I've got the axle up on sawhorses now, mostly disassembled. I'm doing a rebuild to give it a bit more strength, and for longevity.
There was a bit of a leak on one side, so bearings and seals on the sides.

So far i've welded the tubes, and i'll be buying the summit girdle, and i'll find a solid pinion spacer.

I've never done this before, so i'd like ANY info anyone can contribute.

Here are a few pics. First, I couldn't get the cross shaft to "drop" out, I had to hammer the crap out of it. It's hard to get a picture of it, but there's slight scoring on it. I'm guessing that's why it was hard to remove. Should it be replaced? I will definately be replacing the cross shaft bolt, and using loctite on it.
Secondly, I think the axle shafts themselves are ok (ie, bearing surfaces not bad), but i'm toying with the idea of finding 28 spline ones at the JY, and either a posi from the same car, or from a 4th gen, etc. My main question is, is the posi shown in the pic, a crappy stock style one, or is it different? I know the previous owner did a lot to the car, so he may have replaced it.... Gov-lock?

link

And finally, i'll be replacing the cap bolts with studs, since it's pretty cheap too. Any idea on the size? Can I use threaded rod cut to size (alloy steel), or a B7 grade stud?

Thanks

 

i'd replace the cross shaft, the gov lock posi doesn't have a clutch pack so it'd be easy to spot. 28 spline axles would be better to use. leave the cap bolts alone

 

well I'm not sure what a clutch pack looks like, that's why I took the pic for others to check for me. It looks like a posi to me...?

 

sofakingdom thinks this is an auburn 2 series.
I'll keep that in mind, apparently I could be using a 3 series, or a 2 series with more spacers (what I have now...)
I'll probably just upgrade that later then.


dealership says that they can't get a cross pin by itself, only as part of a gear swap package. Richmond gear says that the SG1920 zytanium cross shaft is for 8.5", but the one for my 7.5" rear is:
3991004RDF I'll have to see if I can get a gear shop to get me one of those, and the solid pinion spacer, and a cross shaft bolt. Since not many people seem to be able to find a zytanium cross shaft, I figured i'd post that P/n, and if I can find it, and if it fits.

I've got new seals and outer bearings on their way, hopefully all will work fine.
I'll have to pick up a length of 3/4" water pipe (plastic pipe?) to get those puppies out. We'll see.

 

I doubt that plastic will be strong enough.

JamesC

 

tried some copper 3/4" pipe.
Beat the crap out of it, knocked out a few of the rollers in the bearings, and mangled the end of the pipe, but the bearings didn't budge.
I'll see if I can rent a puller for these.

 

Steel pipe would have been your best bet. If you no longer wish to mess with the pipe method, you might consider the slide hammer. No problems there for me--a couple of whacks and the bearing was out.

JamesC

 

I'll see what I can rent around here first, otherwise i'll get steel pipe...
A rear end shop is looking into a solid pinion spacer and the cross shaft. Anyone know where to get a new cross shaft bolt? (GM couldn't get me one.)
Thx.

 

I'm surprised about GM. My dealership had them in stock.

JamesC

 

NAPA has the bolt and Ratech makes a solid pinion spacer.
Bolt part # : 635-1023
Ratech part# in Summit catalog: RAT-4111

 

yea, i'm seeing if there's a way to get that ratech part locally, rather then putting it on my summit order (in a few months.)

Thanks for the bolt info! I'll see if they have one for me.

 

k, as an update:

got the ratech 4111. $70CDN upon arrival, I love UPS air mail

napa had that bolt, thanks!

trying to find a cross shaft of any kind...

I used copper water pipe, beat on it with my rubber mallet, only ended up knocking the rollers out of the bearing on one side... The other side, I finally used a 20LB wheel chock type of thing, and just hammered the be-jesus out of it... came out. I have the other side left though, it's not coming out at all...there are no rollers left in it, i'll have to try and find a slide hammer.

I've removed the axle bearing caps, now can I remove the carrier?

I'll be making up a tool to hold the yoke still to remove the pinion nut, (bought a 3/4" breaker bar and 1 1/4" socket).
Which do I remove first, carrier or the pinion?
Thanks!

 

bump, just hoping someone can tell me if I can remove the carrier or pinion first... (and how to remove the carrier...)

 

I had another thread going about how to remove the carrier, but I figured this is more on topic. I just wanted to keep a log of how this went, to help others, and ask some questions along the way.
Brought the rear to a gear shop, to remove the carrier for me... buddy just used 2 pry bars, on the ring gear bolts... Big guy though. Anyway, worked like a charm.

I finally got the summit girdle:
girdle

I got the zytanium cross pin from Richmond, looks right....
cross pin

When I pulled the pinion gear out, the front bearing just fell out... I guess that was supposed to be pressed on the pinion shaft ? Anyway, it slides on, so i'll use that as the spacer while I figure out the shims for the ratech solid pinion spacer.. I'm at this stage now. I tightened the nut, and i'll go buy an inch pounds torque wrench to check it... (along with a 1/4"->3/8" adapter, 3/8"->1/2", 1/2"->3/4" ugh!) When it turns, it feels... rough... I guess I'll flush the rear pinion bearing in the parts cleaner, in case it's got some sludge in it...

Bought a new front pinion gear that will need to be pressed on. Is it ok to hammer this one with a driver, or should I try to drop the pinion in the freezer, gear in the oven, and try just pushing it on?

housing pic

For the pinion seal, should I put it in place, and cover it with a piece of 2x8 wood, then hammer it until it's flush? The old one was totally mangled, and I don't think it was on right...
Thanks

 

I cheated , I took all new parts to a shop and let them rebuild it. Best 165.00 I ever spent. Setting a pinion is not all that easy.

 

done!
Thanks for all the tips guys, much appreciated.