I have my fuel rail all ripped apart to polish do a few things to. But i fought for at least 2 hours trying to get the fuel lines out of the rail, with no success. But I was wondering if I can run braided fuel line all the way to the FPR w/o problems. Also has anyone done it? Is this a good way to go? all I'm looking for is to get rid of those pain in the butt stiff stock lines and replace them w/ some flexible braided line. Thanks for any comments

Jason

I have some pictures but the quality is sooo bad I didnt post them. let me know if pics would help the explaination.

 

All the way to the AFPR ?

Why not just to the Fittings on the rail ?

 

I wanted to eliminate the stiff lines all together!!

 

Eh well good luck... lol

 

The way Bort has it done is probly the only thing you can do with retaining the stock fuel rails/stock TPI setup.

 

bort you got a part number for those 2 fittings id like to swap to braided lines for mine,thanks.

 

well maybe I will just do that then...so bort how long are the lines? And yea what are the part # for the fittings.

 

I got all my stuff through Speedtoys.com - it's XRP fittings and line.

I don't have the Pn#'s off hand but if you contact Jeff at Speedtoys he can take care of it.

One thing to note, is that TPIS is the only company i could find that has the Female saginaw x -6AN fittings you need for the framerail side, so you will ahve to get that part from them to screw into the factory framerails.

 

thanks for the reply

 

Hey...i have one of the fittings you need. Its like a $7 fitting..i'll sell it to you for $5 shipped

 

This is what you need: Jegs Part number 310-74730
Summit part # ACC-74730
This will allow you to connect AN fittings to the fuel rail.

For the lines coming from the tank you will need Earl's 9894DBH and 9894DBJ fuel fittings
Summit part #'s: EAR-9894DBJ, EAR-9894DBH

 

Do something like this..





Then just mod the lines back by the firewall and your all set.

6an return and 8an feed

plug the front.

 

I used the following part #'s to make factory hard lines -6AN fittings.


1 991954 Fuel Injection/Power Steering Adapter. Male O-Ring Seal 6.66 6.66 T
1 991955 Fuel Injector/Power Steering Adapter 6.66 6.66 T
1 9894DBH 14x1.5mm to -6 Male Adapter 5.87 5.87 T
1 9894DBJ Female Saginaw to AN Male Adapter 5.87 5.87 T
Shipping Shipping 10.50 10.50


Out-of-state sale, exempt from sales tax 0.0% 0.00




Total
$35.56

Those are all Earl part numbers. I then used Earls braided hose aprox. 2 foot lenghts for feed and return and a 2) 90 degree swivel -6AN fittings for fuel rail side and 2) 110 degree swivel -6AN fittings for the hard lines on the driver's chasis. I had to modify alternater/p.steering bracket to run them up over top of engine. I will post pics after i insatll them.

 

991954 & 991955 installed to fuel lines on frame.

 

9894DBH & 9894DBJ installed on fuel rail.

 

Braided lines to fuel rail.

 

Braided lines to tubes on frame.

 

Finished view.

 

wow thanks for all the good info I think I will tweak with that then

 

When you get all finished, and the engine is running like you want, cut your original fuel linse apart. Don't be too surprized to find reinforcement wire in the hose. After dealing with 10,000+ PSI hydraulic hoses in all kinds of operating environments, I still can't understand the desire for an UNCOVERED outer reinforcement braid. Those things are avoided like the plague in almost any other application, since the exposed braid is actually a weakness.

Then again, I'm probably spoiled. When you TRY to blow up hydraulic cylinders and accumulators at 15-18,000 PSIG, you use the best parts you can get....

 

Blue and red fittings with stainless steel braid looks way better than a nasty rubber hose.

 

Vader,

The hose I use also has a half braid going through it too.