I am trying to bleed my brakes, and I cannot open the damn bleeder valve. I was told it was a 10mm, but no it's not. It's smaller than 10mm but larger than 9mm. If I continue using my 10mm I will round the thing off. What do I do? I cannot drive my car until I bleed the brakes, and today is my anniversary with the gf so SHE has to drive everywhere and I feel like a loser. "It's always something with you and your car!"

 

is it 3/8?

 

I think it's smaller.

 

if you can't find the right size use a vise grip to get it out , then replace it with a new one .... hope that helps

 

3/8 is 9.525mm

 

its a 10mm i just had to do my rear brakes yesterday but if your saying a 10 dont fit you better start looking at standard sizes or try a line wrench

 

If its stock its 10 MM>>>>> BUT biggest problem is they round easily.... BEST advice I can give is FIND/BUY a 6 POINT socket or 6 point wrench to loosen it... Usually they round when people use a 12 point wrench to loosen them...

 

try 11/32 its a little bigger then a 9 and smaller then a 10

 

If it's a front, a whole rebuilt caliper is like $12. Just change them both out and be done with it.

 

that's cheap! Are there any "upgrades" I can do, IE a two-piston caliper or something? Anything is better than our stock brakes.

 

Yeah...but it won't be done in one day

 

nevermind then, haha

should I attempt to Vice Grip this bastard off, and put it back on until I get to the store for a new one? or do I just sit here and cry about it?

 

If it was me, I'd walk to the store, or use one of my other cars, or borrow one, or call somebody and get a ride. Half-assing brakes and driving around on them isn't my idea of a good idea, if you know what I mean.

 

WELL THAT WAS GAY

I broke the bleeder valve off... I didn't round it off, it just friggin snapped!

So I "bled" them the ghetto way; I let the soft line hang until it began to drip (3 drips per second sound good?) with the cap off the resivoir. I manually filled the caliper (which I had used a C-clamp to push the piston in) with brake fluid from the can. I put the bolt through the soft line and let it drip in a little bit. I tightened the bolt and put the caliper back on. Brakes are ultra soft but 100x better than they were. This means there's still a little air in there, right?

Any suggestions? This sucks!

 

Good guess!
Time for a trade-in. Wouldn't hurt to install new hoses at the same time, unless you know they've been done in the past couple years. Check the other side as well.
Put some anti-seize on the threads of the 'new' bleed screw.
Don't let the master cylinder run dry of fluid while working on it.
Don't pi<x>ss into the wind. Don't eat yellow snow.

 

Yeah, that's what they do. Pretty common.

Looks like it's time to replace the calipers.

 

So replacing the calipers isn't a big deal? I mean, not a big costly expense? I've replaced my pads and rotors before but I didn't mess with the fluid. I just compressed the pistons and that was that. Where can I get cheap replacements aside from the obvious two answers (ebay/junkyard)? My pads are still pretty newish with about 12k miles on them- is that normal wear?

How much more persay would some "performance" calipers cost me?

 

most likely, you pay more for the pads then for replacement calipers. autozone wants $11.99 with a $10 core.

just undo the same bolts to take it off, take off the line, walk to the store and swapem for $12.

 

btw, you DONT want "the performance package" brakes.

thoes are 1LE brakes

and you dont have a 1LE car

and theres more envolved in the 1LE swap then the calipers.


just go buy the $12 caliper, bleed it, and drive away...

 

I meant if there was a 2-piston non 1LE or something Anyway, $12-ish at any parts center with a core trade in?

 

thats about right.

 

I have a 95 Bronco and the 3/8 fit perfect.

 

While you are buying new calipers, get some Speed Bleeders.
They replace the standard bleeder screw, and they have a spring and check ball inside.
All you have to do to bleed is loosen them about 1/4 turn and pump the brakes. When all the air is removed, then tighten them.
Do 1 wheel at a time. Use a 6 point wrench or socket to prevent rounding. Do not let the master cylinder get empty.