I'm labeling my harness so I can start wiring it. I'm using the 'wiring for dummies' thread as my guide. Harness is from a 95 Z28 with T56

What I need clarified

on the Blue 10 pin connector, the guide states teh A is empty, and K is tan/blk for torque convertor control

My harness has a gray wire for A, and a purple wire in K

Any ideas if this is something specific to a manual car? Its my guess, but I don't have a manual to check......

on the black 4 pin connector, guide shows C as orange power feed from ECM Bat fuse #4 and D as empty

this harness has C empty, and D has a green or gray wire

Last thing I'm lost on is the starter enable relay. I know the black/yellow wire goes to the vats box. What do the yellow, brown and purple wire go to?

I'm assuming the purple wire goes to the C100 connector's purple wire.... but its just a guess

thanks

 

LT1 Harness:
(this is for 95')
C100
A Pink Power feed from injector fuse #9
B Dk Green/White A/c compressor relay control
C Dk Green A/c compressor clutch solenoid feed
D Orange Power feed from PCM fuse #8
E Brown AIR pump relay control
F Brown Power feed from fans/actuators Fuse #6
G Pink Power feed from igntion Fuse #11
H Dk Blue Coolant fan relay control (2 & 3)
J Dk Green Coolant fan relay control (1)
K Pink Power feed from injector fuse #10


C105
A Orange/Black Traction control system spark retard
B Pink Power feed from injector Fuse #10
C Tan/Black Traction control system throttle position
D Dk Green Cruise control signal-disengage (V6 VIN K only)
E Tan Serial data signal
F White Cruise control indicator lamp output (V6 VIN K only)
G Lt Blue Traction control active

C210
A Purple Theft deterrent relay to starter solenoid feed
B Black/White Ground feed to fuel pump relay
C Empty
D Grey Feed from fuel pump and fuel pump relay to prime connector

C220
A Red Generator feed to instrument cluster
B Tan Oil pressure feed to instrument cluster
C Brown Oil level feed to instrument cluster
F Tan Serial data signal
G Dk Green/White Vehicle speed signal
H Dk Blue/White (Automatic) Performance switch signal
(Manual) Skip shift indicator control (V8 VIN P only)
J Dk Green/White Fuel pump relay control
K Dk Green Coolant temperature feed to instrument cluster


C230
A Lt Blue, Grey (Automatic) Performance switch indicator control
(Manual) Clutch anticipate signal (V6 VIN S only)
B Brown/White Service engine soon indicator feed
C White/Black Diagnostic request signal
D White Tachometer signal to instrument cluster
E Dk Blue Theft deterrent-fuel enable feed
F Dk Green/White A/c request signal
G Pink Power feed from PCM ignition Fuse #5
H

H Lt Blue/Black

Brown (Automatic) TCC switched power feed

(Manual) Power from turn/back-up Fuse #2 to back-up switch
J

J Orange/Black

Lt Green (Automatic) Park/neutral feed from transmission position switch (V8 VIN P only)

(Manual) Backup lamp feed
K Purple (Automatic) Torque converter clutch control (V6 VIN K only)


On an automatic car pin A of the C230 you are referring to would only be used on a Firebird, they have a "performance shift" switch, that wire will light up the button on that switch when perf shift is enabled.

Pin K is for the V6's only so that shouldnt apply to your setup. The light blue and black (H) should be the one wired to your tcc control wire from the thirdgen C100.

You shouldnt be doing anything to your starter wiring, you will be using the stock thirdgen starter relay, just connect the purple wire of the C100 to the purple wire in the 4 pin black C210.

 

Thanks man

I was half tempted to throw all this wiring in a box and drive up to see you LOL

now it makes a little more sense. I appreciate it

-jason

 

Sorry for not getting back to you on the PM before, I have a lot of stuff im working on and I just dont have the time right now to do another harness. Got 1 car im trying to finish up building, and 2 others fighting to get in the door with a family member having me help him with his swap.

 

You could've just told me that in a PM, I understand about being busy, trust me. Its most of the reason I haven't really worked on this wiring project.

I'm down in Fort Myers now, so we should get together sometime......

thanks again

 

You'll get a laugh out of this..... or at least I hope so. I stole the male connectors from the donor car for everything. I was using those connectors to make my connections. That way if I decided to ever just sell the motor separate, I could unclude an uncut harness. Well the male connectors is apparently wired for anything the underdash harness was installed into...... the undergood harness had both Pin A and K empty....


Not sure i understand this part. The 91z I'm using is a 5 spd car, plus the LT1 harness is a 6 spd harness. Am I missing something like really obvious here??? LOL I shouldn't be using anything related to a TCC control wire anywhere in this mess I don't think. I know I have two wires in my C100 3rd gen connector for the back up lights. Is that what you are referring too?


And this just made my day! So basically hook up the purple vats wire from Pin E on the C230 and it should be good to go as far as the VATS is concerned. I was under the impression that I had to wire in the starter enable solenoid from the LT1 car, which I did keep btw! LOL

thanks for the info. I'll probably have more questions as I start taming the rats nest of wires

-jason

 

Maybe these three pictures will help.

C100

 

C220 (the white connector)

 

Alright, another 'mystery' wire

C220, Pin H
supposed to be ""Dk Blue/wihte (automatic performance switch signal" or "(Manual) skip shift indicator control (V8 VIN P only)"

Guess my question since my car is a manual, is it a different color than an auto car???

On my harness, it is a tan or white wire (sorta color blind.... LOL)

Thanks for the pinout, but I'm still lost on the TCC reference

*edit* - after reading the pinout posted above, I see that its suppose to be *either* dark blue OR white, not dark blue and white! LMAO

thanks

-jason

 

C230 (the blue connector)

 

Now, my 105 didn't have the pink wire in the B slot for the fuel injector fuse.

 

Jason, check your PM's also

 

The male end of the C105 in my harness (going to the underhood fuse block) has two pins, B and E.

Obviosuly B is switched power

and E goes to the diagnostic port? I know I read a post on here about that..... shouldn't that run to the C207 inside the car?

But then what is Pin F on the C220 connector going?
duplicate wires perhaps?

or does one work the SES light and the other the diagnostic port???

 

Are you using a 6 speed LT1 or putting an LT1 / 4L60E or is it a LT1 and 700R4 ?

Need more info to help you straighten this out.

 

95 LT1/6 spd into a 91 LB9/T-5 SD car

Pics: http://firebirdandcamaro.net/jason/Kris_LT_1_swap/

The car cranks now. Thanks to Klortho suggestion, I bypassed the starter enable relay and it will turn over. PCM isn't pulsing the injectors though, not sure why just yet.

btw, I got the blower motor working, so I was pleased LOL

I had constant power the the black connector, but not switched power to the blue. I need to chase the harness down a bit, as it was out of a pretty bad wreck. The C230 connector has switched power at the correct pin, but not at the ECM. Found some some sliced wires so I called it a night. Its still 96* out and no shade around the car. Pretty sure I sunburned my legs, feet and back of my neck.


Time for beer

thanks for all the help

-jason

 

The torque converter control wont matter at all to you with it being a 6 speed setup.

Heres how everything *should* be and where to check each for power etc.

C100:

A- Ign 12V
D- Battery 12V
G- Ign 12V
H- Fan 2 control ( negative output to turn on fan)
J- Fan 1 Control same as above
K- Ign 12V

C105:

B- Ign 12V
E- Serial Data thirdgen C230

C210:

A- Purple wire straight to the purple wire from your thirdgen C100
The diagrams dont show an orange wire but I bet its got one, Battery 12V

C220:
A- Red to your alt, use your thirdgen plug and cut off the LT1 connector, connect the red wire of the LT1 harness to the brown wire of the thirdgen connector.
B- Oil pressure - to the C100 thirdgen
F- Serial Data - thirdgen C230
G- VSS output Thirdgen C230
H- Skip shift light, not needed but if you want to have some fun hook it to the C230 of your thirdgen harness that controls the stock "shift" light.
J- Fuel pump relay control, route this to the fuel pump relay wire, its the same green / white
K- Coolant temp, thirdgen C100

C230:
B- Service engine soon output (thirdgen C230)
C- Diag request (C230 again)
D- Tach C100
G- Ign 12V

Change the connector on your thirdgen harness for the reverse light, or wire them to H and J of the C230 LT1 harness, which way doesnt matter.

 

I'll have to check it out next week when I get some time to work on it.

Thanks man

-jason

 

Well I got to mess with it some more this morning. Chased the harness that went to the blue and white connectors and under the plastic wire loom, found two different areas where the wires were cut, to include the pink switched wire to the ECM. Cut everything spliced back together and it starts...... but dies.

I thought it wasn't getting a signal to the fuel pump, so I ran that wire straight to the battery with no change. It'll run about 5 or 10 seconds, then nothing. Starts right back up though.

Any ideas

btw, thanks to everyone for helping out. I couldn't have made it this far without the support from this board

back outside for me

-jason

 

Sounds to me like your getting deterred by VATS, is it programmed out of your pcm ?

 

I have the blue wire running to the blue wire coming out of my C207 connector under the dash.

Vats is not programmed out of the PCM, but didn't think it would be an issue if I retained my stock VATS

If it helps, I have the other vats box out of the 4th gen, but of course it uses a different resistance value.....

Open to any suggestions at this point

thanks

-jason

 

If this is worth anything, the 4th gen did the samething when I test fired the motor *before* I bought it. Figured it had something to do with the accident the car was in

Just food for thought

-jason

 

disconnected the blue vats wire for fun, and the car does the exact same thing. So it could be a vats problem...

using the multimeter, I have 5v at the C207 connector when the key is turned on. 2v while cranking

sound right? I'm not getting a security light or anything like that. I do have the starter enable relay jumpered still though.

so close!

-jason

 

Ok, Pin 25 on the red connector is getting 5v reference, so is it still a vats problem?

Not sure what else I'm checking for here......

argh, sun is baking me to death out there, but it sure beats freezing to death!

-jason

 

Ok, after going over the pinouts for the red connector, I see that the vats reference voltage is suppose to be 2.5v, so I'm going to get a inline resistor and see if dropping the voltage down to 2.5v will get it running......

*sigh*

-jason

 

Its still most likely the VATS, the thirdgen box hooked up wont output the correct value, and for some reason the 4th gen box plugged into the thirdgen didnt seem to work when I tried it. If you want to come out here and bring it i'll reprogram it for you and hopefully get you up and running...