Here's some more photo's. I'm still trying to get the hang of my digital camera.
Hope this gives you some idea of what my heads look like.

 

Chamber and bowls

 

Intake bowl

 

Exhaust bowl

 

Modified chamber

 

looks good. i'm no head expert....... and don't plan on being hahah

 

Any flow numbers? Edit: (found them here... https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=211455)

Great looking port job there! Some of the best photos I have seen of stock heads...thanks!

You seem to have quite a bit of room behind the valve guide on the intake port...furthest point away from the entrance. Did you create this room through porting, or was this amount of room already there?

Also...what tools did you use to get those hard to reach spots?

 

Wow. Awesome job!

I hope mine look that good when I'm finished. What did you use other than carbide bits? Any other tips?

 

The only tools I've used for porting have been a die grinder and .these two carbide bits here. The 6" shank realy makes life easy.

 

With the 6" carbide you can get right up inside the port from the intake side and tidy up the base of the guide boss. This long carbide also made it easy for raising the roof of the port.

 

Another advantage of the long shank is that you don't have to worry about the chuck of the die grinder hitting the valve seat when you are cutting down the guide boss from the chamber side.

 

Very nicely done....

 

Thanks for the info. I have a the same 6" carbide bit with the cylinder on the end. What is the one with the small ball on the end for? To smooth things out? Also, what are you using for pressure on your compressor. I was using 45 PSI and just wanted to make sure this is a good pressure.

 

I use the small carbided cutter to clean up the side of the guide boss closest to the middle of the chamber or what is known as the intake runner inside wall. It's better at forming the tight radius at the base of the guide boss and shapeing the side of the guide boss furthest from the intake manifold face, same for the exhaust port .

My compressor is set at about 95psi and I just use the die grinder leaver to control the speed. At the end of the day I guess its what ever you feel comfortable with.

 

Here's one other tool I use, I had it for checking the installed height of my valve springs but I also found it realy good for masureing various points of the runner and then comparing it to the other runners. It can be hard to tell just by eye sometimes, so those measurements and if you can be bothered ccing each runner help keep things consistant.
Don't spend hours hoging out one runner at a time because it can become quite daunting to then stand back and realalise that you now have to bring all the other stock looking ports up to the standard of your finished one.
I've found it better to do a certain job in a port and then do the same thing to all the other ports at the same time, you then go back to your first port make another small change and then do all the rest.

 

Kitch,

You are clearly talented at metal working! Beautifully done

 

you get those carbide parts at a home depot type place? if so got any part numbers or names that i should look for when i get there?

 

Your work looks excellent!
but what are you going to do about the big gaping holes in the center exhaust ports? They cost 15 cfm on the bench. I weld mine closed.

 

I filled mine with molten aluminum. ( an old cast piston)

Bathroom tile grout works too.

 

www.use-enco.com, best prices I've found for carbide cutters, they have singe and double cut ones too as well as regular and extended shanks.

 

link no workey...got another link for bits?

 

If you take the comma off of the end it works fine

 

Tile grout will work in the EGR passages? I have some laying around...

Good work on the porting, it looks really good! I'm finishing up my heads and they look similar, just not as detailed...

 

Kitch- Its hard to tell from the photo but what is the burr diamter of that long clyinder shaped one that you use? 3/8th?

Also, did you have a problem with hitting the seats at all? I am gonna port my heads but dont want a new valve job?

 

AllGoNoShow,
Yes it is 3/8" diameter. I have been lucky enough not to hit any of the seats. You just need to take your time when you're blending the bowl up to the seat. If you only have carbide cutters like me then it's best to leave the last part of blending up to the seat until the end of your porting job because...
1) The carbide will have dulled off a bit and won't cut as agressively as when new.
2) The control over your die grinder will be improved from all the practice you've had from porting the rest of the heads.

Has anyone tried a 30 degree valve seat on a 1.94" valve in a 416 head only unshrouded for a 3.75" bore??

 

Thanks for the reply...one more question...where did you get that micrometer thing that you used to measure the ports?(and can also be used for valve spring height)