I have replaced all of the following, IAC, tps about 4.36 at wot, egr vaccume silanoid, cap, rotor, ign module, coil, plugs, wires, 02 sensor. That whole motor is prectically new. Also all new injectores, fuel filter, check fuel pressure is fine. The car runs liek crap at 180+ and i don't knwo what the deal is, it studders and pops like crazy. I have an ses light on for code 13, which is o2 sensor. This is about 6 months old, could it be bad. I know it activates around that temp so thats all I can think of. I'm getting sick of throwing money into this goddamn car fast! Any help would be great

 

Okay now has a new o2 sensor and still runs horrible. I am now getting code 32 all over again, and it has a brand new everything besides the valave, I can put a vacume on the valve and the diaphram lifts right up like it should, it doesn't hold the vacumme though, it slowly decreases like in 2 mins its gone or a lil less. Is this bad? Any help would be great and I am running out of money way to fats and getting pissed off quick. Thanks

 

I even took of the vac line running to the valve and tried that, nothing. I was thinking maybe my wires and plugs are crap, but i don't think so, cuase they are like 6 month old, also why would it throw a code 32 with that? Thanks

 

you sure you dont have a vacume leak? plugs arent foulig up? you getting a hot spark on each plug? you check compression of every cylinder and then check again with a drop of oil on the piston for ring condition?
cat not clogged?

 

is your car mass air or map? if it is either id replace that sensor.
also check your tps?

and check for a intake manifold leak

 

timing also could be off. thats what id expect from an intake back/afterfire

 

ok slow down. Check the plugs, are they black? I would have taken the car to either the dealer or a good mechanic for a diagnosis (cost under a hundred bux, far less than all of those parts you just replaced). I'd check it for ya, but diagnosing a problem over a text window is difficult. Let me know about the plugs and I can give you a direction to go (maybe).

 

Thanks guys, I have replaced all the vac line my car has. I still get code 32. I will check the plugs tomorrow morning and see what color they are. I'm wondering if the egr is bad, but i still don't knwo what would cause code 32 to come up. Like i said, the things runs like a new car when its cold, but when its hot, forget it. A vaccume leak wouldn't cuase that. I was going to buy new wires an dplugs but will hold off, i hope you can help. Thanks

 

Do I have to pull all the plugs? They are a pain to get with the ac in my car

 

Don't be a wuss! (j/k) My car did somthing similar back when it was a 2.8. It ended up being O2 sensor RELATED, the actual problem was the ECM though. If it's only doing it when hot, I would Normally suspect the ICM or Coil...but since you already replaced them..... After getting back to me about the plugs, try forcing a limp mode and seeing how it runs, that way you can rule out certain things. Good luck.

 

code 32 troubleshooting for 85 car, see if it works for your car


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Ok i took the plugs out, they are clean, however are white/grayish. The electrode is is good shape. I don't know if this helps you or not though. How do I force it in limp mood? Yeah it only does it when above 180, today i took it out, ran great when it was cold, then it went above 180 and it was like night and day. Thanks again man, if you can help it will be awesome.

 

I notice ya got a stick
What rpms does this problem occur at?
Is it same RPMS as when cold?
Is that a clue?
Ya running in closed loop mode when warm, am I correct?
PERHAPS your cold injector is still sending fuel (after cold cycle is over) & ya engine being flooded with extra unecessary fuel?
Can ya "see" exhaust when poor drivability occurs? Notice black smoke?

 

It happens when warm, correct. It happens between 1000-2500 sometimes 3000. When you get it higher, gets some power back. It does not smoke at all. It seems to be worse underload. liek if i rev it up in N, it goes up no problem, but pops and backfires a little. Then when you strat in first gr, its horrible, just about goes. The problem does noy at all exist when the motor is cold. Thanks again guys, i have no idea anymore

 

Maybe it's those Boston Red Sox Beans ya use for gas?
Sorry a funny!
I think fuel related. Like too much.
Have you cleared engine codes?

 

Yes i clear them each time I put a new part in it.

 

I'll throw out my theory.
You will know the answer to this thought.
I say you knocked off the Main PVC Vacuum feed line in back of engine, on driver side, located next to distributor.
I say that the hose is weakened/damaged/not on correctly and the cold temp keep rubber tight, upon warmed up environment, it expands and what happens, happens.
My theory.
It's 1/2" VERY THICK WALLED heater hose, about 3" in length. Bitch to replace.
I also read you did work on vacuum lines. Perhaps, just not well enough. I have had to remove the top intake to work on/replace vacuum lines.
Hope this is a clue.
PS High RPMS are causing the rubber to "suck dry" close up the gap.

 

I wil check it when i get out of work today, do i just follow that pvc hose from the valve cover back? Thanks

 

Yeah that's one sure way to find that fitting.
VERY VERY difficult to see with the top intake piece on.
BUT what ya describing, that may be the cause.
Especially IF ya never replaced it.
Hope it was a good clue.
PS Have rags handy as it'll be greasy back there!

 

Thanks man, i did look today and followed it back, no breaks in those lines, They look fine and moved them around, I noticed the problem when i got on it kinda har done day, i'm wondering about the plugs, so i will pick some up tomorrow and replace them. If that doesn't work what should i do? That PVC line is thick, where is this greese? My engine is clean, so maybe thats why, not sure. I know i had my egr lines replaced before PITA. Any other help wouodl be greats, thanks again man