Roll Cage Question
07-01-2003, 10:44 PM
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Roll Cage Question
It's getting to be that time where i'm gonna have to put a cage in my car and I was just wondering who makes the best kit for a third gen Camaro, either 8 or 10 point, and if anyone could post some pics of their cages
07-01-2003, 11:53 PM
#2
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http://www.spohn.net/index.cfm?fusea...t&productid=35
http://www.spohn.net/oldsite/z28.htm
i have other suspension pieces from spohn and like them alot, but i dont have his roll cage, or any roll cage right now.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
http://www.spohn.net/oldsite/z28.htm
i have other suspension pieces from spohn and like them alot, but i dont have his roll cage, or any roll cage right now.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...roll+cage+pics
07-02-2003, 09:54 PM
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Would anyone happen to have any pics of the competition engineering 10 point cage installed, I saw the pics of the cage installed on the Spohn project car but I didn't like the way the side bars arched up so high.
07-03-2003, 10:29 PM
#5
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Originally posted by SteveSpohn
The side bars must run from the driver's shoulder to elbow to meet NHRA requirements.
The side bars must run from the driver's shoulder to elbow to meet NHRA requirements.
an 8 point cage is much easier to install, and is about all you should need anyways......it doesnt limit access to the car as much either
07-04-2003, 03:02 AM
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Car: too many ...
There is always the possibility of fabrication. If you dont like whats for sale on the market you can make one yourself or take it to a local rollcage fabricator and have him make it to your specs. I couldnt find a rollcage for my needs (needed a roadracing rollcage, not a dragracing rollcage) so I ended up making one myself. Costs $99 for the tube notcher and another $100 for materials (barrowed the welder). Costs around the same as a pre-made kit the first time, but in the long run I'll be able to make more cages for cheap.
07-05-2003, 11:16 AM
#7
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the only time a road racing cage should or would need to be very different from a drag racing cage would be if one car or the other is a tube chassis and the cage is part of the actual chassis.
the goal in building a cage for roadracing or for drag racing is the same, to stiffen the chassis for much better response to power application or handling. the chassis is stiffened both longtidudinal and torsionally.
the only difference might be for all out road racing, you may want a 10 or a 12 point cage for the added safety in a rollover....which are used in drag racing, usually in tube chassis cars though.
If you draw a cage in auto cad, you will see that the stresses and tensions are fairly universal. the principles applied to a roll cage are the same for most types of racing
the goal in building a cage for roadracing or for drag racing is the same, to stiffen the chassis for much better response to power application or handling. the chassis is stiffened both longtidudinal and torsionally.
the only difference might be for all out road racing, you may want a 10 or a 12 point cage for the added safety in a rollover....which are used in drag racing, usually in tube chassis cars though.
If you draw a cage in auto cad, you will see that the stresses and tensions are fairly universal. the principles applied to a roll cage are the same for most types of racing
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07-05-2003, 11:46 PM
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The principles applied to a roll cage are the same for most types of racing if the goal is just to strengthen the chassis. But what if your goal is also to build a car that can handle impacts? Different goals require different designs.
My sport is quite different from the rest of the stuff out there. Its a mix between roadracing and dirt track racing, but it takes place on pavement. The probability of crashing is pretty high when you push the limits or try new techniques. Because of this, the cage needs to do more than just strengthen the chassis. It also needs to protect the driver from rollovers and side impacts. Ultimately, it needs to be able to handle an impact and keep racing. I'm building my cage like a dirt track (circle track) cage, but I'm taking it a step further building a full chassis cage. My car isn't a tube frame car, its a stock unibody chassis with a cage welded on top. The cage extends from the radiator support to the trunk. The doors are gutted and the cage extends out into the door shell. Here's a picture to help you visualize what the interior cage looks like:
They do sell the kit, but for the same price I could buy the tube notcher and the rest of the materials locally (and barrow a friends MIG). I opted for the second choice because now I can make anything I want.
My sport is quite different from the rest of the stuff out there. Its a mix between roadracing and dirt track racing, but it takes place on pavement. The probability of crashing is pretty high when you push the limits or try new techniques. Because of this, the cage needs to do more than just strengthen the chassis. It also needs to protect the driver from rollovers and side impacts. Ultimately, it needs to be able to handle an impact and keep racing. I'm building my cage like a dirt track (circle track) cage, but I'm taking it a step further building a full chassis cage. My car isn't a tube frame car, its a stock unibody chassis with a cage welded on top. The cage extends from the radiator support to the trunk. The doors are gutted and the cage extends out into the door shell. Here's a picture to help you visualize what the interior cage looks like:
They do sell the kit, but for the same price I could buy the tube notcher and the rest of the materials locally (and barrow a friends MIG). I opted for the second choice because now I can make anything I want.
07-06-2003, 04:26 PM
#10
Supreme Member
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian
The principles applied to a roll cage are the same for most types of racing if the goal is just to strengthen the chassis. But what if your goal is also to build a car that can handle impacts? Different goals require different designs.
My sport is quite different from the rest of the stuff out there. Its a mix between roadracing and dirt track racing, but it takes place on pavement. The probability of crashing is pretty high when you push the limits or try new techniques. Because of this, the cage needs to do more than just strengthen the chassis. It also needs to protect the driver from rollovers and side impacts. Ultimately, it needs to be able to handle an impact and keep racing. I'm building my cage like a dirt track (circle track) cage, but I'm taking it a step further building a full chassis cage. My car isn't a tube frame car, its a stock unibody chassis with a cage welded on top. The cage extends from the radiator support to the trunk. The doors are gutted and the cage extends out into the door shell. Here's a picture to help you visualize what the interior cage looks like:
They do sell the kit, but for the same price I could buy the tube notcher and the rest of the materials locally (and barrow a friends MIG). I opted for the second choice because now I can make anything I want.
The principles applied to a roll cage are the same for most types of racing if the goal is just to strengthen the chassis. But what if your goal is also to build a car that can handle impacts? Different goals require different designs.
My sport is quite different from the rest of the stuff out there. Its a mix between roadracing and dirt track racing, but it takes place on pavement. The probability of crashing is pretty high when you push the limits or try new techniques. Because of this, the cage needs to do more than just strengthen the chassis. It also needs to protect the driver from rollovers and side impacts. Ultimately, it needs to be able to handle an impact and keep racing. I'm building my cage like a dirt track (circle track) cage, but I'm taking it a step further building a full chassis cage. My car isn't a tube frame car, its a stock unibody chassis with a cage welded on top. The cage extends from the radiator support to the trunk. The doors are gutted and the cage extends out into the door shell. Here's a picture to help you visualize what the interior cage looks like:
They do sell the kit, but for the same price I could buy the tube notcher and the rest of the materials locally (and barrow a friends MIG). I opted for the second choice because now I can make anything I want.
ya i agree, the safety and impact resistance aspects of that type of cage are just for that purpose though.....the rest of the cage, or the basic links that are found in most cages accomplish the same purpose in all types of racing....
i think we are saying the same thing 2 different ways
07-06-2003, 04:27 PM
#11
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Originally posted by Zac's92
1
1
07-06-2003, 05:55 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by 383backinblack
thats a creative x-brace
thats a creative x-brace
07-06-2003, 09:45 PM
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Car: 87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 406-Mini Ram-AFR 195's-DFI Gen 6.32
Transmission: 700-R4 w/Art Carr converter
Axle/Gears: 9" - 31 spline - 3:89
NoLimits....I have a S&W 6 point in my car with the swing out side bar kit . It makes it easy to get in and out of the car and when I am running around on the street I remove the side bars. I saw pics in GM High Tech of the S&W cage they put in the 396 Firebird and the side bars are curved more for ease of getting in and out and to clear the arm rest/door pull. S&W offers these side bars specifically for third-gens. Give them a call.
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