well i'm looking at putting the 3.4 litre into my car and iw as wondering if i could literally just drop the sucker in a plug everything in. i can get a complete one including harness


or do i have to use the parts off my 2.8 like said in the tech article?

basically will the engine work without the 2. parts in my 88 sc or do i need them to make the engine work

 

have to use the parts off my 2.8 like said in the tech article

 

check out the threads from KED85 ... he has a very well written thread on this swap ... with a picture!

 

yeah i checked out his stuff just making sure, i don't feel like buying a complete 3.4 if i have to use parts of my 2.8i'd rather get a 3.4 thats not complete then for cheaper

 

I don't think you will want to swap the engine and all its controals to a later year for a V6.
Reuse the 2.8 stuff, and you won't have to buy 3.4 stuff.

 

alright since my car is manual and ked85 was auto anyone know what i need thats different ?

basically i'm gonna buy a new performance distributor, new water pump and i just wanna know what else i should put cash aside for?


since i'm gonna do the swap anyways i figure i should give the engine new stuff instead of the old tired crap from my 2.8

 

Auto/Manual, just make sure you get a manual flywheel for a 3.1/3.4. Make sure you put the poilit shaft bushing in the crank.

Everything else is same as tech artical.

I did install a 3.4 engine, intake, wireharness, ecm into my s10. It was neat, interesting, but not practical for daily use. The benifits of the extra work is not worth it. Stick to the karl boogie swap, you will be much more pleased.

 

so basically just do the stealth swap and make sure i have a flywheel for a 3.4 ltr with the proper pilot bushing


thanx that helps alot man also do i need a new gauge cluster?

 

You won't need one. The swap uses most of the 3.4, just the intake and distributor are added from the 2.8L

 

alright just figured i'd ask, i'm starting to make a list of stuff to go hunting for this weekend

 

You're gonna love the NEW v6 under your hood. Do yourself a favor and dd a nice cam to the list, along with some ported heads. DOn't cheap out either

 

i was thinking bout the heads, my plan is to get the 3.4 block in about a week or 2 send the heads out to be done along with the injectors(cleaning) but what kinda cam should i add?


i'm pretty much gonna have a brand new 3.4 ltr under my hood and probably rebuild the tranny, since the engines out and i gotta do the clutch might as well

 

Get a crane mechanical cam, they make 2 get the smaller of the 2.
I would have it, but I need some thing that I can use with boost.
The mechanical cam and higher c/r will make lots of power.

 

my plan for this engine was to add a turbo a little down the road would that still be the best cam for it?

 

if thats your plan, then save the cash and do it with the boost. Go get some rockers, or something else then.

Now would be the best time for cam, but since your going to boost it, do that later.

Make sure you get new timing chain

 

yeah timing chain is a must, there is a bolt on kit for the 3.4 (turbo) is there not?

i remeber reading somewhere there was one out but if not i'll do the cam now and do the probably next summer

 

the 3.4 turbo kit is kinda still in R&D, but all the piping is routed for the 4th gen, not a 3rd gen.

 

Mechanical n/a cam is bad for boost. an ok cam for low to med boost is my crane 272 cam.

 

so if i don't plan on getting boost for a while go with a mechanical?

 

Yea, get the mechanical cam and sell it on ebay when your done with it.

 

I take it you mean Tiago's kit? Vortex and I are still working on the 3rd gen 60º Turbo Kits - we've been working on the tune, reworking a couple of things. I did get a quick race, with a really bad tune, against an '03 Crown Vic Sport (runs a 15 flat)

Results?

5psi @ 2000 rpm, 2nd gear stab, 12psi @ 3200, HELLACIOUS top end pull, and the Crown Vic is left like he was standing still.

It's very strange with a turbo... Takes off like the torquey V6 it is, but around 2400 rpm or so, it just kind of pushes you back, and keeps pushing you harder back until about 4500rpm or so, where you're like 'OMG!'

I know we haven't posted much lately on it. But I will say this - we got 15psi, with no detonation. Unfortunately, I managed to bust the slave cylinder, so I've got to replace the clutch hydraulics.

 

thanks for all the help guys

 

Everytime you drive that thing you break something. Eventually the whole car will be new!

 

I recently swapped in a 3.4 to replace the 2.8 MPFI engine which was about to grenade on a '85 Camaro. It was on it's last leg.

It's a 5 speed and I installed all the tin, timing cover, WaterP, and the distributer from the 2.8 onto the 3.4 according to recommendations in several recipes.

Used the 3.4 neutral flywheel for the clutch plate and resurfaced the clutch flywheel.

The only problem is I have a MAF code now, happened once on the 2.8 BTW when I replaced it last, and a hard virbration at about 3100 when shifting the lower gears. Cruise is fine. I am using the 3.4's injectors. Other things occuring: 115 blv's and a rich signal on the scanner at idle, but it does go back and forth sometimes. I assume this is a lean condition.

Was wondering if I used the wrong damper. I used the 2.8 since it looked like the 3.4's without the additional sensor crap and was newer. I am also thinking about balancing out the whole flywheel with the clutch flywheel as one unit.

Anybody else actually do this swap that can help?

 

your vibration may very well be the 2.8 blancer, esp if it was on an 85 model. If you still have the 3.4 one, install it.

Rest of it sounds like you did the swap correct.

I have a sometimes lean, then sometimes rich condition also. I feel I have a sensor screwed up, but no way to scan it.

 

Definitely need the 3.4 balancer...thats likely the source of the vibration problem.

 

HI All
Can't say how pleased I am to have offered a still informative swap boogie thread back then.
In all seriousness,
do as I SUGGEST
ya get the project done & up & running.
Take 3.4 injectors & the newer rubber stuff under 3.4 Fuel Pressure Regulator, onto/into the COMPLETE!!!2.8 induction system.
Onto the engine KEEP the 3.4 balancer, flywheel/flexplate.
From 2.8 (UP to CERTAIN YEARS), keep the timing chain/oil pan matched set.
Reuse the 2.8 distributor (rebuild it per my rebuild article).
Reuse original 2.8 engine motor mounts.
Go get headers from PaceSetter Exhaust
Have fun.
Ask any questions
YOU DO WANT A COMPLETE DRESSED 3.4 LONG BLOCK.
THAT WAY you know for certain, all the stuff is 3.4 proper. That really is to your advantage.
AND SOME 3.4 stuff can be used instead of original vehicle stuff (power stering pump, body engine frame mounts, MAYBE alternator, too).
Also ask if ya can score the 3.4 Cat Convertor. It's a very high flow unit from AC Delco.
AND that larger 4th gen 2 1/2" "I" pipe will certainly fit your 3rd Gen F body.
Plan your swap as sanitary as possible. Less guessing in end after the swap is "done".
I'm going on many miles on my used 3.4 swap in the Firebird.
Still pleased I did the 2.8-3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie!
PS really whatever I suggested, stick to it. Learn from my goof ups! OH WATCH OUT FOR THAT OIL FILTER HOUSING SWAP. Make sure it's leak free there!

 

In my quest for the 2.8 to 3.4 swap, the mechanic put the wrong flywheel on it. Took it out and put the 3.4 flywheel, which was still hanging around and magic, no vibration. Feels good know with the exception of some driveability issues at times in second and third. I could never get rid of these even with the 2.8. It feels like it wants to accelerate but it sort of bogs, no backfire, just a shake like someone who doesn't drive a clutch ver well. This is a 5 speed.

 

Welcome to teething pains...
You're close to a great running ride
Keep at it!
Mines been doing fine for over 20,000 miles & worth all the effort.
While you are searching for your teething pain answers do no forget automotive basics
Vacuum hoses play a BIG role in smooth engine operation!
Glad to hear your solution was so simple!
WAS THE FLYWHEEL PROPERLY RESURFACED?

 

The 3.4 flywheel was perfect, just needed some surface rust sanded away. The 2.8 flywheel I thought was the 3.4 the mechanic swapped out had heatspots and I did go to the machine shop with that. Now I have a resurfaced 2.8 flywheel.