I know a billion questions have been asked on the fan relays, but i think i have a wiring problem somewhere....
On my fan relays (dual electric fans), you've got 4 wires....1 brown (coil voltage, ALLWAYS hot, +12 V) on the left side, 1 orange (???) in the center, 1 tan (i beleive a switched coil ground running to the temp sending unit, or AC switch or ecm or something) on the left, and 1 black with a red stripe on top. The black one is the one running to the positive terminal on my fan.
Problem is i TEST 12 volts from the orange to ground with my volt meter, i test 12 volts to the fan so long as the ignition is on. BUT, the fans arent running, so i must not have voltage...I dont really understand what the hell is going on with this....the fan motors work i know. I think it is some sort of issue with the wiring.

Where (exactly) is that center orange wire running to? Bridging it does not turn my fans on (with ign on). I tried to test continuity from the wire to my fuse panel (The 20 amp H/C FAN fuse) and i get nothing...Is this my problem? Or does this wire run elsewhere and not to the fuse box? This is just really boggling me, because i'm testing 12 volts!!! Yet, the fan isnt running. But if i hook the fan straight to the battery or to the coil voltage line, it runs.....So i have a good motor, and i have power to it, yet.....it wont spin???
Arrrg.....I gotta know where this wire is going....thanks

 

The orange wires on both relays get 12v from a fuse link in the chassis and are hot all the time. The coil side of the relays are key controlled. You will notice the fan side of the relay uses heavier guage wires than the coil side. You can pull the relay plug and jump the 2 heavy guage wires with a suitable jumper and either fan should run with the key off depending on the relay. If the fan runs with the relay socket jumped plug the relay back in and see if it clicks when its time for fan operation. If it does the control circuit for the relay is working. Don't be fooled by voltage readings taken at the relay under "no load" conditions. Make sure when using a voltmeter that fan operation is called for. U can do that by jumping the ALDL connector to get codes. During code retrieval the primary fan is turned on by the ECM as a self test-its great for troubleshooting.