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please help, i'm stupid

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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 07:12 AM
  #1  
1meanGTA's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
please help, i'm stupid

i've gone and done it this time, i pulled my distributor and changed the gear, but i forgot to mark my distributor's position before i pulled it out, so the rotor isnt in time with the cylinders anymore. now it wont start. is there any way besides trying each tooth until it starts to find where it needs to be?
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 07:43 AM
  #2  
Danno's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
Nobody is stupid, I prefer the absent minded excuse. Here's what to do. First, remove the #1 spark plug-driver side very front plug. Put your finger over the open hole and have someone tap the starter until you feel pressure then stop. Find the #1 plug wire and drop the dist in so the rotor contact lines up with the #1 wire on the cap. Make sure the dist is fully seated to engage the oil pump, it may wander a little when it goes in, don't worry you can adjust it when you set the timing. Another way is to use a soda straw, insert it into #1 plug hole and tap the starter until the straw moves up. Unfortunately with that technique you can be 180 deg out since you don't know whether you are on a compression or exhaust stroke. A compression tester is nice also if you can borrow one. After it is running disconnect the EST set timing connector and set the base timing. Reconnect the EST and power down the ECM because the set timing connector when unplugged will set a SES code.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:19 AM
  #3  
1meanGTA's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
there would be no compression on an exhaust stroke right?
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:33 AM
  #4  
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From: New Mexico
Car: 87 Firebird,
Engine: lq4
Transmission: gto t56 (mn12)
You are correct. The compression is actually being pushed out the exhuast valves into your exhaust. This is when the piston is moving up in the cylinders. On a compression stroke the same thing is happening but all your valves are closed. So the gas and air has nowhere to go. This is what compresses it. Forcing a large volume of air and gas into a small space. Then when it fires the piston shoots down. Your cylinder is now filled with spent gasses so the next time the piston moves up it has to push all that spent gas out. This is when your exhaust valve opens and lets it out. Get a book about engines so you can see some pictures of whats happening. Better yet learn the way I did. Tear apart your motor and try to figure it out. Ya that sux.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 02:25 PM
  #5  
rgarcia63's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
If you're going solo: plug the #1 spark plug hole with something as you bump the starter on the compression stroke the plug will pop out, but the Timing mark may be before DTC so you'll have to turn it by hand the rest of the way. if it's after DTC then turn it back pass DTC and then forward to take up the chain slack.

Since the distributor drives the oil pump orienting the Distributor before you pull it out will make it easier when putting it back in.

First, Pull the cap of the distributor.
Next, rotate the engine manually, or using the starter until the Rotor is pointing where the #1 spark plug wire on the cap should be.
Then, disconnect the Distributor, remove hold down clamp, and pull it out.
Note: the distributor gear will cause the shaft to turn a few degrees as it's coming out.
Now, find the TDC of the compression stroke (see first paragraph.)
Finally, stab the Distributor in with the Rotor pointing to where it was when you pulled it out. Put the Cap on with the #1 spark plug wire post aligned with the rotor.

Connect all the electrical stuff, and fire it up. It won't be dead on, just close enough to start up and idle, which is what you need to set the timing to spec.

Last edited by rgarcia63; Apr 3, 2005 at 05:04 AM.
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