Well I got some used Edelbrocks for $140 They are the EDL-6872 for the 86-90 TPI's. I know Edelbrocks are not the best but you cant beat that for the price. They will be here next Tuesday so Im trying to get everything I need organized. I got lots of PB blaster

I know I need some alluminum or copper gaskets, but which style should I get? like square or D-port? What bolts should I get? Like the size and length. I dont want to mess with the stage 8 bolts since some people have said they are a pain.

I have an 83 Z and I live in Cali so I have to keep all my emmisions crap. Is the install going to be any easier or harder since I have an 83? I have only basically read about people installing headers on their 86-92. Am I going to need to remove a lot of stuff to take the old manifolds off and install the new headers? Any help is appreciated.

 

You could get a nicer quality gasket for the head to header, but that's pretty much a waste IMHO. I've been running a OEM replacement type for over 3 years now without a problem on my TES. Don't spend money thinking you can upgrade the collector gaskets either. There a donut type so there are no aftermarket copper or steel ones for them that I have found yet. You might want to do some searching and get a few replacement donuts though, I know theres a napa part number on here somewhere. If you try to buy them for JEGs or Summit plan on spending 10 to 20 bucks for the pair of gaskets which is way to much.

Hopefully you got the y pipes to go with the headers also. Because depending on the model number they slip on or bolt up the CAT which means you might have to use the pipe on there to cut and weld the new y pipes on it. I had to have my pipes coming from the cats cut and the new pipes weld on them.

Only problem I forsee is it looks like the 1982-87 Camaro/Firebird 5.0L LG-4 have a 2 1/4" pipe for the CAT in and your kit is designed for a 3". But since you have upgraded to a 3" CAT I don't really see that being a problem now.

 

Yeah the headers also come with the y-pipe too. I do have a 3 inch cat along with my 3 inch catback so I should be good to go. What style gaskets are the header to head gaskets?

 

Okay will the Felpro 1444's work for me? I found some collector gaskets that will work but I am unsure of the Felpro 1444's for the header to head gasket. Im still looking for hardware.

What besides the dipstick will I have to remove? I am retaining all my smog and air equipment and have ac.

 

no one has edelbrocks

 

Hey PM Raiden, He just bougt the Edelbrock from us, So I am sure he has your answers!!!

 

you might not HAVE to, but one thing I do remember about doing that install (tes) is taking out the starter made my life 349573497% easier when putting in the passenger side... i think i may have even put the header in place from underneath the car. This was on an 88 though, so yours may be different. my ac was on the passenger side, along with all the emissions stuff and even after pulling off and moving as much of it as possible, i still had to pull the starter... it took me a long and frustrating time to figure this out on my own so i thought id tell ya.

 

You might get some unpleasant surprises with CA emissions and those headers, depending upon how **** the inspektor you draw turns out to be.

Carb'd engines have an "EFE" valve on the outlet of the passenger side manifold. The LG4 TES retains that valve, the TPI does not. You can't easily install it in the TPI TES, and it's a major restriction, anyway (Chevy High Performance magazine found that out the hard way) - the L69 version is larger and would be less of a restriction. But, it's somewhat hidden, so it is possible Herr Inspektor won't notice that it's missing. However, the CARB EO # will only apply to TPI cars, and if he looks that up and has a clue what he's doing, you're in for some hassles.

The other issue is LG4 had 2-1/4" cat. L69 had 2-3/4" - much better. Again, depending upon the anality level, that may or may not cause you problems.

Anything after the cat they won't care, as long as it isn't leaking.

I pretty much breezed through the first time after my mods here, but they really looked over the underhood stickers (1st time they even noticed them) before finally closing the hood and clicking "Pass" on all the visual inspection items (EFE valve wasn't on their computerized check list).

 

Here are some good instructions I found. Others should find this usefull.

Well if it was my car I would have bought the headers for the single 3in cat and converted so it would come with the mandrel bent y pipe then I would have the shop make me a "test pipe" to go in place of the cat. Like I have with the SLP's . Just have the muffler shop do the pipe and get yourself some "test pipes" to go in the place of the cats.
Before you install anything take a good look at how everything is connected. That way it will be easier to put back together, maybe even take pictures if your forgetful . Be sure to note the orentation of the alternator and A/C brackets(LABLE THEM) and smog pump tube routing. Get a jar of antiseize, 12pt wrenches NOT 6pt, 12pt sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 drive, a 1/2 and 3/8 drive breaker bars, swivles for both drives, extensions of all lengths, 2 cans of penetrating oil, a Sawsall with metal cutting blades, a good hydralic jack and jack stands, new cut to fit plug wires with ALL 90 degree boots, new plugs, new O2 sensor, Made For You centerbolt wire looms (very nice product), and a buddy to help you.

A day or 2 before you start, get the penetrating oil and soak ALL bolts about 3 times a day till the day you begin; manifold, collector, cat, hanggers, and muffler clamps. Before you do anything be sure to disconnect the battery FIRST. You do this because when you drop the header in on the passenger side it comes real close to the starter and will short if it comes in contact with the BAT terminal. Now jack the car up as high as you can and support with jackstands. Unbolt the y-pipe and cats. Start on the driver side and pull the plug wires and remove the manifold bolts you soaked in penetrating oil, and accessary brackets. 6 bolts and it will pull out from the top. On the passenger's side remove the smog pump diverter valve, plug wires, and the rest of the manifold bolts. If at all possible just unbolt the dipstick and leave it in place, just bend it out of the way when necessary. 6 bolts and the manifold will pull out from the top. Back to driver side, unbolt the steering shaft and put aside, pull out old plugs but DO NOT install the new ones. To move the steering shaft remove the bolt in the middle and slid the telescoping shaft in on itself and then it can be pushed out of the way. Coat all the new header bolts in antiseize and don't forget the lock washers, thread the back one in with the gasket on. Slip the header in from the top on the last bolt and line up the gasket and start the rest of the bolts EXCEPT the front 2 bolts. Keep header loose and install new plugs. Torque the bolts as tight as you can with whatever tool is easier: ratchet or wrench. Then reconnect the steering shaft. The reason you install the new plugs AFTER the header is on is to avoid breaking them as the header drops in. Back to passenger side, there is a solid coolant line running along the frame rail locate that line and unbolt the anchor for it so you can move it back and forth slightly. This is only to gain additional room if you are using 1 3/4 headers. Thread last bolt with gasket in and slip header in from the top, it will go in easier if you start it as far forward toward the raidator as possible. With all bolts in loosely except the first 2, install the NEW plugs and then torque the header bolts remembering the lock washers. After both sides are in reinstall the A/C bracket(HOPE YOU LABLED IT) using the supplied long spacer and longer bolt and lock washer locating which of the front 2 empty bolt holes it lines up with. Loosely place it on the A/C and header and torque it as tight as possible then reinstall a bolt in the empty hole. Do the same on the driver side for the alternator. Now bend the dipstick back so it lines up with any manifold bolt hole, you may need to use the shorter of the spacers for it to fit. Remove bolt and attach dipstick tube. Install the Made For You wire looms to the back 3 valve cover bolts and then connect one pluge wire at a time routing it through the wire looms and then cut to fit. Do not do the front 2 plugs yet. Be very careful to keep the plug wires off the headers at all costs. After the back 2 plug wires are routed reinstall the smog pump and then route the front 2 plug wires around the smog pump and cut to length. Reroute/reconnect all smog pump hoses and check fan switch sensor wire. Install the Made For You wire looms on the back 3 valve cover bolts on the driver side and route the plug wires in a similar manner. Reroute/reconnect all smog pump hoses and check guage sensor wire.

Now loosely assemble y pipe covering all bolts in antiseize. Install dougnuts on pipe and install loosely on car. Install NEW O2 sensor in bung on driver side header from underneath using antiseize on threads, DO NOT overtighten.

Now for the catback: lower the front and jack up the rear and secure THE BODY on jack stands letting the rear hang. If you do not know how give me a call and I will come over, check your email for number. Get out the Sawsall and cut the over the axle pipe, unbolt all hangers, and muffler clamps and remove. Install the new catback using antiseize on all bolts and pipe slip fit connections. Route the intermediate (long) pipe over the axle and clamp to the over the axle (curved) pipe loosely. Hang rear of pipe and have a friend hold the muffler in place as you install the tail pipes and hangers. Keep all connections loose but snug. Install cats/"test pipes" and line every thing up to maximize ground clearence and rear axel/suspension travel. Readjust tail pipes so they are straight and torque all clamps and hangers. Recheck all connections, hoses, and plug wire routing and reconnect the battery. Start her up and enjoy the sound!!!!!!!!! Go for a drive and listen for any banging of the exhaust on the underbody, have a friend come along and listen to pinpoint the source of the sound. More than likely the exhaust will need adjusting. If all is well have fun and enjoy!!!!!!!!!

 

I found my gaskets I need. I am using the Felpro 1426 gaskets and for the donut gaskets im using Napa alluminized gaskets Part# F7139.

Does anyone know where I can get the spacers?