hey i wanna take my 305 out of my firebird and make a 335 stoker motor with a .040 over bore, and a 400 crank, it could make over 375 horse with the right valve train and heads, but i just want to know what ya'll think!

 

This question gets asked all the time. The answer is always the same.

You can buy a 350 core for ALOT less than that kit; and get a whole lot better motor that will produce more power and cause less headaches all the way around. In other words, it's a very poor idea, that doesn't pass the "smell test" of $$$$/HP, as compared to installing a "bore kit" for a 305.

There's one guy on here that's built one, that I know of. His car (TPI) produces the exact same HP on the chassis dyno as my carbed 305 (stock Q-Jet); and about 10% more torque than mine, as one would expect from 10% more displacement. He probably has at least $400 more in that than he would have had in a 350, and it makes less power.

Therefore, we think it's a bad idea, since you spend more and get less than the alternatives.

 

This topic has been beat to death, do a search under my name, I posted a thread about the build up a while back and have replied to several threads concerning it. IMO, it's a waste of money and time, and it takes a lot of both and the results you get are nothing short of disapointing. The amount of work you have to do the block is ridiculous, and the balance job is nuts. I am all for being different, but this isn't the place to do it, you won't be different, you'll just be another slow car that someone spent way to much on. IF you do decide to do it, let me know, I can give some insight if you'd like.

Jason

 

Bah, that was last year, and was in 2nd gear. I've done a couple things since then. And I put down 347rwtq through the stock catback, on a stock tune, with stock heads/intake/19lb injectors, with a stock tranny/dshaft/2.73s. Didn't even gut the airboxes. I think thats impressive. And I missed my torque peak. Probably around 410+tq at the crank. And I am even pushing more now... just need to get a few things sorted out first.

And who cares about HP cause ET is where the truth is at

But either way, if you have the chance to go 350 ...do it. Or maybe do a big bore/short stroke and be unique!

 

I don't mean to be disrespectful, but mid 13's at 96 mph is where the truth is at?

 

Mid 13's on untouched 305 heads, plenum, runners, base, injectors, tuning, 2.73's, stock suspension, full weight, with 3 months of driving experience. I was just saying HP numbers don't really mean much to me (especially on a TPI car). And considering that run I was about half throttle through the traps, yeah its not too bad... IMO.

I have trapped 99.7 before.

That 13.4 run at 96 should have been a high 13.2...but I held 2nd gear too long and hit the limiter. Just compare the slips -


RT... .709
60'... 1.822
330... 5.437
1/8... 8.496
MPH... 79.77
1000... 11.183
1/4... 13.413
MPH... 98.7


RT... .692
60'... 1.743
330'... 5.327
1/8... 8.371
MPH... 80.09
1000... 11.068
1/4... 13.413
MPH... 96.4

Notice my 1000' time in my 2nd run, over 1 tenth faster than my other 13.4, it woulda been a 13.3 or better but as I said before I messed up and kinda coasted through the traps at 1/2 throttle

As far as building the 335, yes it was a PITA. It was alot more work than expected but I kept my patience through it. But I had fun doing it, me and my dad built it when i was 14. I wanted to learn how to build a motor so this is what we did. I didn't have much knowledge or have the advantage of reading this board back then. Maybe I would have done something different, or maybe I would have built the 335 anyways. Eiether way I have fun with it and thats all that matters

 

you're exactly right, I remember building my first engine with my dad, an olds 350 in a 78 cutlass, that engine lasted a long time, and trust me, I beat the thing to death, flipped the car, but the engine in another car and kept beating the dog **** out of it. Put some decent heads, vortecs, and a good convertor and some 3.23 or 3.42 gears and the car should really move then.

 

:hail: TunedPort335 for going for it.
Those are great times for 2.73s, and how little other stuff there is done to it .
Nice pearl flames too.

 

Why would you purposely take away cubic inches from your engine? (Thats right, I've started that debate again)

 

Sometimes, you do it because its all you have, lets say you got a 400 block and a 350 crank...etc etc. Other times, people do it because its different, g0d forbid

 

Kind of like the special olympics.

 

Whatever floats your boat

 

Oh man, how could you do that to that car? My first car was a 1978 cutlass, and it is still my favorite. Those cars had just the right mixture of style, comfort, and possibilities. It was easy to cram a 455 in the engine compartment, and they would really go then.

 

Throwing together off-the-shelf parts with no special machining, and making more power for less money, floats my boat.

 

exactly how much did ur LS1 swap cost, just curious...

 

LS1 Engine/trans/stuff $4400
Exhaust $1100
Hoses, belts, consumables $90
Fuel lines and regulator $240
Valvesprings $310
Locks $45
Timing chain $90
Oil pump $85
Helms book $110
Used EFILive scanner $200

 

It cost me about $2000 to modify the 305 so it took 1.1 sec off the 1/4 mile ET. Of that amount, I probably could have saved about $200-300 had I modified my 416 heads rather than getting the World heads, but since the car is my daily driver, I wanted to minimize the down-time (and I still think the Worlds are superior to 416's).

The rest was spent on things that would have had to have been done regardless of what engine I put in - 350, 334, 383, etc. And, I have the additional burden of needing to pass strict emissions inspection and dyno sniffer. Exhaust (LG4 stuff stinks), cam, higher stall torque converter, dual snorkel air cleaner, something done about heads - all were needed regardless of the displacement of the shortblock.

In April '01, as I was gathering the parts to do the mods, I was at a swap meet and set up across from the owner of the shop that did my block work on the 396. I strolled over and asked him about doing the machine work on the '87 LB9 block I had to ready it for a stroker kit. His response was, "I'll sell you a roller 350 block for less money than the difference between a 334 kit and a 383 kit. The machining costs will be the same either way. Don't bother with the 334."

Would the ET have been reduced even more with a 334? Probably. Would the ET have been reduced even more with a 350? Absolutely, and for less money than the 334. Would the ET have been reduced even more with a 383? Do I need to answer that?

Which one would have produced the greatest ET reduction per dollar? Probably the 383. Which one would have been the worst? Probably the 334.

For Tuned, it's water under the bridge. But, even he said, "I didn't have much knowledge or have the advantage of reading this board back then. Maybe I would have done something different..." Boy, that surely applies to me (like doing the V6 to V8 swap - I just didn't know any better at the time).

The most important part is, "Either way I have fun with it and thats all that matters."

And with that, I do agree.

 

hey well thanks guys for all the insite, but im taking a engine machineing class at southwest tech in wisconson. And i think im gonna go for the 335 anyway. The 305 is already out of my firebird and all the work im doing myself for free and i got a 400 crank for free also, all i need now is the rods and a set of .040 pistons, and im getting a friend to port the heads in his head porting class for free. But one reason i want to do this is i plan on redoing the car new paint, interior, and some other things, but i did want to keep the numbers matching block and heads with the car.

 

I thought I'd recommend these pistons, unless you've chosen some already.
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance....334&RodLen=5.7

 

what times do u run?

 

Road courses:
1:07 at Pocono North
1:56 at Indy Raceway Park

I haven't drag raced in years...ya know the feeling you get going down the strip? Imagine that for ~30 minutes continuously instead of just 12 or 13sec. That's road racing. Adrenaline is more addictive than crack.

Back when I did drag race, with my L98 and TPI, best was 13.19sec@103mph at Memphis Motorsports Park. Plain old 0.030" over 350 with HOT cam and a set of GM aluminum heads, Accel intake base, stock runners/plenum/injectors. That year, I ran 8 passes back to back all in the 13.19-13.2x sec range.

 

I beleive those are the same ones I have, except mine came in the kit that Powerhouse sells.