I have heard alot about the 2.8 and 3.4 being turbo'd but when it comes to turbos im not exactly an expert so i was wondering of ot would be hard to find a turbo trans am engine and swap it in? and how effective would it be compaired to a v8 swap (dad wont let me because of tpi carberation change) FYI i have an 1988 model

 

you'd be further ahead to take $500 and pay a "will work for food" type to kick you firm in your ***. By the time you finish rebuilding the 2.8 or 3.1 to stand up to the stresses of force induction, you'll have spent enough to swap a V8 into your car.

 

Yea ive ruled out makin my 2.8 turbo what about a turbo trans am engine swap?

 

If turbos arnt the way to go how fast could i get the little 2.8 to go and still be cheaper than v8 swap? Is nitrous a good idea. If you cant tell I NEED HELP

 

Well, a turbo can be acomplished on a 2.8l/3.1l/3.4l, the only thing you've gotta think about is not running more than say 10lbs of boost on that stock motor. Without lowering the compression it isn't a very wise thing to do, and eventually you'll blow that little motor to bits. Swapping in a 3.8L turbo (same engine as the grand nationals and TTA's) can be done, the Grand National motor needs a set of TTA heads to make it clear the strut towers apparently though, you'd also need the complete wiring harness and sensors and whatnot....another thing is the transmission, the v6 tranny won't bolt up to that buick motor, that's why the 2004r (i think) was used. the tranny gives u the grace of an overdrive and compatibility with the engien you'd be using. hmmmmm, the problem that people have been having with nitrous is normally the ricers, and people being stupid also. Julst like the turbo setup, don't put in to much...in other words, a 2.8L/3.1L i'd definately say no more than 100hp shot...also the shot would have to be dry since we can't send a liquid NOS through our plenum (would clog it up). So, then a dry Tuned Port setup. I'd think that a Suupercharger would be simpliar to setup than the turbo...wouldn't have to worry about exaust routing and whatnot, and would give u less downtime on how long it takes to setup. And clould take the place of that ole' AC setup (who needs it anyway) :P i'll have to think of which project i'd like to take on...but first i need a second car.

 

I'm pretty darn sure the 700r4 will bolt up to the 3.8, just like the 200-4R does. I think the 200-R4 was used because of either it's gear ratios, or the way it fit in the car. But either way, the trans in your f-body now wouldn't fit the 3.8.

Oh and nitrous is always a gas.. The "wet/dry" specifies the way that the fuel flows. A wet system injects fuel thru a fuel nozzle, right next to the nitrous nozzle. And like you said, it's not the safest, because the intake's only meant to flow air, not liquids. A "dry" system will get it's extra fuel from the fuel injectors.

Keep in mind, TT2.804, there's no turbo kit for our motors. You'd either have to be good at fabrication (and not a BS'er), or have a shop do the $thousands work for you. And at that point, you might as well go with the TPI v8 swap.

Your dad won't let you touch a V8, or he won't let you put a carb'd V8 in? Why not go with TPI?

 

NO offense guys, but I feel stupider having read this thread.

Yes a 3.8 Turbo swap is possible, but I'll get to that in a minute.

First of all nitrous, whoever said something about liquid clogging up the plenum because it's a wet shot.... It's called a wet shot because gas and N20 are sprayed together basically pre-mixing it and ensuring that you don't lean out. Usually those are rated at RWHP too because of the efficiency. Dry kits just inject N20. It's up to the fuel system to deliver enough fuel...kinda risky. Now that that's better, on to the 3.8.

The TTA 3.8 differs from the GN 3.8 because they used heads from a FWD 3.3L engine (I could be wrong on that, but it was either 3.3 or 3.1). The transmission is different because the 200R4 is not only bettersuited for drag racing, but it also holds boost better because of the closer gears. All of us 700R4 owners can vouch that our 2nd gear is way too long winded. The 700R4 from our cars will not bolt up to the Buick 3.8, but the 700 from the V8 cars will. Internally they're the same but the outer housings are different. In addition to purchasing a 3.8T you'll also need computer, wiring harness, crossmember for the transmission, transmission and a couple ofther SMALL parts.

There's a guy on www.nethirdgen.org that just finished a 3.8T swap in one weekend and reused his 700R4. He does plan to get the 200R4 as soon as he can afford it, but he's loving the 3.8T. I'd give my left nut for one.
Thanks.

 

"Dry kits just inject N20. It's up to the fuel system to deliver enough fuel...kinda risky. "

I would just add that mpfi cars the dry system blocks off the return line to boost the pressure, adding more fuel so you dont hurt anything.

I was assured from holly that this is the way to do any MPFI stock car, cause you are onling going to be able to do a 50-75hp shot anyways and the dry system is the way to go.

 

this really reminds me of the sleeper therad.. me personally would spend more money working on my v6 (turbo, sc, rebuild) than i would on a v8 swap.. anyone can get a crate 400hp v8 and throw it in.. not many ppl will take the time, money and effort doing the same to a v6 (300hp would be a easier goal.. 400hp should be possible w/ some kinda power adder)..

if u have access to the 3.8t motor, then defiently drop it in ur car.. ull defiently love it.. fyi the 3.8 is a 90* engine (basically a sbc missing 2 cylenders).. would a 3.8 from a 96-current f-body fit under the hood??

 

gotta be the heads from a 3.3 then

60*heads wont fit on a 90* block

silly billy

 

Do they make a SC for the 2.8???

 

not yet

although custom fabrication is possible

 

yeh, i've never had to run nitrous, but i do remember that whole wet or dry system conversation coming up b4. That's pretty much why i posted about it, remember though that our intakes (as even stated by tom P ) aren't meant to flow fuel, so i'd actually think that a "wet" system would be a tad more risky than a little dry system. And yes, everything for a SC or Turbo will need fabrication, you can of course by the turbo, or even the SC, but then you'll have to fab the mounting points, exaust, intake pipes, etc. loads of fun, plus there's a long list of other things that'll be needed, but in the end, it'd be a fun tirp. The Turbo 3.8L from the GN can use those 3.3L heads from front wheel drive v6's and that'll let them fit between the strut towers...GL either way.

 

i also have a friend who just wrecked his 99 pontiac bonneville supercharged and would sell me his 3.8 would i still have to run the 3.3 heads?

 

Isn't a Bonneville a FWD? I am pretty sure it is. If it is, This is an ALMOST impossible swap, while it is probably possible, it would take tons of $$$. Putting a FWD engine into a RWD car is probably 5x harder then the 3.8 turbo RWD engine swap would be.

 

I'd only run a wet kit on my car. That's my personal opinion. Saying that our plenum isnt' meant to flow fuel is an ignorant remark if you're implying that fuel's bad, but n20 is ok.

 

damn youre right hmmmm i gotta think would that supercharger work on a smaller engine like the 3.4

 

If you think the SC off a 3.8 will bolt on a 3.4/3.1/2.8 you really have no business messing with anything beyond bolt ons. Get yourself an education in GM drivetrains.

 

Actually the centrifugals have the potentional to swap over. The "Roots" type.. hmm HELL NO...

 

with enough jb weld, anything is possible

 

if it makes u guys feel any better im a converted ***** so give me a little slack ok....

 

well its just that there is really not alot of "bolt on" boosters for the 60* family. I am woking on a converted turbo gone centrifugal S/C cause I founf the exhaust turbines were shot, and I do not feel like spending 150-250 for a new turbine/shaft. So I am having the bad turbine milled off and made into a "drum" for lack of better term and I am going to mount a gear/pully to that and run it as a centrifugal S/C. Granted the PSI might not be the greatest, but hell anything will help... And going C/F makes install alot easier. Not the headace of the exhaust routing to deal with.

 

Eh; I dunno. The plenum is really only meant to flow air... that's what GM designed it for. N20 is a gas, and for basic purposes, just "air". (For those that don't know, it's a liquid in the bottle, but expands to a gas when it reaches the atmosphere- that's why nitrous also produces a "cooling" effect.) If you put a wet system on, and any fuel puddles up in the intake, and there's a backfire, the whole top of the engine blows off because of the fuel just sitting in the plenum.

See, I'd only run a dry kit, personal opinion. Granted, backfires don't happen often, but I'd rather be cautious and let the injectors handle the extra fuel. Although, the wet kits -are- supposed to give you more HP. One of the wet kit manufacturers is Nitrous Express, "NX"... I think Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) makes a few wet kits for fuel injection, but I think even they push a dry kit. 'Fact, isn't the NOS-brand kit "meant for our engines" a dry kit?

I forget Nitrous Express's website... but i'm sure it's findable thru yahoo.com ...

 

I have a dealer hookup that works NX.