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Question on Valve Adjustment

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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 11:57 AM
  #1  
CALIROCZ28's Avatar
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Question on Valve Adjustment

Hey guys I'm tring to adjust my valves and have question for all you wizards out there. I have a '89 Iroc with a '91 L98 from a corvette. When adjusting the valves with the motor running does it matter where you start at? I know the lash should be 0+1 to 1 1/2. Is this determined by engine load ie; tighten until a change in the motor and then back off a half turn and wait for the motor to stabilize and then proceed to the next? Should the exhaust and the intake for the same cyclinder be done together or should all the intake be done and then exhaust? It's been such a long time since I've needed to do this seems I forgot.

Since I'm doing the adjustment as I write this Any immedate responses would be helpful and much appreciated.

Thanks!

CalIrocZ28
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 12:01 PM
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RB83L69's Avatar
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That's not how to do it.

Loosen each one until it begins to tick; then tighten it back until it just barely quits ticking. When you've done all 16 that way, shut the engine off, and turn them all another ½ turn. It doesn't matter what cyl you start with, or whether it's I or E, or anything else of the kind. None of that has anything to do with the amount of slack in the cam, lifter, push rod, rocker arm, and valve stem.
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 12:29 PM
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Thanks RB, I'm going to go attempt that in a few.

Confirming that there should be no play in the rockers or any movement in the rockers once it is done? is this correct
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 01:13 PM
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There probably will be. Doesn't matter. Ignore it. Just follow the instructions and life will be good.
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 01:13 PM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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the rockers will move with the engine off and no oil preasure in the lifters, also no load on the lifters when both valves are closed will make rockers move.
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 02:09 PM
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Originally posted by RB83L69
That's not how to do it.

Loosen each one until it begins to tick; then tighten it back until it just barely quits ticking. When you've done all 16 that way, shut the engine off, and turn them all another ½ turn. It doesn't matter what cyl you start with, or whether it's I or E, or anything else of the kind. None of that has anything to do with the amount of slack in the cam, lifter, push rod, rocker arm, and valve stem.
yup. this is the only sure way to get it right. it's going to be messy cause oil will spray everywhere but it's what needs to be done. you can go bank to bank for ease. side to side play in the rocker arm is fine, but you don't want up and down play. I don't know if you are running aftermarket heads/rockers/studs but make sure you get rocker studs the proper length. I had a set of rocker studs that were too short and while most of the polylocks held in place two liked to wiggle loose and start ticking. one actually fell off and caused a backfire out the intake, all because the studs were too short for the polylocks to function properly. the polys should be flush with the nut.
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 02:54 PM
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CALIROCZ28's Avatar
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Ok guys thanks so much! I think I've got her adjusted. I followed your method RB8 and it sounds like I think it should be. I'll give it a test drive to see if I got it done correctly or not.

But thank you to all who replied so rapidly. Much appreciated. I hope I can return the favor to all of you sometime.

CALIROCZ28
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Old Dec 14, 2003 | 02:57 PM
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Great!! Enjoy.
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