i want to buy this cam a dude on here is selling but i dont know if it will work or not.

the cams specs are as follows:

Part Number 08-302-8
Engine -9999 Chevrolet
305ci-350ci
8cyl.
Grind Number CS 264H-R12
Description
Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.48 0.48
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 264 274
Valve Timing At 0.05
Open Close
Intake -3 33
Exhaust 46 -6
These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 108 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 210 220
Lobe Lift 0.32 0.32
Lobe Separation 112
Recommended Valve Springs 981-16



will that work on my 305tbi (1992 camaro rs auto) ?
also, if i change the springs, can i put in a cam with more than .480 lift (that is the max stock springs lfit right?)

next, guy wants to keep the lifters i think. ive always heard that when replacing a lifter or a cam, they all must go as a set because they wear to each other. guy claims sub 500 miles on cam also, would that make any difference.


but once again, i searched and couldnt find out what the max stock lift is, some peopler say .470 others say .480, any ideas?

 

.470 is typically the accepted max valve lift for production heads. If you are willing to pull the heads, and have the valve guides cut, you will likely be alright. It usualy isn't the springs that limits the lift (i think even stock springs, won't bind until around .500), it is the valve guide clearance.

One other thing to consider, is possibly going to screw-in studs, with new hi-po valve springs, and the higher lift, I would worry about pulling the studs (I have pulled them on cars with less lift that .480)

Being a roller motor, you can re-use your lifters, the lift/cam match-up only applies to hydrolic-tappet cams, not hydro-rollers.

The only other issue that may come up, is if that cam was ground on a smaller base, in which case you would need new pushrods, at only .480, i wouldn't image they grind that came on a smaller base, but you never know until you install it.

I run a cam that is just a hair smaller than that, it will makes a great combo, but I will warn you, that it is going to take quite a bit of tuning (mine would not even start on the stock chip.)

--John

 

damn. all i was looking for was a cheap cam to slap in my motor before it dies.

also, the cam is a computer cam, it should work eh?

what cam do you have?

 

I have an UltraDyne 272/282 (206/216 .457 .457 112/106)

Bang for the buck, the LT1 cam seems very popular, and can be had for really cheap. If you are looking for cheap and easy that might be the way to go.

 

well im also worried about it even running on my car. will this ultradyne run? will the lt1 cam run?

 

My ultradyne would not idle on the stock computer.

Guys with experiance on the LT1 cam, can comment on their experiance, but even if it does 'run' it will not run at it potential, and the mismatch between the timing/fuel tables and the cam, may actualy cause a loss in performance.

 

damnit this is why i hate tuning and stuff. its just an extra 300 dollars i have to spend, and i dont have a laptop to datalog or any of that crap with. not to mention the moates website doesnt really specifiy which "kit" is the right one i need, itsm ore of "heres 7 things, good luck".

i need a carburetor.


so i can stop all this bull****.

 

Ebay a laptop for $25, the rest of the stuff is only around $125.

It isn't 'that hard'

As for moates site, yes if you don't know what you need, it is hard to navigate. But that is why we are here.

This is what you will need to burn:
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=48

This is the adaptor you need:
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=37

These are the chips you will need (i would get 2, maybe 3 of them)
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=38

And you may also want a ZIF socket, so the chips are easy to get in and out.
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=46

The adaptor is a soder in unit, for a small fee you can ship your computer to Craig, he will install it, and send it back to you. If you are not very confident with you sodering skills, I would recomend this route.

--John

 

hmmm. i asked some guys to help me out doing what youj ust did a few months ago and no one replied. i thank you very much.


lets see... if i get this chip burning stuff, and a cam.... i figure it will be around 250 bucks..... i MIGHT be able to live with that. college student + own apartment and other crap = $$$$$$$$$

 

Yeah, I've been there (never a college student, but poor and trying to modify.)

I will warn you, expect to spend more on the cam swap. Things like misc bolts, gaskets, etc will add up.

 

well i dunno what im gonna do now. today i went out to get a price of the electric fan setups becuase my fan started making nosies yesterday. well as i left i noticed my temps crept up to 220 at stop lights. **** ... so i was sitting at this one light and i had already smelled something and didnt htink anything of it, but i smelled it again and then **** started smoking from udner my hood and through my vents i was like wtf! i got out and looked and didnt see anything? so i got back in and drove home got home and my temps at like 220 again. so i shut it off and looked in my engine bay. first thing i saw:

coolant dripping from rad cap. brand new cap/ rad/ hoses. less than 1500 miles.

so i started it up again. i looked at my fan. (its hardwired to always run from previous owner) and it wasnt moving. great.

next : SOMETHING is sucking a LOT of air. i can hear it. dunno wtf it is. but it sounds viscious. like a hell of a vacuum leak. as i drove home from the smoke at the light, my car ran like ****..... i dunno WTF happened. i can only imagine....

*sigh*

 

also. the smell was sweet. i pulled my air filter top off once and like.. a bit of white smoke was coming in from where the pass. side breather filter blows into the air box thing...

 

Sounds like the intake is leaking coolant among other things... Dont drive it like that, water isnt a terribly good lubricant for bearings. Might even be a good idea to drain the coolant and oil, refill with fresh oil, and let it idle for a few brief seconds to help drive teh coolant off the internal parts to hold it untill you can fix the car. How bad does the oil look?

 

what could cause it to do that just randomly (no way the fan dieing could have caused it. i got home before the car got over 220*F. (it ran at 200-220 all the time before i got new rad / and new thermostat)

 

were you using the factory guage?......I wouldn't trust the guage as far as I could throw it.