what do people mean by free mods. also what kind of free mods or cheap mods can i do and still pass ca smog
thanks

 

free mods - something you do yourself, not paying anyone, you can do the ultimate tbi mods or check the tech articles

 

Dropping the car's weight:
Taking a dump... I'm sorry I've been told it's about 5 cents to flush so it's not free, unless you "go" in the woods.LOL
Really though, removing weight from the car (spare tire, etc) falls into that catagory.
Making sure your tune is correct.

I myself don't think anything is for free...our time is valuable too.

 

freemods are very cheap maybe even free to do mods if you have the tools..

 

i have a 84 z l69 5 spd t top what can i do. are there certain pumps and hoses that i can remove i already did my ac belt what else can i do.

 

First things first, leave California.

Now that you have left the state you can start modifying your car.

I have the same car as you, 84 Z, L69, T-tops. I've removed the computer controlled distributor and carb, smog pump and all of the emission stuff and those few things along made a huge difference.

But I live in a rural county where there are no emissions checks.

 

im only 17

 

Having just moved to Ohio from an "enhanced" emissions area in So Cal, and having had to build a motor for my 83 HO car while I lived there to replace the somewhat rowdy 400 that used to be in it, I can tell you a little about it....

There are no hoses or wires you can remove.

Put your A/C back together, you're not saving any power that amounts to anything that way, and you're just decreasing the resale value of the car by doing stuff like that to it.

Have you changed the rear end fluid lately? Then it needs it. Put synthetic fluid such as Mobil 1 back in it, with a bottle of GM posi additive if your rear is a posi. There's about 3 or 4 RWHP right there, probably 5 times as much as removing the A/C belt gave you.

Is your car a manual trans? If so, do the same thing. Another 2 to 3 RWHP.

What oil is in it? Put in Mobil 1 10W-30. That's about 3 crank HP over dinosaur juice.

Factory timing spec is 6° BTDC. The car will run much better at 10° BTDC.

Replace your fuel filter. A partly clogged one will make the car lean out after running at WOT for a few seconds.

De-computerizing one of these only does any good if your computer-controlled carb and distributor are in bad condition. The same goes for the smog pump and all that; it costs very little power, and since the laws require that you keep it in factory correct operating condition, resist the temptation to sodomize it.

Rebuild the carb, put a new throttle position sensor in it, and seal up the primary metering well plugs thoroughly. Put a new K&N air filter on it.

Put a new set of plugs, plug wires (good ones such as Taylor or MSD, not the cheeeepest thing that fits), rotor, & distributor cap on it.

Replace the oxygen sensor. If it hasn't been done for a while, it needs one.

Make sure the cat isn't stopped up.

Put 35 psi in the front tires, and about 32 in the rears. Get it aligned; the car's rolling resistance is quite a bit higher if all 4 wheels aren't pointing in the same direction.

All of these things are either stuff you should be doing, or should have already done, anyway; or will pay you back in decreased fuel use; or cost less than $10.

See this post for a few more comments. Keep in mind you have the L69 (HO) motor, not the LG4, so all the parts I refer to as "stock" on my car are also on yours. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=144575

 

How do you figure the HP gain?

 

im lost

 

RWHP = Rear Wheel Horse Power

Doesn't matter how much your engine puts out if it doesn't get to the rear wheels. Lower drive line loss = more power to the pavement.