degree days, but it was nice to have)... then I had the accident, and that was it for the charge.

Yeah, you can remove the a/c compressor. Unhook the wires, and remove the v-belt. Keep the bolts that hold the a/c compressor to the bracket, and put the bolts on the a/c compressor so they don't get lost. Only problem is, you'll be like me, driving around with a stupid looking "empty" compressor bracket.

 

... Hmm you can use the Wally World conversion KIT I did after I got the leak fixed. The tech articles has the amount you need. I think its ike 32-36 OZ of the R-134? But anyway my ac blow ICE COLD now. This cost me about 35 bucks for the kit.

 

CHD,

The one I saw at Kregan was for $46. It has all new fitings and stuff you should replace when changing over. Sence most leaks are caused by worn o-rings at the fitings you will most likly fix any leaks during the conversion. One other nice thing about this kit is that it has the right stuff for my year car. Including all the little details that can be some times be left out in universal kits, but help ensure long reliable use. So I don't mind sloping out a few extra bones for it. I like to fix things once and not have to go back for an 85 cent part covered in grime.

 

I yanked out my A/C when I did the engine swap. I also changed the Air box so I could get rid of the accumulator too. Only thing is the non A/C box uses a fan with a shorter shaft so you either swap fan motors or cut down the squirrel cage (i did this as I had replaced the motor less than a year ago). My only problem is that now the fan only has 2 speeds & 3 off positions