Coil Spring Isolators...(Yeah I know...its been beaten to death)
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From: Northern New Jersey
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
Coil Spring Isolators...(Yeah I know...its been beaten to death)
Im doing a suspension overhaul on my firebird and Im looking to get new coil spring isolators...I know that ES sells Poly ones and I can go to GM and get them direct. Id LIKE to get Poly ones but I cant measure the coil spring isolators I have now because they're on my Firebird (duh). Is there any company out there where you can just give them the year and the VIN and they can pull up a part # for isolators??? I DO have new coil springs...is there any way I can measure them and get the size I need for the isolators???? Worse comes to worse I'll go to GM and order/get 'em. If I go to GM directly can I just give them the year and the VIN???? Or do I have to go "deeper" than that?? Thanks in advance...
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I planned on getting new ES isolators when I did my rebuild but I had to wait too long so I went with the GM ones.
The ES isolators are here:
http://www.energysuspension.com/sboots.html
I'm pretty sure the P/N you want is Style A, #9-6108. I don't know if they 'll have them for ya or not. I'd just get the GM ones...$5 each. THese things really don't do that much...just lay there. (...insert joke here...)
Do a search for this topic and my name and you'll get more info.
Ed
The ES isolators are here:
http://www.energysuspension.com/sboots.html
I'm pretty sure the P/N you want is Style A, #9-6108. I don't know if they 'll have them for ya or not. I'd just get the GM ones...$5 each. THese things really don't do that much...just lay there. (...insert joke here...)
Do a search for this topic and my name and you'll get more info.
Ed
Originally posted by ebmiller88
...$5 each. THese things really don't do that much...just lay there. (...insert joke here...)
Do a search for this topic and my name and you'll get more info.
Ed
...$5 each. THese things really don't do that much...just lay there. (...insert joke here...)
Do a search for this topic and my name and you'll get more info.
Ed
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by aklaim
Except she cost me alot more than 5 bucks.:sillylol:
Except she cost me alot more than 5 bucks.:sillylol:
if i was single, i bet i would have a 9 sec car
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I think about that every now and then...."If I was single, I'd have..."
1. My own personal barstool at Hooters..
2. 2002 black on black M6 SS..
3. Real big dog..
4......
What's that?
.
.
.
.
.
Oh....coming dear!!!
(footsteps are heard...)
Ed
1. My own personal barstool at Hooters..
2. 2002 black on black M6 SS..
3. Real big dog..
4......
What's that?
.
.
.
.
.
Oh....coming dear!!!
(footsteps are heard...)
Ed
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Any point to replacing them? Looks like the originals are rubber around a steel center core; are the ES ones made like this, or are they solid polyurethane? Any benefit?
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
The fronts are just plain ol' rubber, only the rear isolators have the steel reinforcement.
Ed
Ed
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Member
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
I tried to buy poly ones (for the rear), but the only ones I could find were way too small in Diameter, I thought about enlarging them by splicing a coupe together (I work for a plastics company so getting the right adhesives isn't a problem), but after I got the GM ones I was glad I didn't. The GM ones have a metal core and are real sturdy, where the poly ones were flimsy....
Just get the GM ones, they work great.
As for he fronts they were nothing special, just a little foam ring as I recall
Just get the GM ones, they work great.
As for he fronts they were nothing special, just a little foam ring as I recall
Last edited by scanman717; Dec 11, 2002 at 09:36 AM.
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From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
I'm lowering my car next, and I was wondering if when you don't use the isolators do you not use them front and rear? Like, because didn't the front use one on the top and bottom? Would it make it too low in the front compared to the back or anything? Thanks.
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From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
As I recall the isolators are only on the tops of springs, and the front ones were very thin to begin with, and probably just to keep down the metal on metal squeek you might get without them.
As for the backs, I would not put in springs without them. They look like they not only provide cushion, but are molded in such a way that they actually help keep the spring in place...
As for the backs, I would not put in springs without them. They look like they not only provide cushion, but are molded in such a way that they actually help keep the spring in place...
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From: Marshall,IL
Car: 82 & 91 Firebird
Engine: 400 & 355
Transmission: TH350 & 700
Axle/Gears: 4:11 & 2.72
When I replaced the insolators in the rear, I gained almost an inch of ground clearance. Now if it stayed, I have no Idea.
Now I my wife only cost me $5, wouldn't I be in Heaven.
John
Now I my wife only cost me $5, wouldn't I be in Heaven.
John
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From: Northern New Jersey
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
Thanks for the info guys....is there anyway I can order the isolators over the internet from GM??? Granted I could go to my local Chevy Dealer but I just dont have the time....too many projects going on with not enough time to actually DO them...
Later..
Later..
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From: Northern New Jersey
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
Thanks aklaim~
I just ended up emailing GMpartsdirect because I dont see what I need. Have you guys had much success ordering parts from them WITHOUT telling them EXACTLY what you want??? It just seems whatever I do a search for they dont have a listing for. Go figure...
Thanks again...
I just ended up emailing GMpartsdirect because I dont see what I need. Have you guys had much success ordering parts from them WITHOUT telling them EXACTLY what you want??? It just seems whatever I do a search for they dont have a listing for. Go figure...
Thanks again...
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Pass on GMPD...call Dal Slabaugh at Van Devere Olds, he knows his stuff and won't charge you an arm and a leg for shipping. Plus, he actually KNOWS F-bodies and will get you the right part:
dal slabaugh
van devere pont-buick
877-448-5451
fax 330-658-4065
Ed
dal slabaugh
van devere pont-buick
877-448-5451
fax 330-658-4065
Ed
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From: Northern New Jersey
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: For me to know.....
Transmission: and you to find out....
ebmiller88~
How do you know Dal??? Ive emailed him about parts before...I got his email address from another "car group." I kinda feel bad because Ive emailed him once or twice before and hes given me great prices/info but for one reason or another I end up getting parts from a local dealer..Im always doing things last minute and if i can get a GM part in a less than 24 hours ill do it....if i have to spend a little more..screw it...ill do it.
Later..
How do you know Dal??? Ive emailed him about parts before...I got his email address from another "car group." I kinda feel bad because Ive emailed him once or twice before and hes given me great prices/info but for one reason or another I end up getting parts from a local dealer..Im always doing things last minute and if i can get a GM part in a less than 24 hours ill do it....if i have to spend a little more..screw it...ill do it.
Later..
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
so what exactly is the point of replacing the isolators? seems to me even if your old front ones are mushy they're thin and will deflect very little. the rears have steel in them so they won't deflect much either. besides, the springs are part of the suspension that's actually supposed to be moving. not bashing anyone, i'm just curious
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
so what exactly is the point of replacing the isolators?
How do you know Dal???
Ed
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ebmiller88
...those things are really hard with the steel in there, looked fine, and I went back to the "old" ones anyway. (rear sat too high)
The rear sat too high??? Can you go into a little more detail on that statement? For me personally Im very "big" on stock suspension. I dont go in for aftermarket wheels...bigger wheels...lowering springs ect ect. The reason I dont like that stuff is for alignment reasons. I dont do alignments where I work so once I get the suspension done in my car I'll be sending it out to be aligned. Id "like" to say everything is stock (alignment wise) and NOT say I did the suspension halfa$$..." so do the best you can." So was the rear sitting too high for you personally or did it just not look right? Granted its not a major alignment piece but my very curious about your statement about the rear sitting too high.
Later..
...those things are really hard with the steel in there, looked fine, and I went back to the "old" ones anyway. (rear sat too high)
The rear sat too high??? Can you go into a little more detail on that statement? For me personally Im very "big" on stock suspension. I dont go in for aftermarket wheels...bigger wheels...lowering springs ect ect. The reason I dont like that stuff is for alignment reasons. I dont do alignments where I work so once I get the suspension done in my car I'll be sending it out to be aligned. Id "like" to say everything is stock (alignment wise) and NOT say I did the suspension halfa$$..." so do the best you can." So was the rear sitting too high for you personally or did it just not look right? Granted its not a major alignment piece but my very curious about your statement about the rear sitting too high.
Later..
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Sure...
First, read this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=139574
I got new rear isolators from GM for my rebuild, and I swear these new ones are for 4th gens only. They made the rear sit too high even with Eibach Pro-Kit springs. As you can see, they are almost an inch thicker. So I put the old ones back and it's much better. Here's a pic of the 2 styles, the new GM isolators on the left, old steel-backed ones on the right. Next pic shows how high the rear sat when I got it back on the wheels.
More pics on my page in my sig.
HTH...Ed
First, read this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=139574
I got new rear isolators from GM for my rebuild, and I swear these new ones are for 4th gens only. They made the rear sit too high even with Eibach Pro-Kit springs. As you can see, they are almost an inch thicker. So I put the old ones back and it's much better. Here's a pic of the 2 styles, the new GM isolators on the left, old steel-backed ones on the right. Next pic shows how high the rear sat when I got it back on the wheels.
More pics on my page in my sig.
HTH...Ed
Last edited by ebmiller88; Dec 16, 2002 at 07:45 AM.
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From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
Originally posted by drop-top IROC
P/N's for GM coil isolators are:
Front - # 14047915
Rear - # 10290379
P/N's for GM coil isolators are:
Front - # 14047915
Rear - # 10290379
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
P/N's for GM coil isolators are:
Front - # 14047915
Rear - # 10290379
Front - # 14047915
Rear - # 10290379
Fronts are $4.13/ea and the rears are $7.84 /ea.
Ed
Last edited by ebmiller88; Jul 13, 2003 at 06:45 PM.
What springs do you have ed with my hotchkis i thought the back sat to much higher than the front so i added an extra isolater in the front evened it out a lil better.I still would like the back lil lower then ill just take the extra isolater out of the front.
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From: Northern New Jersey
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ebmiller~
I SHOULD have taken your advice way way way back when you said NOT to buy the rear isolators... I NOW understand what you were talking about. Oh well live and learn.
Dan
I SHOULD have taken your advice way way way back when you said NOT to buy the rear isolators... I NOW understand what you were talking about. Oh well live and learn.
Dan
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Ed, How much height did the 4th gen rear isolators add to the rear?
Here's more info on the topic with pics:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=isolators
Ed
Joined: May 2001
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From: Sac, CA
Car: '89 GTA
Axle/Gears: 3.27/9-bolt
so instead of making a new post, i thought i'd revive this one to try to solve my problems.
hopefully some of you old timers are still around.
quick background:
car has only 60K miles on the chassis, but still 16+ years old.
i've got the eibach pro-kit all around for the past 2 years or so.
did not change any of the isolators.
KYB's all around at the same time.
my fronts are great, rears sit too high for my liking, and the passenger side is definitely a bit higher than the driver on the rear.
can i do anything to correct the uneveness and also have them equally lower a bit more?
also, i've had a persistant squeeking around the rear wheel well, mainly on the pass side where it sits higher, for the past year or so..
would love to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. ..any ideas?
hopefully some of you old timers are still around.
quick background:
car has only 60K miles on the chassis, but still 16+ years old.
i've got the eibach pro-kit all around for the past 2 years or so.
did not change any of the isolators.
KYB's all around at the same time.
my fronts are great, rears sit too high for my liking, and the passenger side is definitely a bit higher than the driver on the rear.
can i do anything to correct the uneveness and also have them equally lower a bit more?
also, i've had a persistant squeeking around the rear wheel well, mainly on the pass side where it sits higher, for the past year or so..
would love to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. ..any ideas?
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Happy Thanksgiving..
I'd look to be sure the rear springs and isolators are fully seated in the rear pockets. If not this will throw your ride off and by the way you described it I think this is your problem, hence the squeaking as something may be moving around. I'd jack up the rear to take the tension off the springs and see if you can reseat them. I'd bet this is your issue.
If you want it lower as well, you may want to cut an inch or two off the upper end of the spring, this should do it.
And who are you calling an "old timer"?
Ed
I'd look to be sure the rear springs and isolators are fully seated in the rear pockets. If not this will throw your ride off and by the way you described it I think this is your problem, hence the squeaking as something may be moving around. I'd jack up the rear to take the tension off the springs and see if you can reseat them. I'd bet this is your issue.
If you want it lower as well, you may want to cut an inch or two off the upper end of the spring, this should do it.
And who are you calling an "old timer"?
Ed
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Coil Spring Isolators...(Yeah I know...its been beaten to death)
If I was single I'd have a lift in my garage, a nice welder, and probably no money.
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From: Rochester NY
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
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Joined: May 2020
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From: Holiday Florida
Car: 89' Pontiac Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7 liter
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Coil Spring Isolators...(Yeah I know...its been beaten to death)
I planned on getting new ES isolators when I did my rebuild but I had to wait too long so I went with the GM ones.
The ES isolators are here:
http://www.energysuspension.com/sboots.html
I'm pretty sure the P/N you want is Style A, #9-6108. I don't know if they 'll have them for ya or not. I'd just get the GM ones...$5 each. THese things really don't do that much...just lay there. (...insert joke here...)
Do a search for this topic and my name and you'll get more info.
Ed
The ES isolators are here:
http://www.energysuspension.com/sboots.html
I'm pretty sure the P/N you want is Style A, #9-6108. I don't know if they 'll have them for ya or not. I'd just get the GM ones...$5 each. THese things really don't do that much...just lay there. (...insert joke here...)
Do a search for this topic and my name and you'll get more info.
Ed
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,809
Likes: 906
From: MICHIGAN
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 2.73 Open
Re: Coil Spring Isolators...(Yeah I know...its been beaten to death)
That will happen after close to 20 years.
You may want to contact Energy Suspension directly, and see if they still make the item you are looking for.
You may want to contact Energy Suspension directly, and see if they still make the item you are looking for.
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