I'm about to go buy a Code Scanner at Autozone today...$25. Says it picks up engine and...I think, transmission codes. But I'm not sure. My question is...the engine portion of this scanner, what kind of range of detection does it have? Is it gonna pick up trouble codes even when my SES light isn't on? My light only comes on periodically. Can it pick up bad sensors, such as the O2 and the TPS sensor? I just want to know if this thing is worth the $25, that's all. The scanner is for all, or most, 3rd gen Camaros (excl. the Berlinettas I think), and picks up some Saturns and other GM cars too.

 

Hey, I figured what the hell. I bought it and hooked it up. After it flashed repeated Code-12's, saying it's working ok, I got flashed a code 13, a code 41 (I think...I thought it was 40, but there is no 40 I found out) and a code 44. 2 of those deal with an oxygen sensor problem, and one has several meanings, one of which is bad tach input, which my tach is defective. Hey, I'm happy. Problem is though..the O2 sensor codes are from intermittent SES lights in memory...so I don't know whether it's just glitches, or whether the sensor(s) are really bad. I'm just going to reconnect it and re-check all the codes this evening to make sure I read all of them right.

 

I would have saved the money for other things and just used a hair pin.

 

...a hair pin? Maybe it's better that I don't try to figure this one out...

 

If you look at the ALDL connector, it's got two rows of pins. Ignore the bottom row, and just look at the uppermost row. If you connect the rightmost two pins together with a piece of wire (or hairpin or paperclip), you'll put the computer into diagnostic mode, and the SES light will flash the codes out.

That scanner won't check sensor output, and will only show you error codes that are either "current" (driving with SES light on) or codes that were stored in memory (driving, SES light comes on, then goes off).

I want to get the Diacom, from http://www.rinda.com ... I've even got a $50 386sx16 laptop just waiting around for me to buy the software. (That's $50, 3 years ago... yep, I should really buy that software, eh?)

 

So basically you're saying I paid $25 for a manual telling me how the car's computer system works, how to get it into several diagnostic operating modes, and the trouble codes... All I have to say is...argh. Well hey, it has ABS codes too! IF I HAD ABS....

 

Yeah...wellll, that sucks. A paperclip...jesus. At least I've got the code manual though. Btw..all my codes are stored, not current...I only get a blink of an SES while driving for a minute...then it either vanishes on its own, or I slow down and it disappears. And I double checked again...only a code 13 and a code 44....no code 41. Both lean engine conditions.

 

Replace your oxygen sensor then disconnect your battery for a couple of minutes to clear your codes and the give it a drive to see if the codes return. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks....now, step one...finding which little doo-hickey is the oxygen sensor..

 

The oxygen sensor should be located on the exhaust manifold below the passenger side of the car, it looks almost like a spark plug. In some cases they are hard to take off, what I did was put some liquid wrench on the threads drove a bit then used a special oxygen sensor socket to remove it. Good luck.

 

Let the car warm up first; the oxy sensor will be easier to remove when the exhaust is very warm- not burning hot, but "very warm". That's sorta like driving around for a bit, then letting the motor cool for a minute or two. Make sure you put some extra anti-seize compound on the threads of the new oxygen sensor. New sensors come with the stuff already on the threads, but extra can't hurt, and makes removal easier.

You might want to check the lower 1/2 of the y-pipe, too, if your oxy sensor's not on the manifold. Examine the oxy sensor's wire, first. Make sure that it's not shorted out to ground (melted on the exhaust).

If you decide to re-install your original oxy sensor, you MUST put anti-sieze compound on the threads!! The old stuff will be gone already, and you could get your old sensor permanently rusted inside the y-pipe bung.

I prefer to use a large, deep socket to remove the oxy sensor. I don't like using that oxy sensor socket. I've had it open up on me (since it's cut apart on one end), and wedge itself on the oxy sensor's threads. That loss of one side of the socket makes the socket really flimsy.

If the oxy sensor's bad enough, I'll whack the end off with a hammer, so all that's left in the y-pipe is a little stub with a nut on it. Then I use a regular short socket on it. & like I said, make sure the engine's hot.

Take note of how the oxy sensor wire is routed to keep it off the exhaust, and try to put it back the same way. Oh, the oxy sensor for our cars is Bosch #12014, and it's a cool fact that it's the same one as the V8's use.

 

Thanks for the thorough explanation as always, Tom. You rock. :rockon:

 

True he does have a way of saying things that most novices like us can understand, some guys( not all) here talk down to you he doesn't. I read most of his posts in fact I had a problem with my car acting weird when it would reach a certain temp he led the way turns out it was both my timing and temp sensor. If I did not say it then I'll say it now...Thanks TomP:hail:

 

Lol..yeah..he's the resident car guru/***...whichever fits, I think a bit of both. I owe him and several other, *** knows how many quarts of oil..they pointed the finger at my distributor O-ring as the cause of my leaking. Took it to an extremely honest local ma and pa garage, for $98 bucks my leak was solved...dead-on-***** accurate. I was leaking a quart every week and a half too..it wasn't a light leak. I have the horrendous drive-way stain to prove it. I'll snap a photo for you guys sometime. So, once again...praise to Tom..and to all of you on this board too. You guys are the most understanding, knowledgeable, patient, and diverse group of car people I've ever seen. Can't beat this site for advice. Thanks to all of you. There. That needed to be said.

 

*** damn thing even bleeps out the word ***...*** damnit.

 

hey tomp,

dont waste ur maney buying that diacomm stuff...
just build ur own... i did a post about a ALDL circuit that u can build ... jsut build that hardware for 5 bucks are use their free software to check all sensors in realtime and also check error codes as they are set.....

 

On RWD cars, I use a 7/8ths open or flarenut wrench. You just hit it once to loosen, then unscrew by hand. Much easier than using a socket. Only on some FWD cars is it neccesary to use a socket to reach a sensor between the motor and firewall.