I really dig the pro touring style wheels and am having a hell of a time finding any that fit our cars that also has a lip. I like this mesh style stern wheel. Thoughts?

I'd like to go 18x9.5 out back and 18x8.5 out front.



and this is my car

 

I don't care for the center cap. But I think that it will look much better than the Cragars.

 

Looks fine, but is it available in the right offset and bolt pattern?

 

I don't care for the center cap either, but i can figure something out for it..

I like it more than the cragars and I can get a full set for a great price. bolt pattern is 5x120 with +13 front and +15 rear.

 

I would suggest you use a 18" x 9.5" wheel all around - makes for easy rotation and also improves handling a lot...

 

Whats the plan for correcting the bolt pattern?

 

I like them.. they would looks bad ***

 

That center cap is almost certainly not going to fit as the hub most likely sticks out further than that center cap.

 

It's a headache finding wheels. I'm so close to just saying forget it and go stock.

I was planning on going with some hub centric adapters and then evaluating my situation from there. I really hate these cragars.

Suggestions for a reasonably priced mesh style wheel with a lip? Anybody?

 

U might end up havin a issue with the front hub rotor assembly like i have. ,. it sticks out like a **** and wont clear. They said the hub bore was 74 but they DID not say its smaller for the front. so watch out. These were gotten from ebay at a good price tho. so i guess thats the trade off.
im currently searching for a a machine shop to price out what it will cost to bore it over about 5mm or so. if its in my price range then im gonna say eff it and do it.

 

Th XXR 526 is a nice wheel and has a deep lipand different colors. A few people here have them, but you would have to run spacers.....

 

Now that's what i'm talking about. I'm very ok with spacers.

 

Those XXR's look 100000x better than the wheels your originally posted OP. Get them in 18x9.5 all the way around.

 

I just got a set of the XXR wheels....came out okay. I did have to use spacers, which didn't bother me at all. I like a wider stance....the Formulas are shaped like a boat, tucking it doesn't look right to me.

 

It might just be the picture, but it looks like the tires are sticking out further than the fender in front. Are you running 10.5's all around? Could you have run a narrower spacer? I really want to keep my tires tucked inside the fender.

I think the wheels look great on the car. Would you be able to lower the car at all?

 

The front tires in the picture have the wrong spacers...those are 2", I ended up using a 1" spacer. The tires stick out about a half inch in the front and rear - when I finished it all. I adjusted my camber to bring them in a little more.

I can post more updated pics this weekend.......

 

So if I ran 9.5s out back and 8.5 out front, I shouldn't run into that issue.

 

in for pics offset tire size etc i've been wanting to get these rims and run deep dish all around ever since they came out awesome choice they look wild on your car.

 

I think that a 18" x 9.5" all around is the way to go, since you will be able to tuck the tie rod ends into the wheel - something that can't be done with 17" or smaller.

 

[quote=heat seeker;5429078]I just got a set of the XXR wheels....came out okay. I did have to use spacers, which didn't bother me at all. I like a wider stance....the Formulas are shaped like a boat, tucking it doesn't look right to me.[quote]


Those look really good,I love my stock wheels but I wouldn't mind a set like those someday.

 

to the OP, just had mine milled out about 3/4 inch or so for the fronts.

 

Those look great. They really update the look of the car.

 

These are 18x9.5 all the way around and no rubbing with 275/35/18front 285/35/18rear

 

those look amazing on your car. A+

 

those rims do fit with a bit a fanaglin

 

Damn, I thought I was the only one with those XXR 526's on here. They look very nice on your Formula heat seeker.

Here are some more pictures of them.




These are 18x9 up front and 18x10.5 in the rear. You will need a bolt-on spacer up front. I suggest getting the 35mm offset and not the 25mm. I used a 1.25" spacer up front which helped clear the hub. The rears(20mm) require no spacer but you will need to massage the inner fender well.
The center caps will fit, you just need to massage the dust cap a little.

 

Sweet!!

 

Here are some pics that I promised. It has 1" spacers on all four corners and the rims are 18x10.5, tires are 345/30 Toyo R888 - all around. I did have to shim and roll fenders and do some hammering to get them to clear.

I had my front rotors machined down to the face of the outer bearing, so that my center cap could still fit on. You can’t use the factory dust cap, due to interference. The wheels actually seal off pretty good and the center cap has a rubber o-ring. Dust or water won’t be an issue.


Tucking the wheels didn’t give me the look I wanted from the front. With the look I was going for, the 9” wheels didn’t have a deep enough lip….so I stayed away from them.


My philosophy is: If I wanted my wheels to tuck like factory……I would have left the stock OEM wheels on. Why even bother.

 

Thanks for the compliments fellas.....you can't beat em for price!

 

That's a lot of rubber! Bet it corners like mad.

 

Thanks man. I figured I'd give them a shot....I was really hesitant at first. But they've grown on me.

I gotta get some professional pics like yours.....might actually make my car look good.

 

lol Yeah, it is a lot of rubber....but, that's what I was going for.

 

well while u were thinkin about "this wheel" i decided to machine em, space em and throw em on there. 285/35 Pilot Sports and 245/40 Toyo Proxes
this is what they look like so far.

 

Here's a few wheels for you and most of them fit properly= https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...g-3rd-gen.html
Start from the last page first and work your way forward. The more recent photos are still there.

 

345's all the way around! awesome!!

 

Sry this is all I think of when I look at those xxr's on your car heat seaker. I would def take some of that poke away with some smaller spacers, or none.

 

would the front fit without a spacer? I want to run the same setup but different color rims and 285/35 18s all around. i want the flush look not the poke , yours looks clean on the bird though.

 

You have to run a spacer on the fronts, otherwise the wheels won't mount properly. The center-hub of our front wheels would poke thru the center of the rims. You wouldn’t be able to get them to seat before hitting the hub. I had the front of my spindles machined down, flush with the outer bearing and also still used spacers. This allowed the center cap to actually fit.


You would have to use the 9” wheel and a 1” spacer and they’d fit flush….but the 10.5” won’t work.


Thanks for the compliments!

 

If he goes with the 9" wheel then I suggest the 35mm offset with a 1.25" spacer. That is what I went with to get them to fit properly and clear the hub. The dust cap would just need to be tapped flat a little bit and the center cap fits.

 

You're right a 1.25" spacer will clear with flattening the dust cap. Any less...and you have to get creative.

I forgot the 9" wheel has two different offsets........a good heads up.

 

Stern Hypermesh II for mine, still waiting on tires. No spacers. Had the front hub holes bored out so they would fit.

 

heat seeker, what diameter is the opening for the centercap? I'm running some different hubs, but I'm guessing they won't clear either. Would you be able to run those with a 1/2" spacer and no centercap? the 1" spacer may look about right when I get done with my front fenders, I just want to make sure they're not sticking out. I'd also really like to avoid adapters.

I need some cheap wheels for full tread street tires rain autocross tires and for the street. I think I'd spend the extra $500 or so for forgestar F14's, but the lack of any lip on those is killing it for me.

Either way I'm digging the way the gold CCW's look on the car, so the street tires will get spray bombed gold if I can't find them that way.

Here's the 526's in gold. Wish the 18x11 531 was available in a 5x120.6. I'd rock those at all four corners in a heartbeat if I could. Also be funny to have CCW rep's for street tires to match my race wheels

 

I don't know the exact measurement.....but machining the center bore might be an option, if you don't want to use the center cap. But, you can only bore them so far...you'll get too close to the lug holes. I don't know if I would use these wheels in autocross....they're cast wheels. Don't most racers use forged wheels for strength and safety?

Anyways, mine could be tucked, if i went with a narrow tire in the front and no spacer in the rear. I chose to go wide on all four corners. I've gotten so many head turns and compliments, since I put these wheels on...it has completely surprised me.

I agree, the lack of lip on some of the mesh wheels, make them look ridiculous on our cars. Muscle cars need a wide wheel, with a deep lip......plain and simple.

 

Or you can do what I did, and have a machine shop bore out the hub hole so it fits our cars. No spacer needed.

I took a Rotor and the wheels to a machine shop. They did not have to cut far in and did not effect the strentgh of the wheel.

 

I think that's what he's referring to....if I'm understanding him correctly. I assume you aren't using the center cap?

 

Yes, no center cap, and no need for spacers,

Center as cast,


Center machined,


As cast


Machined


As you can see The machined part is not even as big as the factory hub hole,



I painted mine gold too, Not sure If I am going to stay with that though,

 

Forged wheels are more likely to bend than break compared to a cast wheel, but I wouldn't think twice about racing on a quality cast wheel like Enkei RPF1's.

The 315 hoosier's are mounted on 18x11.5 CCW's. The only way I'd be racing on XXR's is if I get caught out with standing water at an autocross. With enough warning of rain I'll drive out my wife's mazda 3 and run it in HS/RT.

I think with the lower grip in the rain I should be okay. I'm trying to make 5.1L CP race weight too which should help too.

Still undecided, but the price is right...

 

Looking good

 

Thanks! Not sure if I am going to keep them gold, or go with a natural aluminum.

The gold is Eastwood Vintage Racing Wheel Gold.

 

Matte bronze would look good IMO. Maybe not with your paint color.

I like them with the gold.