Ok so I've done a few searches but still have 3 Q's...

1.
Is there a 36 MM HOLLOW -AND A- 36 MM SOLID Bar(s) avalible ???
I have the p# 14094344 Solid bar anyone know the p# for the hollow one ?

2.
Do the 34 MM bars come in Hollow and Solid ??? If so p#'s again PLEASE !

3.
I've heard rumor of a 23 MM rear bar does it exist ??? and if so anyone have the p# ?
I don't see it listed among these:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=inside

I plan on doing a little road racing this next summer along with my normal AutoX events so for my '82 Z I'd like to "expand" my collection....

So far I have ready to go:

Front:
the factory 1982 32 MM solid bar
taken from a 1985 IROC a 34 MM hollow bar
Orderd GM P# 14094344 36 MM solid bar

Rear:
the factory 1982 21 MM solid bar
Orderd GM P# 10035033 a 24 MM solid bar

So as you can see a Hollow 36 bar, a solid 34 bar and a rear 23 bar would be VERY helpful in me completing my collection.


(P.S. LONG thread but Currently I'm running the 36 MM front Solid bar and the 24 MM rear bar and "I" feel like it has too much front bar hence the reason for the search of the 36 hollow or the 34 solid )

 

Question 1- Don't know

Question 2- Spohn (sponsor up top) sells a 34mm solid chromemoly bar

Question 3- I have a special edition '87 RS that was a California only car that year (first year of the RS). This is a V6 car and had a 32mm solid front bar and a 23mm solid rear bar. I still have the factory rear bar ( I just stuffed it away at the family shop) I just took it back off and put my Spohn 25mm solid chromemoly rear bar back on when I lowered my rear roll center slightly.

From what I've heard rumors (always rumors out there, I have no proof) there was supposedly only 1200 Calif RS's built that year and I don't know how many were V6's. The V6's can run larger rear bars due to the lightweight nose. This car sat in a showroom at a dealer near the Van Nuys plant and was supposedly the first one the dealer got- this is a factory dealer paint scheme that came on the car so the bars my have been added also to give it a litttle sporter feel from the dealer, not the factory- I don't know. My wifes uncle bought this car new in '87 and passed away in '91. I picked it up from the kids when they were dividing off his stuff. Thats the long and short of what little I know about the car option wise, but like I stated, It definately came with a 23mm solid rear bar and I know he did not change it- he was not mechanically inclined.

 

The hollow 36 mm is p/n 14094344, the solid 24 is 10035033.

JamesC

 

Yes I have both of those GM invoices sitting in front of me BUT how does this pertain to Q's 1-3 ???

Part # 14094344 was a SOLID front 36 MM bar

Anyways TTT I guess THANKS

 

I don't think there were any solid 36mm bars, only hollow ones.

 

Just providing info. Use it as you wish or disregard it. Like Aperion, I don't believe GM ever manufactured a solid 36.

JamesC

 

I think solid 36ers do exist. But i have no proof of it, mines hollow.

 

P/N 14094344 is hollow, not solid.

 

The solid 36 that's mentioned in the above link apparently isn't of GM manufacture. My 36 is hollow.

JamesC

 

Yes, there are aftermarket solid 36mm bars. No factory ones though.

 

I do know this:

The one I got over the counter at GM P/N 14094344 Weighs almost TWICE as much as my Hollow 34 MM bar.... it does have the small holes at the ends of the "crimp ends" but they are dead holes I've tried running a wire through it...... So who knows unless I order another one and chop it in half too bad I don't have all the $ in the world

So anyway guess I'm screwed on the soild 34 MM bar and the rear 23 MM ba BUT it sounds like a hollow 36 MM bar will be easy to come by.... Kinda like a '69 Camaro they are the only ones that "exist"

 

If it was solid it would be a lot more than twice the weight of a hollow bar.

 

Ok OK I'll weight them both (maybe it is 3.1415926... times the weight of the 34 MM bar).

Then maybe I will drill a small hole through the middle to prove my point... ANYWAY I didn't think I'd end up defendind the SOLID 36 MM bar I already have on the car, I'm just interested in FINDING:

1. 36 MM Hollow front bar
2. 34 MM Solid front bar
&
3. 23 MM rear bar (solid)

Anyone have any of these for sale ???

Thanks

 

Have a look under the front end of your car.

 

if I am correct the biggest sway bar for the rear of a 3rd gen is 1 inch in diameter. I am not sure what this comes out to in mm, but if you have a caliper and want to see how big yours is then just simply use that and if its a 1 inch bar then your already set. the 36 mm bar is I think 1.417 converted to inches which is the biggest front bar the General made for 3rd gens, and as far as I know they were all hollow.

 

The biggest factory rear bar is 24mm, which is a little under an inch (0.945").

 

Please SEE THE POST ABOVE YOURS!!! AND...

YES I have.... in fact it is sitting right next to me in my basement now! If you'd like to hop a plane to UT you are welcome to come see it until then leave the B.S. posts out PLEASE !!!

THANK YOU ~DaVe

 

Lighten up already, you're going to give youself a stroke if you take yourself so seriously all the time.

If you have that bar, with that P/N, and especially with those holes in it, then I promise you it's a hollow bar.

These are the P/Ns for the thirdgen swaybars. The 36mm is hollow, as is one of the 34mm bars but I don't know which is which.

Front:
36mm 14094344
34mm 14094339
34mm 14073013
32mm 14047917
30mm 14047916
27mm 14019268

Rear:
24mm 10035033
21mm 10021221
18mm 10021220

 

Hoppie I had a 36mm hollow up front when i sold it. I should have pulled it off. so i know that the 36 hollows exist. they came on ws6's

 

Am I the only one on the face of this earth with a 23mm solid rear sway bar factory from GM? Guess I have the crown jewel of rare collectable swaybars. Sorry, no its not for sale.

 

I was pretty much under the impression that the rear bar that everyone was calling a 24mm was actually a 23. I’ve never actually measured the 2 that I have laying around.

 

My initial experience with it years back was I went to the local performance parts store that stocked ES bushings and bought a set of 24mm bushings for it (they stocked 24mm & 22, no 23mm). The 24mm bushings slopped on it. The bar of course should not be tight inside the bushing, but it should not have wobble to it either. I had to special order 23mm bushings for it directly from ES holding the bushing in you hand clamped around the bar the 24 was wobbly, the 23mm bushing was perfect fit with snug but freedom of movement.

 

Which is stronger: 36mm solid of hollow. Logic seems to indicate the solid, but I've been told the hollow should be less prone to torsional movement.

 

MAYBE YOU DO ! and I have the ONLY 36 MM solid bar in existance we should put them together on a 1984 IROC-Z w/ a factory 350 and a six speed

 

Solid is stiffer than a hollow but not by much. Hollow is superior because it offers almost the same stiffness but weighs much less.

You can do a on this subject. I and many other have written tons of info on this in earlier posts.

 

ES specifies the same size or up to 3mm smaller. The fact is that poly cold flows and that too small hole will be the same diameter as the sway bar within a few hours of being installed.

I’m pretty sure that GM never made a 36mm front bushing, every factory 36mm front setup that I’ve ever seen had factory 34mm bushings on them.

I’m hoping that you’re kidding…

 

14094388 was the P/N for the bushings used with the 36mm bar. I don't know what the inside diameter actually is, but they're tight as hell around the bar.

 

Personally, I don't care what ES claims or what size everyone is buying for their sway bars. What I do know is if you do not have the correct size then it is not functioning properly. If that is the case that everyone has too tight a bushing on their bars then you are binding and limiting the freedom of the suspenion to move and work in a corner, thus making your cars easier to slide in a corner when hiting a road imperfection.
Measure your bar, buy a bushing molded to that exact size. When the bar is in there and the chassis bushings are torqued down onto the bar, they should be snug against the bar but the bar should not stay up on its own without the end links attached. You should be able to move it up and down but not side to side persay(unless you are really pulling on it, or lifting it up and down while pulling it sideways. It will walk sideways if twisted up and down) Once the bushings are broken in slightly they will then pull side to side also.
So you want them snug to begin with but not too tight to be holding the ends of the bar from falling on their own. If this is happening, then go to the next size up in bushing.

 

Bumpa, what spring rates are you running? If you're going to a road course often you'll definitely want to re-spring the car. Sway bars can only do so much for you even with the best factory springs.

Are you just going out to have fun or are you planning on building the car to compete?

Just as a reference for you, I'm running 1000lb/in springs up front with the 36mm bar, 225lb/in springs in the rear with a 19mm bar, and Koni Yellows all the way around. No relocation brackets of any kind. The car is not loose with this setup, very forgiving with my driving ability right now. Though, I'm not driving it to the edge yet either.

I know it's tempting to want to tune the car, but to tell you the truth if you've never been on a road course before you're going to probably want to just concentrate on hitting your line, heel-toe, and making sure you're comfortable in traffic.

I'm a road course newbie as well and to tell you the truth, I would've been much better off just throwing a set of Konis on a stock car and learning to drive. The skillset to drive a road course well is huge and isnt' something you can become good at in a weekend. Not trying to knock any abilities you have, but this is coming from my experience.

 

I replaced my entire suspension with ES bushings, Moog HD springs (HD Z28 in the rear), KYB spring dampers, a new set of BFG g-Force T/A KDWS tires & all new stock steering linkages/gearbox. Handles stupid tight now!

 

Car has Eibach Pro-kit springs & bilstein struts in the front, and new (ordered them from GM) springs & shocks in the rear (I can't recall which year springs I went with 82-92 but I remeber getting the highest rate ones I could I belive '89 IROC-Z or something I'd have to look it up)

Anyway at one time the car weighed in at 3240 but has gained some weight since then. I plan on lightening it up again and making it "somewhat" competitive against the other friends that plan on the road course experience w/ me.

I have quite a bit of AutoX experience in the car so hopefully that seat time will help me some but I do realize that this is gonna be a new thing.... I hope it goes well:

http://www.millermotorsportspark.com/trackOverview.cfm

 

I was

 

Yea utah! ha ha j/k. i have an iroc with a 34mm in the front and a 24mm in the rear, would i want a smaller rear sway bar if i was to road race?

 

Depends on how the car handles. With stock springs, maybe not. With stiffer springs and a stock height panhard bar brackets, probably want to go smaller.

It's driver preference though, some people like a loose car and some people would rather push.

 

Slightly loose/fast/oversteering is always the faster way around, right up to the point where you find yourself going off the course backwards or when your tires give up.

In general better drivers then to like cars with stiffer rear suspensions (more prone to oversteer) then lesser drivers. But those lesser drivers will usually go much faster with a car that understeers a little since they usually can’t keep a car right on the edge, and you’re less prone to make really time consuming mistakes with a car that understeers (making this a better combination for the street, since what’s a time consuming mistake on a track is an expensive mistake on the street).

Like I already said, I like something in the 900-1000lb in the front and in the low 200’s in the rear (stiffer then eiabach pro springs in the front, much stiffer in the rear) but relatively soft, 32mm solid front (I’m guessing the similar to a 34 hollow, but I’ve never managed to get my hands on one) and something in the 19mm range in the back (the back I usually use rubber bushings also to soften the bar up a little more).

The current combination on my formula is eibach pro springs in the front and some just over 200lb/in specific rate springs in the rear, with a 36mm hollow in the front and that same 19mm rear bar with poly bushings. If I’m running significantly bigger rear tires I’ll swap the 24mm WS6 bar in in the back. Judging from the autox video that I have of that combination and what I’m feeling I’d be faster with a stiffer rear, but the current combination makes it look easy going around the cones… even when I’m going fairly fast it looks like I’m just puttering around the cones, very rarely locking a tire or sliding around anywhere, if anything the car looks dead neutral, with the only real sliding was the front end kicking out in a bad turn with a bump in the middle of it that tended to result in locked front brakes.

The fact is that what will work for you depends on you. I suspect that most people will like a proportionately softer rear suspension then I do and may even have a problem keeping that setup on the pavement. Most seem happier with MUCH softer rear springs, like the eibach ones and a slightly stiffer rear sway bar.

 

Sorry, but thats the stupid **** i've ever heard. Torsion, as in how a swaybar works has nothing to do with that. Don't get me wrong because i really respect some stuff you say. But you have no clue what the **** your talkin about on alot of stuff. Your still cool in my book Dean, but please!

 

Boy did you come out of left feild on this response

You need to go back again and re-read what I wrote then then respond a second time- you completely misunderstood what I am talking about for some reason. I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT SWAYBAR TORSION.
What I am describing is how tight you what the sway bar chassis mount bushings so that the swaybar has freedom of moverment with the wheels and does not bind in the chassis holds- this allows the suspension to move freely without bind, yet allows the swaybar to work most effectively between the chassis and the bar also.

The ideal world for swaybar chassis mounts are spherical bearing mounts that hold the bar snug against the chassis to eliminate slop but allow the bar to move freely twisting within them so the end link arms move up and down freely. This- however- can not used with a 1pc swaybar setup (only on a 3pc swaybar) so we have to use urethane mounts and make sure they are snuged properly but still allow the bar to twist freely inside them.

 

Ideal, yea.

But in this world you don't always get that. take a set that were a little on the small side, bolt them up tight for a little bit and you'll find that they're just right after a little while. Add some grease (which you need to either way) and you won’t be able to tell the exactly right bushing from the slightly small bushing after a day or so.

Spherical bearings are probably overkill, but maybe aluminum blocks with durlin liners…

As far as GM pn’s, I’m pretty sure that that is the one that in more recent years actually has 34mm cast into the side of it.

 

I remember reading, back in the day, that the 1984 15th Ann. T/A came with a 25mm rear bar.

Anyone care to comment on this, as I have no proof, other than the old magizine articles.

Leon.

 

I've got the 36mm Hollow one for sale off of my 90 Formula.

 

How much do you want for it shipped to 84341 ???

OH and I love the AUTOX pic of your car here is one of mine:

P.S. I missed the cone

 

I am not really sure what to ask for the bar, but I don't want too much.

When you got the bars you ordered, how were they packaged?

In that auto-x pic, I am not sure if that is my first or second run. In the first run, I drove like a madman and was knocking cones down left and right since it was the first time with the new KYB shocks/struts, Eaton Posi, and 4.10 gears.
The 3rd and 4th runs had my brother as a passenger, and he was very impressed with how well my car handled.

here is a vid from earlier this summer with the Torsen Posi and 3.73 gears.
http://www.transamws6.com/video/manny-acu4.wmv

 

You've got a PM...

They had a LARGE tag / sticker around the center of the bar with a bar code / shipping label on it, and another tag held through the hole in the end with a nylon tie that had the Part # info on it.

 

Supposedly it does exist, some people say they have them. But i have no proof that they do exist. If they do they are very rare.

 

Knowing GM, they were probably trying to get rid of an overstock of 25mm bars from another vehicle and called it a special edition.

 

JamesC