I have a stock suspension car. Whats the biggest DR tire one can put on there without frame mods? What kinda back spacing is needed?

Thanks

 

i can fit a 275 60 dr with a 5" backspacing on my 88 iroc. had ot beat in the front section by the LCA a bit, but otherwise, there is tons of room.

 

Well, that’s a half assed answer, although technically it answers the question the way it was worded.

A 275 60 15 DRwill fit on anything from a 7-10” rim. 5” bs on a 7” rim is about 1” offset in, which I doubt will clear the inner fenders with any size tire. A 5” bs with a 10” rim is about a .5” offset out which will cause just about any tire to hit the fender lip and stick out about 1” or more.

I have a set of 275 60 15 BFG DR’s mounted on some stock offset (1/2”) wheels which clear well but like he mentioned I did have to do a little hammering on the inside front of the wheel wells and on the middle back of the passenger side wheel well (the lump that the spare tire mount makes back there), but neither contact point was bad enough that it was hurting anything, I’d just hear it every once in a while and saw where the undercoat was rubbed off (I drove it that way for probably 2 months).

I think that a slightly bigger tire might go in there with a small spacer (ending up with about a ¼”-3/8” offset) or with a taller ride height (my car is lowered about 1.5” in the back), but much bigger then that will involve some serious cutting/hammering.

 

83 crossfire you dont think the 295-65-15 will fit with out mini tubing the car. I have a 9in rim with 5" backspacing.I have run slicks in the past 28/10.5 and 29.5/9.0. Big hammer and some flat black paint thay fit fine.

 

ross: the 295 65 will be a tight fit. you will have to hammer more for sure.
ive tried a 28x12.50 M/H slick before with a 4.5" backspacing and it wouldnt roll. hit both the inner fender, and skated accross the outer lip. this tire is 28x12.4" same as the 295 65. i think with rolling the outer fender and using either a 4.5 or 5" BS, it could work.
cant gaurantte how much you gotta bang.i had borrowed the set of 12.5's, so i wasnt out. i went and got a set of 28x10.50's and they fit fine on a 5" BS.

EDIT: these are all accounts on a 15x8 inch rim.

 

Stage 20 ive had 28x10.50 on the car with 8in and 9 in wheels. I have already rolled the upper edge and beat the inner fender well in the front side on the body and inner fender ive just removed the brace on the in side of the car so that I can beat the inner side in more. It dosent bother me to cut and weld in patchs in if needed. I forgot the stock intirior must fit in the car.

 

if you wanna cut and weld, they will fit in my opinion. i just didnt feel like beating and banging. i have a friend who put 325/50's under the car without too much banging on a 15x10. 12lb sledge is your friend.
why the need for such tall tire, you trying to take out gear of the car ?

 

I like the look and the new motor is almost done 434ci. I was going to race the hot rod mag pump gas drags but coulde not finish the car in time. Planing on some bottom 9 sec passes with race fuel just trying to make it consestat. the car on a 28x10.5 went a best 60 ft of 1.4 @9.6et

 

Ross, they’re 1.6” taller and 1.4” wider then the DR’s that I was talking about. I don’t see how they’re going to fit without a lot of changes. I suspect at the least you’ll need to roll/cut the lips, cut the front of the wheel housing where it tucks in in the front, move it around and add some metal and remove the spare tire lump in the back of the passenger side, and then you’d still have to keep the ride height pretty high. Maybe not quite so bad if you keep the ride height up there.

That’s one BIG freaking tire though. I firmly believe that most people run more tire then what they need (the only reason that I own a set of 275 60 15’s is that I got them for free, I’ve been happy with my dragstrip results on some 275 40 17 nitto DR’s and some G60 16 (about 245 60 15) McCreary dirt track tires), and I honestly believe that a lot of people are loosing more to drag and power used just to turn their bigass tires then if they took the time to get the suspension and chassis dialed in right.

OTOH, if you intend to treat the tires like you would a set of full on slicks…

Pump gas drags huh? Do you have an invite? My brother’s car made “the best of the cars that didn’t make it” list and got some pics and a mention in the mag, but hasn’t managed to get invited in. Actually, I believe he also got a response that there was a problem with his “how do you intend to cheat” (an actual question on the entry form) answer. Why not run something more dragstrip oriented that won’t involve as much cutting?

 

Any pics of this and/or more details? I’m assuming that we’re talking f-body, right? If you're willing to deal with something shorter, the 325 50 15 looks like it would be a good choice to put a lot of meat under an f-body without major mods to the wheel wells.


OH, another thing, there was a rumor about a year ago or so that the 295/65 DR’s were discontinued (a big issue with some of the musclecar/second gen guys since they were a favorite in those circles)… donno how true it was.

 

83 crossfire I did not get the car done in time to enter had two hurricanes hit my town. And yes this is an 82 third gen. For the pump gas invite I had the car pulled apart and painted I was going to extend the wheel wells when I had it at the body shop but after talking it was going to be a lot of time and money decided not to do it. I was looking for a used 295 to test fit on the car but every one I know is runing the 315-60-15 and one person is running the 275-60-15 so no such luck as of yet and yes thay still make that size tire just looked at one today at the speed shop. Details motr specs Dart block, callies crank, lunati billet I beam rods 6.0 length, custom piston with the .043 top ring and 1/16second 3/16 oil ring, 11.25 static comp big soild roller cam,dart 227 cnc heads, super victor intake, 950hp carb,JW turbo 400 trans 9in rear im ditching the detroit and the 31 spline axels for a 33 splined spool and 4.10 gears if the 295s go on or a 3.89 gear if i end up using the 275s I would post pic but I dont know how to.I forgot one thing nos cross plate with the pro race solenoid was going to try a 275 to 300 shot with race fuel pump gas about a 150hp cheater kit. And hope the pistons stay together only have two spares.

 

Well I bought the 295-65-15 mt radial mounted it on a 9in wide rim with a 5in backspacing the tire fits with 1/2 in on the front side of the wheel well and about 3/4 in on the inside front. With the rear end housing moved back about 1/4 in I well be happy. also im going to do a little bit of beating on the inside fender and buy a 10 in rim with 6 in backspacing.

 

do you have any pics of how much you had to beat in the inside of the wheelwell.
i would love to run this tire on the street.

 

i am very interested how the 325/50/15 was put on the car. if any pics are attainable, that would be very nice.

 

I do not know how to post a pic but I do have dig camara and I can email some pic. Just to clear up I did not beat the inner fender well yet. But thay have had a few beatings in the past to fit other tires.

 

you cant post it here if its not a huge filsize. when you make a post look down after you type in your text.
you will see "options" and then "attach file"
click on browse, then it goes right into your computer to search for the pic.
if not, you can email me. 1slosbc@***.net
im really interested in how much clearing has to be done for that tire.
thanks!

 

Stage 20 pic are to big I sent you an email. also my car is a regular camaro not a z28 no ground affects.

 

does it stick out any? did you have to roll the inner fender lip? what is the wheels size and backspacing? did i read that right, you moved the rearend back 1/4"?

 

No it does not stick out past the upper portion of the fender lip. Yes the upper portion of the fender lip has been rolled for more clerance. 9in 5in backspacing but I will buy a new set of 10in with 6in backspacing. No I have not moved the rear end yet but I will before I make a pass on the car.

 

You can kinda see in this picture where ya have to massage the inner wheel well with a hammer. The front part down towards the trailing arm mount, when i installed these MT 29.5x9 I had to cut the bump stop off as well as the sidewall was rubbing big time.

<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Misc.carpics010.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>

Ross, send me some pics, got broad band so I can handle any size ya got and I'll get them up here. j.meighan@mchsi.com

 

Pics hot off the press from Ross:
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Februaryracetires2005004.jpg' width=500 height=666 img>
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Februaryracetires2005006.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Februaryracetires2005009.jpg' width=375 height=500 img>
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Februaryracetires2005010.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>

 

heres me in the middle of Mini tubing the inner wells. and Rolling the lip.

This is a 27x11.5x15

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...s/DSC01192.JPG

This shot you can see the inside wells removed. Im actually fabing up my own because the tops have to be flat to accomadate the vert top

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...s/DSC01122.JPG

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...s/DSC01071.JPG

Im not sure of the BS on these rims. I borrowed em from my buddy who runs em on his S10. I figured with this much BS if I mini tub this combo to fit I can easily custom order some 17x11 or 18x12's and stuff a 315 under the lip with NO problems.

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...s/DSC01087.JPG

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...s/DSC01183.JPG

I also cut out the bumpstop bracket also..

 

is it a covertible thing? ive got a standard length rear in the car with a 5' BS rim and i can fit a 27 11.5 15 no problem. just have the front tapped in by the LCA.

 

Kinda what I was wondering, but if he intends to go much much bigger then his bases are covered. I fit 27 & 28x11.5 DOT slicks with just hammering the front inner fender. That's with 10"rim 5.5" offset. I fit 28x10 true slicks no problem, and 29.5x9" slicks no problem either.

11.9" section width is about all you can fit width wise with minor massaging before you have to start really diggin in and cutting stuff up.

 

Once again thankyou IHI. Ithink its going to look even better with a 10 in wide rim and a 6 in backspacing. The only thing that bums me out is I bought two pair of rear rims 9 in wide and now im going to get a third set. Its getting harder to hide this stuff from my wife.

 

Just be careful with the 6" BS. I know with my 5.5" it gets pretty dam tight. The 28x11.5 might be alright with some more massaging, BFH and liquid wrench, but when you approach the 11.9" section width your pretty much maxed out on the inside of the wheel well since the bump out where your bump stop attaches to becomes an issue. When I installed these 29.5x9's that's where I had problems. M/T has the ugliest tires with that goof ball balloon sidwall on all of them and that's where I ended up runnig into problems. Lest now I can say I tried M/T but will be going back with my tried, true, and proven winning Hoosiers!!!

My photo shrinking and hosing fee is:
1 set of 9" rims, I'll pick up shipping

Think I'm gonna get another set of draglites this summer, probably just 8" with 4.5" BS I can mount some radials on for street driving.

 

IHI- be careful with a 4.5 BS with a larger tire. unless you have your outer fender lip rolled.
and you are right on the 11.9 part. ive tried to squeeze in 12.4 and it wouldnt do it. doh!

 

8" rim I'm just gonna install some 275/60-15 radials, will have plenty of clearance

Only part I'm not real happy with the 5.5" BS is the fact it's about even with the wheel lip so after a days worth of racing I have a hood, roof, hatch, doors, front fenders, you name it with rubber/muddy water all over them.

28x11.5 Quick Time Pro DOT slick 10"rim 5.5" BS
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Birdpre-trackdebutwithnewdrivetrain005.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Birdpre-trackdebutwithnewdrivetrain006.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Birdpre-trackdebutwithnewdrivetrain007.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>
29.5x9 M/T slicks-dont have any other shots except action photos.
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/Misc.carpics004.jpg' width=500 height=375 img>

You can se even though they're only rated 9" wide, they hae plenty of rubber making contact, I guess it'd be compared to the 10.5" tire class where the tires are acutally 12-14" wide contact patch on the ground
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-9/824085/cartruck2.jpg' width=500 height=333 img>

 

My thoghts on the new rim was that it will bring the tire in more and keep it under the car for a better overall look. As you can see in the pictures the car is not back together yet so a little cutting or like you said the liquid wrench dosent bother me to use. I cant wait for this damn thing to run again!!!

 

IHC with your lower controll arms cant you move the rear back some to make more clearance in front of the tires?

 

Not a vert thing. As I said I plan to stuff a 17x11 or 18x12 out back with a 315. The fab work is no problem so I figured do it while its down. Then put the 9inch under the car.

 

If a person had adjustible LCA and did'nt extend them too much to where they get flimsy, you could in fact move the rear end back a little bit, and actually i think it would better center the wheel/tire combo better in the opening since once you start getting into taller/wider combo's you will see factory the placement is a wee bit basied towards the front of the wheel well.
You just dont want to get too carried away, I think the factory driveshaft has plenty of yoke to permit rearend movement backwards with no ill effect, but it'd be something to check.

It still will not help in the bumpstop area though

 

Am I the only one that has a 28" tire hitting the back of the passenger side wheel well with stock LCA's? or have all of you cut out the spare tire bulge?

 

mine's stock still back there. 275/60/15 futura super sports on the street. ran 275/60/15 bfg dr's at the track last year. will run new m/t drag radial this year.

 

OK, here’s a pic of my ratty formula with some 275/60/15 BFG DR’s on the back (and 215/65/15 GT+4’s on the front). It is at slightly lower then stock ride height.

If anything, it looks like the tire is a little closer to the back of the wheel well then it is to the front, and if it wasn’t for that dented in portion by the LCA (which is easily cut, reshaped, moved and patched), that there would be more room in the front of the wheel well then in the back

 

Actually, here, a bigger shot. I don’t know if you can see it in the first pic, but there is the dark outline of the spare tire pocket inside the wheel well there… in this pic it’s practically touching the tire and I traced it with the red dotted line. I found later that it was actually rubbing the tire in that spot as well as the typical spot in the front of the wheel wells on both sides.

 

Can honestly say I dont have that issue. Did yours come with a full size spare??

 

It might just be the shorter then stock ride height. That tire was hitting right in the middle of the tread in that spot, actually worse then it was hitting on the inside front. I’m assuming that I’m not the only one that has the spare tire lump there…

 

That is sweet. Do u have any more pics of the car send them to whitez406@aol.com. Thanks

 

IHI what tires did you used on this run? 1/4mi. 10.985 @ 122.10mph
Mickeys or Hoosiers?

 

Hoosier 28x11.5 DOT Quik Time Pro slicks
This is what the combination was initially set up for cam/convertor/gear/tire height size and I was crossing the stripe about 66-6700rpm right where I wanted and needed to be. I was having some inconsistency problems in my 60's though at that time with all factory suspension and adjustible jegster torque arm. So once I wore out that set of Hoosiers I tried the M/T in a taller size to lose some gear reduction for a softer hit outta the box, man did it ever slow me down all the way around.

Went from consistent 1.49-1.50 60's all the way down to 1.55-1.56, et dropped from consistent 11.02-11.06 to 11.26-11.30 depending on air and trap rpm dropped from 66-6700 all the way down to 5900rpm, mph dropped from 120-122mph down to 118mph.

Now that I updated the struts/shocks/springs I will be switching back to Hoosier 28x11.5 DOT again. The M/T are no where near as consistent or predictable off the line as the Hoosiers were as far as nailing R/T. Will be nice to get my ET/mph back so the big end will be a lil closer on some races. Figured I try the M/T, but after running 2 sets last year I can honestly say I will never run M/T ever again. They are the ugliest tire I've had mounted out back with the bubbled out sidewall they have, and I just could not count on these tires in a pinch...but I gave them a fair shot, just cant wait for these last ones to wear out!!

Just my opinion on the Hoosier vs M/T thing, not to mention there are fewer and fewer cars here at home running M/T for whatever reason-most of the diehard M/T tried out a set of Hoosiers and are sticking with them now-again, just an observation from my home track.

 

Guess theres no more pictures

 

for stage 20

 

and to think i posted in this thread and couldnt find it!

thanks