Okay, what's up? My 86 Iroc's choke light has been coming on recently. And this really sad buzzing sound comes from somewhere deep in my dashboard. The light has no pattern when it turns on and off. At some points, i will have my turn signall on, it it will just blink in synchronization with it. SOmeone suggested it could be a bad ground, but I have my suspicions maybe something is wrong with the choke? What leads me to believe this is that the idle RPMs are affected as well, it never idles high to a specific rpm, but it will climb to around 1500 and even higher at times. Anybody experience this type of fun problem??? Help!

IROCMTL :rockon:

 

For reasons beyond the scope of the discussion, the "Choke" light isn't a "Choke" light at all, it's really the "Alternator" light. It just so happens that the choke doesn't get 12V fed to it whenever the alt isn't working, so they labelled the light that way.

And of course, when the choke doesn't get 12V, it doesn't come off; so since it's sort of stuck on, your carb is held in fast idle.

You need an alternator.

 

yup, its alternator time!

 

nice! gota love that american inginuity, right? yeah, my alternator has been sucking alot lately, the voltage goes all over the place, and at night i swear my car is cursed with the prince of darkness. Cool, i'll get an alt and replace dems ****s!

 

I think you just solved my choke problems as well... My voltage has also been intermittent lately. So which replacement alternator would you recommend? They seem to range from around 60-110 amps, with the price varying accordingly.


thanks

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com

get a cs 144 conversion, its a little tricky to install because its bigger than the standard 3rd gen styles but it is rock solid

 

ok i have another headscrating question my choke has stuck shut and i posted a question and they told me it was the alt also but my heater has been doin whatever it wants sometimes when it is stuck on and wont' shut off and somtimes it is stuck off and won't turn on but when it is stuck on and i change the fan from hi to low back to hi ext. the fan dosn't change but the choke light comes on brighter on high dimer on low and everything inbettween do you the the alt. will fix my heater or is it a bad ground to and my volt meter flickers with the turn signal also lol

 

WHAT?!? I got a headache from tryin to read your post, I'm going to go take some advil and sleep on it.

 

Put a warning on that message please... My head hurt already, now its worse.

I had that choke problem, I just replaced everything from the cam on up. I went with a 110 amp alternator to power the KCs and all the sterio equipment in the car, and it seems to work great. I would however get rid of that electric carb. Those get on my nerves even more than FI, you can at least target an individual part in the FI system, as opposed to the magical box of metal and wires that never works right, known most commonly as an electronic quadrajet.

 

i know it sounds confusing but i am frustrated and need help

 

RD:

First you need an alternator. That will fix the choke not working and the Choke light coming on. Take care of that, then come back and ask again about whatever your blower motor problems are. Use Notepad or something to compose the message so that it is coherent and understandable, you'll get more help that way, if people can actually read it and tell what it's supposed to say.

 

I'm having the same problem as the original post. Choke light on, dash buzzing, high idle, i just replaced the alternator and nothing has changed. Any other ideas on what the problem could be?

 

Remove the lower panel trim from the dash in the driver's footwell area. Dive in there with a hand light and locate the swing-down "Convenience Center".



Unclip it and swing it downward. One of the relays mounted to the Center is for the choke heater. Test the relay contacts and coil continuity of that relay. Replace it if anything is questionable.

You should also meter the continuity of the choke coil heating element under the hood.

The warning lamp circuit isn't just an indication of no alternator output, but an indication of no choke heater current as well, even if the alternator output is perfectly normal.

 

yes...that damn buzzing sound is a relay under the dash...cost $10 from a dealer

 

Brian- your choke element could really be bad. The high idle is a dead-giveaway that the choke isn't getting fully open. With the key in the "run" postition you should get a full 12V at the wire that connects to the round, black choke element on the passenger side of the carb. If you got good voltage there then your choke element is toast. If you don't have good voltage then your choke power relay or wiring is bad somewhere.

None of this disagrees with what Vader posted in any way- it's just a quick way of diagnosing where the problem is.