I have a 91 Z28 that Im in the middle of putting a "mild" (.500lift, 272/280dur) and Im curious if I could put a bigger cam in it to maximize my new heads capabilities...plus the sound of a big cam RIght now Im using the AUJP BIN, but have only played around with the basic stuff pretty much(VATS, EGR, and some of the VE tables for the old cam I had(ZZ4)). I know a cam with a 106-108LSA has more power potential, even in my street motor, but Ive always heard the ecm wouldnt know how to deal with the variance in engine vacuum......I know you can tune for say the HOT CAM, but could you tune one for a tighter lobe seperation and greater overlap???? Sorry for the ignorance....just curious if it could be done.....

 

The cam Im thinking about using is CompCams custom grind Hyd Roller 218dur@.050 int/exh, .454lift int/exh and a 110LSA.....I know the LSA is tight for fuel injection, but since the lift isnt so high, how bad will this throw off the VE tables??? Could I make it work? Youre probably asking why Id want to get rid of a .500 lift cam for a .454 lift. The reason is I have the TPI setup on mine, and a high lift cam does no good with that setup. A short duration medium lift will work much better, plus it will idle like an old muscle car , and work better with my Tranny(converter). Im also putting the stock heads(been ported and polished) back on for reasons I dont care to discuss(money....) Anyway, if somebody could let me know if this is possible, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again..........

 

This mild.
Probably enough that you'll want to dink with the VE and for sure the spark tables.

 

That cam has been done before. Same exact one on a 110 LSA. Not difficult to tune at all.

Tim

 

thats great to hear......I didnt think it would be too bad. Will I be able to start the car after the swap...just to get readings to see how far Im off? Or should I adjust before starting it? Im thinking it will just run really rich, correct??

 

Would you guys suggest a bigger cam for my TPI??? maybe a little more duration?? I just want that "sound" you guys know what Im talking about. Trax, Ive listened to your car a number of times with the hooker LT's and Mufflex exhaust....and while my car has almost the same setup, it just doesnt sound the same. Your car has a very nice lope to it, and Im looking for the same sound(or more) but just with a cam that will work with my TPI. Any suggestions on cam?? I think I can tune it......everybody has to learn, right??? thanks again for all the help guys.........

 

I wouldn't go any bigger than the 218 cam for your setup. You still have TPI and you are running heads that don't flow that well so stick with a mediocre duration. Anything bigger wouldn't be useful. IMHO the 218 is still borderline big for a TPI.

If you want lope then go with a tighter LSA or a longer exhaust duration ... or both.

Maybe try using the CC Xtreme Energy 218/224 on a 110 LSA?

Tim

 

Tim, this is a little off topic but what do consider to be the max as far as cam dur. for a superram setup with either SD or MAF? Just curious to what your thoughts are, since I may be upgrading from my LPE 219 cam.

 

thanks for the advice Tim, I just ordered that cam this afternoon....the guy at CompCams swears up and down it wont work... but I told him that I could adjust the ecm to compensate for the change in vacuum...and he was like..huh?? Anyways, It should be here sometime in the next week, along with new springs, etc(entire kit). I was wondering though, could I maybe email ya when it gets in to see if you could kinda walk me through the basics of what need to be changed??? Thanks a lot......keep everybody posted...

 

I actually really like the LPE 219 cam. It's a very good cam. Don't let that '219' figure fool ya. There's plenty in that cam to go fast. Personally, I wouldn't go any higher than a 224 cam in a SuperRam setup on a 350ci SB. However, if I had to choose I would probably run the 219 over the 224 as long as my heads had a good I/E ratio. That's the kicker - LPE designs their cams around the whole package. This means they are designed around their ported L98 heads which have an insanely good I/E ratio. Thus, the cam is a single pattern cam. If you need a dual pattern cam because your exhaust port in your head isn't that good (or because you have a really closed up exhaust) then a CC 224/230 would be a nice choice.

Tim

 

Nice cam choice

Trust me - that cam will work. I actually ran that cam on a 112LSA in my motor. It was easily tuned and very mild. The 110LSA will be cakewalk compared to what I currently have (230/245). My current cam only gives 65-70kPa at idle. That 218/224 on a 110LSA will give you more.

Sure - hit me up with some questions when you are ready.

Tim

 

ok...got my cam today the only thing is...its not the one I ordered....its the XE274H-10, instead of the XE262H-10........I checked the specs on it compared to the one I was suppose to get after I saw the numbers on the package were different. The specs on the cam I got are:

230/236 dur@.050
.487/.490 lift
110LSA

says it also needs 2200+ stall(no biggie, already have a 2800)
rpm range of 1800-6000rpm(good for TPI)

Im just worried I wont be able to get it programmed?????? will the increased duration of this cam be too much? or should I just send it back and get the original cam I ordered...????

 

If I were you I would send that cam back. Change your order. Do something. That cam is entirely wrong for your car. You will lose A LOT of power with that cam!!! TPI likes cams that make power in the midrange. That cam is ALL topend on a 350. I know. I have a 230 duration cam. Your brakes will also be marginal ... I had to go with an electric vacuum pump. Send that cam back. Don't even attempt to use it. 218 to 230 is a HUGE change in duration!!!!!

Tim

 

well....they may have made a goof....the part number(s) inside the package match the cam I ordered...just not on the UPS thing I signed on the outside of the package...Hmm...the guy at Comp said it was ok to open the package to see if indeed it was the wrong one...but turns out, it was/is the one I ordered....whew Just guess they made a goof when making out the packing slip....**** happens........Im putting the cam in tonite.....will it start with the PROM thats in it now(pretty much stock AUJP Bin)????? Ive got a BIN of the completely stock PROM that came with the car...I wanted to start it with the XE262 in it to see how much its off...but dont want to take a chance on messing something else up in the process. Any suggestions? will my idea work ok? I know Ill have to mess with the lower VE tables, but what about the spark advance? TPS? sorry....Im still a newbie:hail:

 

Yes, it will start and run on the stock PROM. However - you will be running incredibly rich at idle ... BLMs will bottom out to 108.

The main thing here is to open the throttle blades using the throttle stop screw. Otherwise - you'll never get enough air in there for the thing to idle and you'll be stuck wondering why you can't get the thing to run unless your foot is slightly on the gas. That's the key. You may also want to consider starting the car with LESS fuel pressure. That way you aren't flooding the car. Just reduce the pressure by about 5lbs or so and then bump it back up once you have a good idea as to how you need to modify the lower ve table.

I'm not sure if this will come through but here was my lower VE table when running the 218/224 CC Xtreme on a 112LSA with SVO injectors, AFR heads, and a MiniRam.

 

Ok I got it.....but...when I open the throttle blades...dont I also need to turn the TPS down(voltage)...I think its set at .56volts right now....should I turn it down to say .52? or lower? Or, should I open the blades, and then readjust the TPS to .54-.56 again? I got the cam in a bit ago(easy when 4people working on it..), I havent started it yet....mainly because of neighbors. I dont have my catback hooked up yet, so its just Hooker LT's into the Mufflex Y ....in my garage. Ill start it in the morning after adjusting the throttle blades and TPS....and go from there. I cant wait to hear it. Hell, I might just rehook the catback and start it tonite.....Ill post a sound file on here after I get it running.....thanks for all the help. Im sure Ill be bugging everybody on this board for a while...just till I get used to programming.

 

I think you have another problem...that cam is only a hydraulic cam, not a hydraulic roller. Comp Cams generally use "HR" for hydraulic roller & "H" for hydraulic.

You better double check.

 

sorry double post....

 

ITs a roller....they just used that part number for the Grind....the rollers I got with the cam-kit are hydraulic.....I double checked before I put the cam in because I noticed that also. Everything went in fine.

 

Ok...I turned up the throttle blades a couple turns....readjusted the TPS to .52volts, and it started and ran....for about 10sec. I hooked up my fuel press gauge and had my buddy restart the car.....I had to turn up the throttle blades a bit more to make it keep running so I could readjust the fuel press. I set it to 42psi..and shut the car back off. I then readjusted the TPS to .52 again......and started it......it ran(sounds GREAT!!!) ITs still a "bit" too rich....but Im letting it warm up right now to see if it goes down a bit. Im also trying to find my recorder to get a sound file of this thing to put on here.........

 

ok...sound file....tell me if its still rich.. just a tad.......time to program.

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Sweet!

The throttle blade thing is the biggest thing a noob cam-swapper misses when first trying to start the car. Congrats!

Tim