How do I glue the manifold/head gaskets to the heads before installing the manifold? I was going to use "household cement" (glue, not concrete), but it was too tacky and left strings everywhere (I decided that might be a bad thing in my engine) then I tried (don't laugh) elmer's glue (it only needs to hold long enough to install the manifold!) but it didn't hold at all. Should I use superglue, or just use RTV?

Oh the black RTV I have says it can be used for the front and rear seals of the intake manifold (what I plan on using it for) and also for sealing the water passages in the intake manifold? Should I put it on my gaskets around the water openings before assembly?

Any other tips to avoid leaks?

Oh yeah I had one other question. How important is the bolt tightening sequence? I've got TBI and my Chilton's shows a bolt sequence for TBI as different from the sequence for carb, but the "TBI" manifold they show is really a cross-fire manifold, so of course it looks totally different than my manifold.

If front is to the left (<-- that way) the "TBI" (CFI really) order is:
5 6 4 1 7 8
9 10 3 2 11 12
and the carb order is:
12 11 4 1 5 6
10 9 3 2 7 8

Help! Thanks!

 

Use the carb manifold order. They sell spray on gasket stick if it's giving you a problem. Use UltraBlack RTV for the end seals...run an at least 1/4" thick bead of it along the edges of the block, up to about an inch up on the intake gasket on either side. That should also help hold the gaskets in place. you shouldn't have to use rtv anywhere else on the intake gaskets.

 

I used the red stuff I seem to recall. I just put a dab around the intakes and a thick bead along the front/back. I didn't use those rubber things they give you with the gaskets.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

I got the GO... I need the SHOW... Interior is next!

 

I put the copper RTV around the coolant passages and it held the gasket in place.



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1988 Formula L98
1988 IROC-Z supercharged
http://www.shsu.edu/~stdvjs11

 

The RTV works well for the end seals (toss the rubber ones). But I prefer something thinner for the water passages, such as Permatex non-hardening brush-on, or Copper Coat. Put a thin coat on the head and gasket before putting the gasket in place, let it dry a few minutes. Apply the RTV to the ends like Val's picture shows, then put the gaskets in place. Use some Teflon brush-on pipe sealer on the bolt threads.

I've done a lot of SBC intakes, and found this to be the best method. The rubber end seals can be used and do help support the side gaskets during installation, but even then I put a dab of RTV in the corners on each side of the rubber to prevent leaks in those corners. If you don't put anything on the bolt threads you can get oil seapage past the bolt threads & heads.

Val, you shouldn't put gasket sealer on the exhaust cross-over passages. It will burn off quickly, and possible cause a leak where you wouldn't have had one without the sealer.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 3.08 open, cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress.
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

five7kid,
The bolt holes in the intake have been elongated. The manifold BARELY overlapped the heads, if at all near the bottom of the hole. Because of this I felt that some insurance was needed. I chose the copper RTV because it had a higher temp rating than any other sealant. It's been 4 years and not one leak yet!!


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1988 Formula L98
1988 IROC-Z supercharged
http://www.shsu.edu/~stdvjs11

 

You can use a little brush on sealer around the collant passages to hold it in place. I would advise not putting it around the intake passages. Espessially if you are using f/p printo seal gaskets.

 

Will you get a coolant leak if you don't put sealant around the coolant passages? Or will it be ok if you have good (Edelbrock) gaskets? I got done installing it and realized I didn't put RTV around the coolant passages.

 

speedlvr, I did the same thing and am wondering the same thing. I have not fired the engine up so I don't know what to expect now that I read this post.

IS there a problem with not putting anything around the coolant passages?

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1991 Show Camaro in the works... to be back in from the painter in May or June.

• Super Ram 383
• 58mm TB
• 30 lbs Bosch injectors
• Fast Burn Heads
• Jet Hot Coated SLP 1 3/4" Headers
• Midrange cam
• Custom Prom
• Global West SFC's with custom reinforcements
• 8 Point Custom Roll bar
• ILE Brakes
• Eibach Pro Kit springs
• Polyuerethane Suspension bushings all around
• ILE Aluminum Driveshaft
• Full Autometer Instrumentation (10 guages)
• Dupont custom pearl paint with flames and 6 ultra-thick clear coats
• and the list goes on...

 

I didnt put anything around my passeges and its been 4,000 miles later and leak free.

 

it is extra caution to put rtv around the cooant passages, but if you don't just make sure to keep the intake bolts tightened down. If the intake does not stay snug against the block then coolant will leak into the lifter vallay and into the oil, and that will be a problem.

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."