1LE / AC Delete / Smog Delete Pulley info
#1
1LE / AC Delete / Smog Delete Pulley info
OK, I myself have searched for part numbers more times than I can count, and I've helped others with the same thing twice as often. I figure it's time for an all inclusive thread that's got sticky written all over it.
Obviously, the AC delete pulley is more common. Without some sort of custom set-up, the belt tensioner/pulley is required, and therefore we need the AC delete pulley. It's also refered to as the 1LE pulley, since 1LE cars came without AC to begin with.
The A.I.R. / Smog pump delete is also a fairly common mod for us Thirdgenners, however the use of the "Delete" pulley is rarely used. For this mod you have 2 other options:
-First, you can dis-assemble the pump itself, hog it out, and re-use simply for the pulley. It saves a good bit of weight (if thats' important to you), and it won't ever seize up on you.
-Second, you can buy a new serpentine belt (shorter?Longer?), and run all the way from the crank pulley to the AC pulley. Throwing a belt can be an issue at high RPMs, however most the guys doing this seem to have no problems.
-In my opinion, a big ole useless smog pump looks pretty ugly, and so does a BIG empty hole in the accessory bracket where the big ole smog pump used to go!!!!!
...without further adeiu....
1LE / AC Delete pulley
GM Partsdirect PN# 10055890 $38.15 + S&H
A.I.R. / Smog pump Delete pulley
GM Partsdirect PN# 10186167 $35.22 + S&H
www.gmpartsdirect.com
...and for whatever reason, both pulleys are listed as water pump pulleys. Go figure. Point is that you need the part number.
Here are some pics for ya!
Obviously, the AC delete pulley is more common. Without some sort of custom set-up, the belt tensioner/pulley is required, and therefore we need the AC delete pulley. It's also refered to as the 1LE pulley, since 1LE cars came without AC to begin with.
The A.I.R. / Smog pump delete is also a fairly common mod for us Thirdgenners, however the use of the "Delete" pulley is rarely used. For this mod you have 2 other options:
-First, you can dis-assemble the pump itself, hog it out, and re-use simply for the pulley. It saves a good bit of weight (if thats' important to you), and it won't ever seize up on you.
-Second, you can buy a new serpentine belt (shorter?Longer?), and run all the way from the crank pulley to the AC pulley. Throwing a belt can be an issue at high RPMs, however most the guys doing this seem to have no problems.
-In my opinion, a big ole useless smog pump looks pretty ugly, and so does a BIG empty hole in the accessory bracket where the big ole smog pump used to go!!!!!
...without further adeiu....
1LE / AC Delete pulley
GM Partsdirect PN# 10055890 $38.15 + S&H
A.I.R. / Smog pump Delete pulley
GM Partsdirect PN# 10186167 $35.22 + S&H
www.gmpartsdirect.com
...and for whatever reason, both pulleys are listed as water pump pulleys. Go figure. Point is that you need the part number.
Here are some pics for ya!
Last edited by Abubaca; 07-24-2004 at 12:50 AM.
#6
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thanks for this info ive been freeking out trying to find a a/c delete pulley cause im buildn my engine and i threw out my ac
and at the time i was able to find all the ac eliminators then as
soon as i went to buy the eliminator they were noware to be found
and at the time i was able to find all the ac eliminators then as
soon as i went to buy the eliminator they were noware to be found
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I'm doing the same conversion to my 400 with a 1992 serp system. I see in the last pick the front of your engine that you modified, that you have 2 pulleys on the pass. side. The top one I suspect is the AC delete, but what is the one under it, and how did cutting the bracket make it look different? Did you still use a Smog delete?
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In re-reading the replies, I see that my question started with one person, and ended with another. I now realised that the one who cut the bracket was Bluegrassz, and I wanted more details about what he did, and if possible a pic. The pic provided by Abubaca was what the front of an engine would look like if both pulleys were installed. For both pulleys the stock belt will work. Bluegrassz? With you cut bracket technique, do you still use both pulleys, or only the AC delete...and do you maintain your original length belt or did you find a smaller one, and do you know it's part number? Thanks guys...I'm interested because I have both pulleys, and will be doing the same conversion. I like the idea of cleaning up the front of the engine, and may be interested in trrying the bracket cutting technique.
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Car: 1990 Formula
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I was really suprised when I got mine that the pulleys were plastic/composite. I was originally going to powder coat them to match the rest of the engine bay, I guess that one is out the window...
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Hmm...I wonder if a good machine shop would be able to machine just the pulleys out of billett for a clean look. So long as a good set of matching pulleys could be found...
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by Durango_Boy
Hmm...I wonder if a good machine shop would be able to machine just the pulleys out of billett for a clean look. So long as a good set of matching pulleys could be found...
Hmm...I wonder if a good machine shop would be able to machine just the pulleys out of billett for a clean look. So long as a good set of matching pulleys could be found...
#16
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Originally posted by Durango_Boy
In re-reading the replies, I see that my question started with one person, and ended with another. I now realised that the one who cut the bracket was Bluegrassz, and I wanted more details about what he did, and if possible a pic. The pic provided by Abubaca was what the front of an engine would look like if both pulleys were installed. For both pulleys the stock belt will work. Bluegrassz? With you cut bracket technique, do you still use both pulleys, or only the AC delete...and do you maintain your original length belt or did you find a smaller one, and do you know it's part number? Thanks guys...I'm interested because I have both pulleys, and will be doing the same conversion. I like the idea of cleaning up the front of the engine, and may be interested in trrying the bracket cutting technique.
In re-reading the replies, I see that my question started with one person, and ended with another. I now realised that the one who cut the bracket was Bluegrassz, and I wanted more details about what he did, and if possible a pic. The pic provided by Abubaca was what the front of an engine would look like if both pulleys were installed. For both pulleys the stock belt will work. Bluegrassz? With you cut bracket technique, do you still use both pulleys, or only the AC delete...and do you maintain your original length belt or did you find a smaller one, and do you know it's part number? Thanks guys...I'm interested because I have both pulleys, and will be doing the same conversion. I like the idea of cleaning up the front of the engine, and may be interested in trrying the bracket cutting technique.
What I did was remove the complete bracket. Then I cut the mounting part for the smog pump off. This left only the mounting holes for the a/c delete pulley. It makes it easier to get to the lower front of the motor. Also helps with the bottom radiator hose access.
I didnt have to use the smog delete pulley. I think I bought a belt that was 6" shorter than stock. I dont remember the part # and I dont have any engine bay pics at the moment. I do plan on taking some, just go to finish a project before I do.
hope this helps.
bluegrassz
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Car: 91 Z28 & 21 Hellcat Challenger
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im thinkin about doing this.. Deletin my smog.. I want my engine bay to look cleaner, obvisouly i dont care about how clean our air is But i called a chevy dealership up and there selling it for 60 bucks (for the pulley) Im deff gonna have to get it on GMdirect
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It's on back order from gm parts direct. I'm still waiting for mine.....
Feb 18, 2005-ordered
$47.39 total with tax
Special Ordered item
Feb 18, 2005-ordered
$47.39 total with tax
Special Ordered item
#21
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Originally posted by nick418
im thinkin about doing this.. Deletin my smog.. I want my engine bay to look cleaner, obvisouly i dont care about how clean our air is But i called a chevy dealership up and there selling it for 60 bucks (for the pulley) Im deff gonna have to get it on GMdirect
im thinkin about doing this.. Deletin my smog.. I want my engine bay to look cleaner, obvisouly i dont care about how clean our air is But i called a chevy dealership up and there selling it for 60 bucks (for the pulley) Im deff gonna have to get it on GMdirect
#22
You dont need a pulley to delete the smog. Just remove the pump and run a smaller belt. If you delete the a/c, then you will need the the a/c delete pulley.
I think this pic might show it best:
#24
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Originally posted by Abubaca
Bluegrassz: Don't get me wrong, using your cutting technique, it doesn't look to bad, I just don't like the big empty bracket.
Bluegrassz: Don't get me wrong, using your cutting technique, it doesn't look to bad, I just don't like the big empty bracket.
I need to get some engine bay pics posted. Ive not got around to taking any pics. The key to cutting the bracket is cutting it in the right place. If done right, it looks factory and you dont really miss anything.
I wish it was a little warmer here. I would pull the camaro out of the garage and take some pics. I need to finish my overflow tank install also. I mounted a summit unit in front of the radiator support. Then removing the old one on the strut mount. With the stock overflow out of the way, the a/c and smog gone, It cleaned that side up a bit.
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Is it just me or does anyone else think our cars look goofy without the overflow bottle in the original spot and the wiper bottle. The fenders dont look right without them.
#26
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Originally posted by Spdfrk1990
Is it just me or does anyone else think our cars look goofy without the overflow bottle in the original spot and the wiper bottle. The fenders dont look right without them.
Is it just me or does anyone else think our cars look goofy without the overflow bottle in the original spot and the wiper bottle. The fenders dont look right without them.
It depends on taste. Im going for a uncluttered look. If I had the time, I would smooth out the strut towers and repaint the engine bay. There are a few pics of a members car that done it. I cant remember the name.
Im not running a washer fluid tank either. Not to mention a vac canister, cruise control, or even a heater box. lol.
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Originally posted by Abubaca
Bluegrassz: Don't get me wrong, using your cutting technique, it doesn't look to bad, I just don't like the big empty bracket.
Bluegrassz: Don't get me wrong, using your cutting technique, it doesn't look to bad, I just don't like the big empty bracket.
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ABUBACA...I just looked through the Jeg's online catalog, using keywords like Wire, Loom, and Russell, and I did not manage to find any looms even close to the ones you have installed on your motor. I know I'm speaking for a lot of people when I say they are amazing looking, and really add something to the look of a nice engine bay. Any chance for a part number or something to help narrow the search a little? I'd love a set. Thanks...
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Car: 1999 Mustang GT
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Transmission: T-45
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Originally posted by novass
Actually I was thinking of doing that myself, if I get the time the toughest part would be the groves, I'd have to make a custom tool. That way I could make them match the other shiny parts under my hood.
Actually I was thinking of doing that myself, if I get the time the toughest part would be the groves, I'd have to make a custom tool. That way I could make them match the other shiny parts under my hood.
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by interfac9
Where did you get your plenum polished??? <drooling>
Where did you get your plenum polished??? <drooling>
it helps having a 3/4 hp buffing motor w 10" buffs.
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Originally posted by novass
I did it all by my self......
it helps having a 3/4 hp buffing motor w 10" buffs.
I did it all by my self......
it helps having a 3/4 hp buffing motor w 10" buffs.
Ho-leeee crap!!! By hand, ya say? Bang up job, sir. I would love to know the steps involved...
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Car: 1990 Formula
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Originally posted by interfac9
Ho-leeee crap!!! By hand, ya say? Bang up job, sir. I would love to know the steps involved...
Ho-leeee crap!!! By hand, ya say? Bang up job, sir. I would love to know the steps involved...
#41
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
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Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
cool just ordered mine about 5 minutes ago!!!
Order Detail:
Quantity
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
EXT. PRICE
CORE
TOTAL
STATUS
Tracking #
1
10055890
A/C delete pulley
$43.88
$43.88
$0.00
$43.88
In Process
1
10186167
PULLEY AS
$40.51
$40.51
$0.00
$40.51
In Process
Taxes:
$0.00
Handling and Shipping:
$18.86
ORDER TOTAL:
$103.25
can't wait to put it on my 305 tbi... Did you guys have to remove the radiator to install it?
Order Detail:
Quantity
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
EXT. PRICE
CORE
TOTAL
STATUS
Tracking #
1
10055890
A/C delete pulley
$43.88
$43.88
$0.00
$43.88
In Process
1
10186167
PULLEY AS
$40.51
$40.51
$0.00
$40.51
In Process
Taxes:
$0.00
Handling and Shipping:
$18.86
ORDER TOTAL:
$103.25
can't wait to put it on my 305 tbi... Did you guys have to remove the radiator to install it?
#42
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I flipped the AIR-pump delete pulley over the other way (pulley closer to water pump pulley) to get more "belt-wrap" around the A/C pulley. needed a slightly longer belt, didn't result in interference with anything else. The AIR-pump delete pulley I got, the pulley is smooth, not ribbed. I think the pulley therefore rides on the smooth side of the belt, not the ribbed side. The AIR-pump delete pulley I'm using is the 10129569. I got the part number out of the GM SBC serpentine belt kit, since it looked just like my L98 setup. paceparts.com shows a picture with the setup for their SBC serpentine belt kit, but I'm suspecting that for the photo setup, on the mockup, they inadvertently put the pulley bracket on wrong, maybe just to not have to figure out a new belt size, and that photo became the reference standard. It just doesn't make sense that if the bracket is flipped over the other way, you get more belt wrap around the AC pulley. more belt wrap means better traction, less slip. my 2 cents worth.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/albu...pictureid=7611
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/albu...pictureid=7611
Last edited by RPOL98; 11-01-2009 at 03:42 PM.
#45
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Originally posted by cali92RS
You do realize in Cali, you need that smog pump and A.I.R.?
You do realize in Cali, you need that smog pump and A.I.R.?
#46
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Originally posted by Psycho_91Camaro
Yeah but who's gonna stop me? MUAHAHAHA
Yeah but who's gonna stop me? MUAHAHAHA
#47
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Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
with the 305 quite a few people will it seems but, have them try with the 383 in it hehe.
#48
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
wait a minute... If I delete both the AC and smog pump, will I still be able to use my Air/Defroster/Heater even with the blower motor inplace?????? or will I be sorry in the winter time when I need to defrost my foggy windows ?
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Psycho_91Camaro
Yeah but who's gonna stop me? MUAHAHAHA
Yeah but who's gonna stop me? MUAHAHAHA