See this thread for the previous account of the saga https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...56#post2459856

Installed the rebuilt carb and hooked up the remaining items required to get it started. Added fluids, checked it over, hooked up the timing light, etc. Pic below is just before the freshly-recharged battery was installed.

Son Nate ran the ignition switch while I ran the throttle from the engine compartment. Cranked it about 10 seconds, nothing. Had him stop while I checked for fuel at the carb - could just start getting some from the accelerator pump, so had him crank it again. After about 3 more seconds, it fired up! Sounded pretty decent. Unplugged the ECM at the distributor, set timing to 6 degrees (it was a little retarded, which is better than a little advanced for first starting). Looked it over, added tranny fluid and water, it was sounding and looking good. Tranny engaged both forward & reverse. Decided to take it around the block, it really felt strong and good. Came back to the garage and noticed a puddle on the floor, thought it must be spilled water, turned out to be a leaking fuel return line at the pump. Shut it down, clipped off the end of the fuel return hose and put on a new clamp, that fixed that. Tightened up a couple of other clamps, started it up again, adjusted the IAB (1st time it actually had an effect on the dwell since I've had it - took about 1/8 turn from the carb kit presetting to get it to 30 degrees).

Let it run for a few more minutes and shut it off again. Heard a hissing sound, traced it to the left rear of the engine, and started seeing some coolant drops on the floor. Couldn't see where it was coming from from above, jacked it up and it appeared to be coming from the bottom of the #7 exhaust port. After a few minutes, it stopped, started the engine again to see if it would start again, it didn't.

Not sure what that was/is. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the #7 plug before doing anything else, turn the engine over w/o the plug to see if there is any fluid in there, try to figure out what's going on. There weren't any apparent flaws in the block or head, about the only other thing I can figure is head gasket (but it wasn't coming from between the head & block, that I could see - too high for that).

I've never seen anything like this, hope it's some kind of self-healing start-up thing (although I can't imagine what that would be).

 

five7kid your a stud plane and simple nice work love the car thought i'd throw in some of my pics as well if you wanna see more check out the site http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2042984 thanks for the page on v6 to v8 conversion of thirdgen f-body's without it i would have been lost

 

here's some other pics as well as my 383 sets lovely in the firebird

 

good work on your swap. This latest pic almost had me thinking I was looking at a 307 w/all the hoses running around......

 

kileschilke4: Glad to have been of some help. Honestly, I've learned more about cars from this Board than any other resource in my entire life.

Of course, had I known about the Board before doing the swap, I may never have actually bought the car!

 

307? I don't think I've ever seen a 307 with that many hoses...

 

Five7, that upper rad hose looks real close to the A/C belt. I can't see from the pic if you have a guard installed but if you don't you can get one from a Chev Dealer #10055001. When that hose gets hot is sages a bit and sometimes comes in contact (bumps ect.) with the belt which will rub a hole in the hose. Good insurance. I feel for you with coolent coming out of #7. I had the same problem when I hit the button for the first time. I noticed foam in the coolent resivore so I removed the rad cap, filled the rad up to the top and did a cyl leakdown test. When I got around to #2 and put the air to it air bubbles came out of the rad. Bummer. I called Fel-Pro and they said to use head bolt washers (oiled) and torque the head bolts in three stages to 60#. Waite 24 hrs and retorque the bolts to 65#. Haven't had a problem since.

Auggie

 

Here's a different angle, to put your mind at ease.

 

The hose support is built into the upper radiator support.

I was thinking about retorquing the head bolts. Guess I'll try that this afternoon.

 

Ahhh! Looks good. Did you have time to check #7?


Auggie

 

Not yet. Just got home from church. It'll have to wait until after dinner.

Nothing more dripped to the outside, anyway.

 

You know Five7 theres a product called "Silver Sodler" for coolent leaks that I have used in the past that works wonders. I am not much for that kind of stuff but sometimes its any port in a storm.

Auggie

 

I just got the cooling system cleaned out after neglecting its service since the mods in Nov '01. I hate to add something like that if it can be avoided, but will if it can't. The block was decked to make sure it was flat, the heads were checked and deemed flat, the heads were previously on the 305 with FelPro shim gaskets with no leaks (thinner than the Victor Renz used this time). I sprayed the gaskets with Copper Coat this time, aluminum paint last time.

Maybe it's the Copper Coat.

One other area of previous neglect that has now been rectified. At least it hasn't leaked (yet).

 

Yah, I used the Fel-Pro sandwich type gaskets .040" thick and they said not to use anything on them. Is that a tranny cooler? What size is it?

Auggie

 

Yep, tranny cooler. I didn't have one on until now. The fin area is about 12" x 10".

 

Pulled #7, dry. Disconnected the distributor power and turned the engine over, nothing came out.

Prepared for the head bolt retorquing. Removing the driver’s side valve cover required removing the AC compressor. Removing the header required removing the y-pipe, PS pump & brackets.

With that done, started removing the header, when I loosened the rear-most bolt (you’re not going to believe this), coolant started coming out. Thinking it was just the bolt hole filled with coolant, pulled it all the way out but it kept leaking. Got a pan under it, it’s obvious that the bolt hole is open to the coolant passage.

When I put the engine together last time, I used ¾” header bolts. This time, I got a new set of fancy Allen-7/16” hex bolts that were 1” long. Apparently, I punched a hole in the back of that bolt hole with the longer bolt. I don’t remember anything “funny” about the way the bolts went in, although it is possible the hole was always there but didn’t leak for whatever reason. These gaskets have the slotted end holes so you can drop them behind the header after starting the end bolts through the headers so you don’t have to align 3 things at one time, I’m not sure if the FelPro 1404’s had that feature – if they didn’t, the gasket may have sealed the hole off.

With the header all of the way off and the coolant drained from the radiator, I’ve put some JB Weld in the hole, driven in with a ¾” bolt not quite seated. I’ll let it set a little, pull the bolt out, let it finish setting, then run a tap in part way to clean the forethreads. It is supposed to set within 4 hours, hardens quicker with heat after 6 (I’ll start it up for a minute at that point), full strength within 15. As an extra measure, I’ll use Teflon sealant on a ¾” bolt when it goes back together for good.

So, wasn’t as bad as it could have been. Renews my faith in the head gasket seal.

(BTW, I'm not sure if Silver Solder would have done the job...)

 

Good to hear it wasn't worse. Teflon sealant should do the job fine (it's on my head bolts and they don't leak). I'm curious to see what this runs in the 1/4 when it's broken in.

 

I pretty much came to that same conclusion. About an hour after I mixed the JB, the "coupon" was still fluid. I'd stick the bolt in, and it wouldn't hit the epoxy. I imagine it just oozed out the other end. So, I put everything back together, by the time I was done the "coupon" was set fairly well, I put the bolt back in with the Teflon sealant and filled the cooling system back up. Installed the air cleaner, hood, and called it finished (for now, anyway).

My wife wanted to go for a walk, so we took the Camaro over to a local lake for a walk around it. Then to the grocery store, about 10 miles total. No leaks.

The tranny is much more crisp than the '86 was (but the '86 is pretty much worn out). OD doesn't engage until about 45-50 MPH, not sure if that is an artifact of the shift kit that was put in it, govenor, or what. But, it seems to work nicely. However, the TCC isn't engaging. Not sure if that's a power issue, harness change between '83 & '86, or an internal transmission problem. I did check for the input shaft o-ring before I put the torque converter on.

It really does feel good, though. I haven't really gotten on it yet, but pulling out of the grocery store parking lot, I turned the AC on to cool off the ducts before going back to vent. I needed to get ahead of some traffic, so I wasn't looking at the heater controls, just put it back to vent by feel. After getting up to traffic speed, I realized it was in bi-level - but it didn't feel like the AC was pulling down the engine like it did with the 305.

Sweet.

 

Just for future reference,here's an interesting little story.Last summer I built a 377 for a buddy's stock car.Brand new Brodix10x's,leaked like a sive outa every bolt hole when we fired it up.(used studs instead of bolts.Called my machinist(frantic!)and he told me to dump a bottle of Bar's Leak in it.Believe it or not,it worked!He said sometimes tolerances are just loose enough,between all the tiny joints(stud to head,washer,nut)that water seeps through.Dunno,never believed in snake oil,but that sh#t sure works!

 

Good Deal!

The transmission pins are different. I noticed it when I had my Camaro trans out for the re-seal. Your 86 should be the same as my 84 and you 83 should be the same as the 82 I had on the bench.

I'd call a few dealers up (Cadiliac) and get a package of block sealer / water pump conditioner. Just for some added safety.

 

I wondered if the pins were different. I knew the switch layout was on the valve body. So, looks like I'll be dropping the pan and re-pinning the connector.

It got up over 220 degrees yesterday and didn't leak. I think that problem is solved. If it shows up again, I'll squirt some RTV in the hole before redoing the bolt with the Teflon sealer.

 

Heck yea man, post on the regional boards before you take that sucker to the track. I might just have to take that day off work and see her run, plus it would be nice to meet another person from the board. (Got to meet 300hpSE just before I bought his Trans Am off him last month )

 

Been a few days since you posted. Got any updates on the new engine?

 

430 miles on it so far. I've seen puffs of smoke after warm start-ups, but the head assemblier said that would probably be the case because of the seals he used on the exhaust valves. Doesn't cause an oil consumption problem, but could cause an emissions test visual problem (if that were an issue any longer).

Still seems to be running well. Biggest problem now is getting the keys from the women in the household.

I've got the daughter's '92 Lumina 3.1 apart now for intake gasket change - was leaking at the end seals (RTV) which were as hard as rock. Discovered a very poorly maintained engine by previous owners (not the previous owner, that was my brother, but by those before him). I've scrapped out about a quart of charred oil deposits from the valley and heads, which doesn't even include what was on the valley gasket itself. It was so bad I couldn't even find the head oil drain holes at first. Surprisingly, the engine ran fine and didn't use oil. Hopefully it won't leak any more, either.

All of that will probably delay my being able to change the oil in the Camaro after the 500 mile mark, and getting the tranny wires straightened out. I hope to be at Bandimere Friday evening and Saturday, but the Camaro probably won't be run yet. Although, if I get the oil changed first, I may sign it up for time-only on Friday.

 

500 miles. Still running fine, haven't seen the start-up smoke that it had a couple of times last week.

Tomorrow is a regular Friday off, still need to get the daughter's Lumina intake manifold back on, should be able to make strides with that this evening and perhaps change the oil in the Camaro at the same time. Also hope to drop the tranny pan and get the wiring straightened out. Then, perhaps in the afternoon out to the track with both the '57 and Camaro.

 

It was more than the pins. The '83 had two more pressure switches, and the lock-up solenoid was a single wire (self grounded). I had it up in the air for the break-in oil change, so dropped the pan as well. I ended up taking the wires, switches, and solenoid from the '86 and putting it all in. It works fine now in the '83 tranny.

Took it out to Bandimere this evening, along with the '57 that I actually raced, ran the Camaro in "Time Only" (3 passes). Previous best with the 305 and tranny that wouldn't shift 2-3 at WOT was 15.7 @ 90 mph. 1st run, my son was in the passenger seat - I was guessing it would run a low 15, maybe high 14. Much to my surprise, the TS said 14.60 @ 93 mph. I let him run it the 2nd time, his first run down the track, so we won't quote that time - I'll just say it was faster than the 1st time I took the Camaro down the track 6 years ago. For the final run, I ran by myself, and it pulled a 14.388 @ 94.81, DA about 8500', humidity was 65%, calm wind. It stalls 200 RPM higher than the 305 did, and took .3 sec off the 60' time. I was wondering if the MPH would be higher than the '57, but it fell a little short of that.

What a difference a properly shifting tranny makes.

I'm sure there's more there, like skinnier tires on the front, but I was pleased with the results.

 

Can you post the correction for that e.t. and mph for us "sea level" folk?

 

Guess I should have mentioned that it's in my updated sig.

13.34 @ 102.1. That's corrected for elevation only, 5800'. DA is just a statement about further handicap.

Of course, sea level assumes adequate traction to handle the extra power. I'd probably have to go to racing tires for that.

I'll have to look for that best 305 time slip (I think I still have it somewhere). I remember 60' was in the high 2.3's, the 350 pulled a 2.089 (2.12 with both of us in the car). The 1/8 mile would take out the effects of the lack of 2-3 shift, which would give a better motor-only comparision.

To optimize it for the track, I'd need about 3000 stall, 3.73 gears, and figure out optimum shift points. I just shifted at 5500; when my son ran it, it saw 6000 at least once and didn't complain. Stickier rears and skinnier fronts as well.

 

DAMN, THAT IS SMOKIN'!!!

Now why couldn't GM do that???

 

C.A.F.E.

 

I suppose you could say they did with the 4th gens, and look what that got them.

Also, they got around C.A.F.E. with the HO 350 Camaro Conversion Kit. Did basically what I did, except for the headers, ported heads, & higher stall converter. I suppose I should count the lack of a cat & A.I.R., too, although I don't know how much they would slow it down.

 

I found the slip, 60' was 2.382, 1/8 was 10.21 @ 70.6 MPH (350 was 9.21 @ 76.0 at the 1/8). Obviously, the 1/4 mile improvement was not all due to the transmission.

In fact, this has me thinking the 350's 1/4 mile MPH is actually off. I'm running DR rods on an H hanger (I thought I had a B hanger in before, turns out it was a K). Perhaps the HO 350 Camaro Conversion Kit had an in-tank electric pump for a reason. Or, I should put a .149" needle and seat in the carb. Maybe it needs more base timing. One TGO member's opinion that the dual snorkel isn't enough may be true afterall.