89blackbird

OK , I have heard about every possible way to start and break in a new motor. What do you guys say??? Once started how long do you let it run and at what RPM. How many run - cool down cycles before you push the engine?? Some guys say run it the way you want it to run. this sounds a bit crazy to me. Whats the best thing for a new engine??? Thanks

checkeye

pre oil it first...
Run it at cam manufactures suggestion. 2000 or so for at least twenty minutes.
When I worked at the auto store the guy there built NASCAR motors. He started 'em and ran the crap out of them. Checked everything over then started dyno pulls.

Vader

89,

Describe your "new engine". Does it have a flat tappet cam or rollers? Chrome or moly-faced rings? Heavy cross-hatch or polished bores? Stock oil clearances of tight/loose shells? Tight ring gaps? Are you running a stock thermostat, a cold one, electronic ignition and EST or a manually retarded distributor?

There are lots of variables depending on the build. GM recommends the following for factory built engines:

RECOMMENDED ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURE

1. SAFETY FIRST! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.

2. Be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system

3. Run engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 min.

4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.

5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.

6. After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).

7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.

8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

10. Change the oil and filter with 10w30SG oil and PF1218 AC Delco oil filter (PN 251605610

11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.

12. Change the oil and oil filter again.

("Borrowed" from the GMPP web site.)

13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!

checkeye

much better...

87transam5.7tpi

I built a 305 for one of my fun cars and I started it and broke it in for about 10 min, shut it off let it cool, then started it back up for another 15-20 min. while I was adusting the timing,etc.

ronterry

Those Nascar cam's, lifters, & rockers TODAY are broke in on a machine. This machine is wild, it's basicly an engine block without a bottom end. There's a electic motor that turns the whole thing.

The most I've learned on the rings are, that they use a very small rings for less drag, and those engines DO consume a fair amount of oil ? I guess they seat a little, but hell a 500 mile race, who cares.

On topic, I use a box fan in front of the radiator when breaking in.
Have a friend eye the ground under the engine for leaks.
Relax, if the engine breaks this is where you want it to.
Never had an engine break during the break in, 500 mile down the road, that's a different story costly at that awww.

Yea, I like 2500 RPM's for 30 minutes, but don't over heat it !

hmmm, I like to change after a break in. We probably all use a different amount of moly greese in a rebiuld. That stuff loves to clog up a oil filter.


Ron

89blackbird

OK, so we agree to run the engine at 2000-2500 rpms for 30mins. keeping an eye for leaks and temp. I hope to be running a 160 thermostat at that time with a chip. I should have slp headers and runners. I will have 89 corvette heads (aluminum) and zz4 corvette cam. What is the fastest easiest way to precharge the oil system? (drill at distributor?) I will be trying to get clearences as close to stock as possible. Any other suggestions??????

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

"ZZ4 Corvette cam"? What's that? If you mean the ZZ4 cam, it uses roller lifters, and doesn't need the 2000 RPM initial run-in. Skip that step and move on to the rest.

The best way to prime the oiling system is to get a tool for the job - about $20. It goes in place of the distributor and you turn it with a drill (with oil in the pan, of course) to turn the oil pump and get oil through the system before you crank over the rest of the engine. You can also use it to align the oil pump shaft when you go to install the distributor.

Personally, I change the oil after the initial run-in, before the part-throttle 5000 RPM runs).

89blackbird

zz4 corvette cam is a bad habit I picked up from the guys around here. They always say " put that zz4 cam from a corvette in there. My mistake. I came from the old school when we all dreamed of corvette parts in our cars. back then Corvette was the american dream car. I will say it still is a nice ride. Use poor working guys have to stick with our thrid gens and just shock the hell out of vette guys . ( for alittle while anyways)

Fastcamaro87

ok i am rebuilding the motor in my 87 iroc : I am going to keep all the clearances as close to stock as possible, I have an LT1 cam with roller lifters,also have installed Sealed power Moly rings, electronic ignition with EST ,stock 195 thermostat, heavy cross hatch, rest of info in sig.

what will the break in procedue be for my motor?

Fastcamaro87

btt

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Everything in Vader's list except the 2000-2500 RPM cam run-in. You can set the timing where it says to do a rough adjustment. I like to drain the oil and change the filter after the first 30 minutes of running, before driving it, to get the assembly lube out.

Moly rings can take longer to break in, but the worst that will cause is a little more leakdown and possible slightly higher oil consumption until they do seat.

I do the switch to synthetic at Step 12.

wiggy'sIROC

Very good info! I didn't notice this in the FAQ section or in the Tech articles. I know this question has been asked before and a lot of people build motors around this site. Should one of us write a Tech article?

Mark

Fastcamaro87

yeah i think a tech article would be great

Irocster

Sorry, I know this is really really old, I hope you guys are still alive. Anyways, at initial start-up, since I will be using a roller cam, is the only thing I have to worry about is getting the coolant/water mixture in the radiator? I mean, the engine needs to be running to prevent the "hot spots."

About how long do you need to prime the oil with the drill? Also, can someone tell me the procedure of installing the new distributor into the new engine....like what all do I need to line up? Thank you