Check it out... it's all here. Even a shift kit (TransGo simple kit in that blue box- a bunch of springs and stuff)

I have a 5MP picture if you need closeups...

 

it is ok for a basic stock rebuild. also if there isn't anything that needs to be replaced.

 

I don't see bushings or selectives/thrust washers. Pump will likely need new vanes as well. Also, new steels are normally wise to replace for a first class refresh.

 

how much are new steel pieces and what do they look like?

also, these vanes, what are they and how much do they run as well?

 

The vanes are the wear pieces in the pump. They cost less than a buck a piece. You will need 7, 10 or 13 of them depending onwhat year trans you have. The steels go between each clutch plate. They run about $30 for a set. The bushing kit usually sells for about $15. The thrust washer kit with selective often run in the $15 area.

 

ouch another $75 I don't have


would it be "okay" to skip them?



I lost my 3rd and 4th gears, racing on the highway. in D it shifts from 1-2, then at the "3 shift" it seems to just hit neutral.

 

Most units need a front pump, case and rear tailhousing bushing at a minimum. You may be able to buy them individually. The other items can be reused if they check good. You will not know till it is apart.

 

if you lost 3rd and 4th, you will definitly need new steels as the ones in the 3/4 clutch pack are toast. if you are going to be racing, then the stuff you have will not do the trick. i learned from experience. if you are gonna be racing, even on the street, you need a few upgrades. not just a standard cheap rebuild.

 

One option is the 3/4 upgrade clutch kit from alto. 9 clutches and steels instead of 6.

 

raybestos has the z-pack which is an excellent upgrade. i am currently running that set-up.

 

Yep, that along with a trans-go kit, vette servo, .500 boost valve and a few other odds and ends.

Really love the way my trans shifts. So gentle at part throttle. But when you get on the pedal it really firms up.

 

yeah, that transgo full shift kit is about awesome if you ask me. i put the heaviest spring in it for the 1-2 shift. talk about firm!wow! also, you need to get at least a hardened sunshell. i have the beast sunshell as well as a few other mods from a 4l65e!

 

I'm selling my transmission. ^_^ For $250 some guy is sure getting a good deal.

But I'm going LT1 and really want a 4L60E to work with the PCM. May invest in a shift kit and rebuilt it at a later date. But programmable shift points ROCK.

 

You should have told me a week ago

 

I would also get a Transgo Pump Ring kit. Check out www.bulkpart.com. Lots of parts for your tranny there.

 

you guys keep recommending me all this stuff, and I have absolutely no idea what it is, what it does, what it looks like, why i need it, or how much it costs.

 

pump ring kit= gm factory rings are breakable. the pump ring kit is a set of hardened unbreakable rings to make sure the pump vanes stay in place. it is a durability thing.

hardened sunshell= the factory sunshell has a habit of stripping the splines under heavy load and hard acceleration. a hardened one won't do this. the beast sunshell is thicker than the other sunshells and hardened. it is mainly used in high torque and high horse applications.

transgo shift kit= any tranny benifits from a shift kit because it raises line pressures so the clutch packs engage better. it can also be used to calibrate how the tranny shifts.

.500 boost valve= the biggest boost valve available for the 700r4. it raises the pressure in the forward gears. the reverse boost valve controls pressure in lo1/2 and reverse.

the z-pack from raybestos = a 3/4 clutch replacement that works good in stock and modified 700r4's to withstand coning and heat.

the alto kit mentioned works similar to the z-pack. i have used it but like the z-pack much better.

there are also little tricks to do and other mods that can be made along the way. for example, i have a 5 gear rear planet, reaction hub and bearing fro a 4l65e installed in my 700r4. you can plug the 3/4 accumulator(the transgo shift kit does this) for a firmer 3-4 shift and turn te 1-2 accumulator over for a better 1-2 shift.

who is gonne build your tranny? a local shop such as aamco might not touch the mods that have been discussed. they only like to do factory rebuilds.

 

my buddy Scott is going to do it.

 

if he knows how to build transmissions, he can show you in detail some of te things we are talking about. should be able to anyway. but most of the mods we have talked about require money to buy the parts. some of them are just rticks of the trade so to speak.

 

Also dont forget to replace the accumulator pistons. They wear out and tilt in their bores, causing loss of pressure. This caused my trans to loose pressure in 2nd/4th. The pistons where tilted at about 15-20 degrees to to extreme wear. IIRC, there is also a resleeve kit (for the 4L60-E's) avaiable if there is excessive damage to the piston bores.

Also check the flexplate. One of the pads on mine had about .060"+ of runout, which is probably the explanation for the torque converter failure. I could probably get away with a new torque converter and possibly repairs to the front pump, but this gave me a perfect excuse to buy a TKO.

 

THIS IS WHY I AVOID TRANSMISSIONS!

 

No offense, but if you don't know what it is, what it looks like or where it goes, then you should have a reputable shop do it for you. It'll be less $$$, work, time and frustration in the end. I build motors all day long but I won't dive into an auto tranny, they're VOOODOOOOO!

 

lol.....most are not that bad but you do have to know what you are doing. there are a lot of them that i won't touch. but i'll do a 700r4 with no problem.

 

700r4 = easy. ATSG + DIY attitude and a willingness to double check your work, and ask questions where needed means you can do a basic slightly upgraded rebuild by yourself.

Easy is being defined as the willingness to do the research when needed. Its not so complex that you can't figure it out if you pay careful attention to how it comes apart.

I want to go manual in the end, but for now if I need to I'll buy a 4L60E core and rebuild that in hopes that I'll never need it.

 

Rebuilding the 700 wasnt that bad, and it worked great, but after getting burned by a bad flexplate and other problems Im definatly sticking with a manual.

 

I'm not doing it myself.