ForMySon

My son bought this 85 z28 with an older carbed 350. He flipped it 5 times, but engine still turns. So he bought a gutted 86 IROC with hacked wires to put the 350 in.

So far,
-pulled engine and trans and painted engine and accessories.
-pulled all wiring out of 85 z28 and put on 86.
-currently we are pulling the gas tank out of the 85 to put on 86.
-next we will put engine in 86 and start, yeah.

These pix are awesome.

ForMySon

The car was just all flat black. So my son taped off the car and added some green paint. It is very getto, but the car looks awesome.

ForMySon

We had to pull the dash out of both cars then put the 85 wires into the 86. A big pain in the arssse.

Pic of both wiring harnesses and the engine before we painted it.

ForMySon

Engine taped off and painted.
Accessories painted.
Painted engine waiting on headers.

ForMySon

Engine with headers and spark plugs n wires.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Interesting color choices-- very different & 1-of-a-kind.

Looks like you were able to get the harnesses out without cutting wires!

ForMySon

Thanx. I had nothing to do with the painting. I'm just making sure it will all hook up and run properly. I've never done anything like this before. I'm kinda lookin at it like an expert level model. Everything has a place.

The harnesses came out pretty easy once all the wires were disconnected. Mainly the c100 connector inside and all wires under steering collumn. I pulled the wires out still attached to the dash and reinstalled by securing harness to dash first, then putting dash in car. Reattaching the steering column wires was a little tedious and properly routing the wires through that area. If not done right, the metal under the dash will cut through some wires.

I'm not sure what we will do with the 86 harness. I also still have the 85 ecm passenger harness with the metal boxes. How much do these harnesses sell for?

Things I still need to figure out:
1. How to properly wire the fuel tank and pump.
2. Torque converter lock up.
On the 85, the prior owner had these still running through ECM (computer). He didn't do it right.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

is the fuel pump relay still intact? and as for the TC lock up, theres companys that make kits to control the 700r4s lockup in a non computer controlled application. they do require pulling the trans pan to install though.

ForMySon

Where's the fuel pump relay located?

Yes, just found a TC lock up kit at summit racing. Looks easy to install.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

should be on the firewall somewhere. should have an orange wire that runs to a seperate fuse near the battery. a black wire, a green wire, a gray or tan wire that runs to the driver side bulkhead connector, and red wire that doesnt plug into anything.

ForMySon

Is this the fuel pump relay? This is from an 85'. I've tried several searches on this site, but must be using wrong key words.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

that looks like the esc (electronic spark control) and since its a carbed application with an HEI dizzy, that can go away.

but im not 100% certain on that.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

should look something like this

ForMySon

I don't think I need a fuel pump relay. It's got a mechanical pump on the block.

Anyhow, finaly, we put the motor/trans in the 86'. Again, car wasn't raised high enough in the front, so we had problems angleing it in properly. It took us 8 hours.

NathanLewis

Car looks like a hotwheel. I dig it!

92 CaMaRo Rs

Keep it up man, makes me wanna go work on my car. I havnt been n the shop in almost 5 months to even look at her.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

if you have an intank electric pump, using the mech fuel pump will require you to drop the tank and remove the pump and replace it with a carb style pickup. trying to draw fuel through the non working electric pump will cause fuel starvation issues.

ForMySon

We finaly got everything hooked up. But it wouldn't start. We did some tests and determined starter was bad. What the heck, buy a new starter any ways to make sure. Now it still won't start.

What we've checked:
-power at park/nuetral/safety in both purple and yellow wires with key in start.
-power on both sides of c100 purple wire, and at starter on purple wire, although just a light check (not voltage) and didn't remove purple wire from starter.
-new battery--grounded to block, and body. checked grounds and they are good.

This is when we bought the new starter. Hooked it up, and nothing, no even a click. We looked for a Vats system and didn't locate one. We also didn't find a starter relay. What am I missing?

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the VATS module is burried in the dash. next to impossible to get to. the starter enable relay would be under the driverside kick panel, usual buried under a black square of goo.

ForMySon

Here a pic. The bottom harness is the 85 we used. The top is the 86. I looked for wires coming out of steering column to check frequency of vats so I could buy resistors to bypass. No such wires were found on either harness.

kick panel for start relay should be on left side wall. Nothing in their, on both cars. Even looked for colored wires coming out of steering column that leads to starter relay, no wires exist on both harnesses. Besides that, I did check power to distributer battery terminal on start, and am getting power to it. Doesn't that mean, the problem isn't in my start relay, ignition, or nuetral safety?

Look at pic I posted in early post, it has both harnesses on it. Can you see any vats box on it?

Shadow Z

iTrader: (2)

That paint scheme reminds me of grave digger the truck. Pretty cool build.

ForMySon

Yahoo!!!! Engine cranks, but didnt try to fire it yet. The purple wire didn't go to the R terminal on starter, but instead the S terminal.

Still to do list:
-get u-joints out of drive shaft, and balance
-get AC/Power steering bracket cut to fit with headers
-third brake light needs to be rewired
-find short in left headlights wiring
-swap out power booster and master cylinder, and redo braking system
-buy exhaust system to hook up to headers
-fix and charge AC
-hook up awesome stereo system
-redo entire interior with new carpeting and redo all apostery
-have suspension checked by a real mechanic, then upgrade
-figure out gear ratio and change to match engine/trans combo
-check to make sure fuel system has enough psi

I've got alot to do still. I have to say that this was the biggest car project I've ever done. With a few car manuals, schematics, and THIS WEBSITE, I somehow figure it out. Thank God my son did most of the wrenching and work. We have three more cars to do and I'm looking forward to the challenge -- 82 olds cutlass supreme, 91 Firebird, 03 Mustang v6 saleen.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

i shoulda asked about the terms on the starter...the s stands for solenoid, which is for the purple wire and the purple wire only.

ForMySon

No, you're ok, with so many things to check, it was the last thing I check. We did get the car to turn over, only 2 or 3 rotation and it fired and ran so perfectly, (I peed a little). Then we drove it around the block as a victory run in the face of all the neighbor nay sayers who didn't think we knew what we were doing.

Now, I need help with the rear disc brakes on this 86. Park brake will not engage, brake pedal is spongy (near to the floor). I think I have the recalled brakes.

I've search and found tidbits, but nothing usefull. Pictures would be nice, the haynes I have is almost no help.

Do I need to start a new thread so people can see I need help?

travis401

iTrader: (1)

if the car sat for more than a year, id flush the brake fluid. over time it absorbs moisture out of the air and functions less and less like its supposed to. you might wanna invest in a vacuum bleeder, or one speed bleeder screws. makes the job WAY easier and you dont need the extra pair of hands. just suction out all the old fluid from the reservoir, fill it with new, then bleed the brakes starting from the rear passenger side, then read driver side, then front passenger side, then front driver side. bleed each one until the fluid that comes out is nice and clean and new. just make sure you dont let the reservoir get too low during the whole process.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the parking brake not engaging could be a dmaged cable or something along those lines.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

id also check the brake pads themselves to make sure they still have some meat on them

ForMySon

Brake pads do have plenty of meat.

The car had no fluid when we started. We didn't bleed because the bleeding screws were rusted in place, and was told it may be other recall problem. So, I've applied super lube so we can bleed them. Then I'll see what the brakes are doing.

However, I think its the recall problem, because initially we tried to adjust the parking brake and the brake lever on the back of the caliber isn't on the lever stop. Nor can we adjust the parking brake enough to get it in the right position. In my mind, the piston is not moving out far enough, hence the recall problem, which also causes spongey brakes.

Still, I'll bleed the brakes first before doing anything else.

ForMySon

Bleeding didn't go well. We found a broken brake line to rear passenger that had been fixed with rubber hose. On bleeding, I blew this mickey mouse job.

How do I fix a broken brake line? It's missing a 4 inch piece. Right now we're going to try rubber hose like last person did.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

you want as little rubber in the brake lines as possbile. rubber tends to ballon at pressures. youll want to replace with hardline, not rubber.

ForMySon

What the **** is up with brake lines, power steering lines, they all strip with no effort. Is there a special tool that won't strip these fittings?

More work to do now.

midias

Its the classic nickelodeon car

travis401

iTrader: (1)

they make line fitting wrenches for those. its an almost fully enlosed box type wrench. just a big enough slot in it to slip it over the line and onto the fitting.

midias

Flare wrenches work well for me

ForMySon

I should have known after 20 plus years, special tools. I don't know why I'm gettin mad, my son is doin all the work. You need the right tool for the right job. It's been almost 6 months since we started. My son can hardly wait.

this is the time when we need to just slow down a little.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

same tool, diff name...

ForMySon

Ok, more brake problems. Found a kink in the line to the rear and, the parking brake adjuster is bent. Both need replacing.

How interchangable are these parts, brake line, and, ebrake adjuster?

Can I take these pieces from an 85 IROC?

Also, is there anyway to fix breaks in brake lines?

travis401

iTrader: (1)

i belive the brake hard lines and e brake parts are interchangable across all years. but not 100% sure

travis401

iTrader: (1)

the only way to properly fix the hardline is to splice in a section of appropriate hardline with appropriate flared ends and fittings. or replace the entire hardline.

ForMySon

Still working on the brakes. We replaced the lines from the 85 to the 86 with no problem. Then we bled the rear brakes. However, when we were bleeding the passenger rear, fluid and air stopped passing through, somekind of blockage. Not sure what to do except remove lines and check, unfortunately, it may be blocked in the caliper. Not sure if I want to mess with taking it apart to clear it.

Is it safe to buy just the one caliber, and not a pair?

Also, we have the car running, but we were told to cover up the headers with towels after driving to keep cold air from damaging valves.
IS this true?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The concern with open exhaust is the exhaust valves that are in the open position when the engine stops turning. The theory is cold air can unevenly cool the valve and warp it. Basic physics tells you hot air rises and cold air falls, so if someone can explain to me how cold air is going to rise up from the collector to the exhaust ports, I'm all ears.

Race cars have been running open headers for years, with much hotter operating temps and much more severe stresses. Warped valves from open exhaust isn't a problem. Why it is still discussed as an issue is beyond me.

midias

I would cover them more just to prevent critters from getting in there after it cools.

ForMySon

Ok, thanks for the answers, this place is a great help/resource. Most of my questions are answered with a good search. In good to know this place.

Ok, so the car is done minus:
-windsheild wiper motor(from junkyard),
-third brake light,
-brake overhaul (they work, spongy),
-exhaust to go with headers
-TCC(we're buy a kit from summit for around $60) and,
-alignment done by a professional.
But we drove it up to 40 mph, it runs great, all dash lights work, all everything.

Question on AC/powersteering bracket: the AC compressor isn't lining up strait and angles ever so slightly (it because we had the bracket cut). We put some washers at key points on both other brackets to help angle things a little more. But can't get it any straiter. It's not throwing belt now, but shrieks ever so often; kinda embarassing. What else might I do?

My son looked at me, and said, "I feel like we've beat it, the car." Not the words I'd use, but nevertheless, I sense he feels mojo from this car. A perfect match. Now if he can just drive responsibly and safe.

ForMySon

Who knows for sure. Most of the mechanics I know are old timers full of old time sayings. The particular person who told me this is an old timer (father-in-law). I had to ask, because I heed every word he says; especially because I've seen his cars and his work. He knows his SH*ts.

Of course, I didn't take his advice on this particular issue. We've driven the car a few times now. It is doing just fine.....knocks on wood ever so discreetly.......

travis401

iTrader: (1)

you might wanna make sure you have both brackets from the same car/truck. I made the mistake of grabbing just one from a j/y when i broke the ear off my alt mount. the one i grabbed from a GMC jimmy sat just a fraction of an inch closer to the motor and it kept eatting belts. I couldnt figure out why untill i took a really close look at it. It was pulling the belt off just a tad and causing it to offcenter on the waterpump and rub and eventually shred. So I grabbed a matching set from somone on here and havent had a problem since.

ForMySon

Thanks all. Still working on brakes, located two new rear calibers already updated. We're having a brake shop put them on soon. The current callibers are extremely rusted and tired of stripping/messing with these things. My son can't wait.

Question on timing: I added a new hi-performance distributor cap with rotor, new advance springs, and hi output 50,000 volts. It had three choices of parts for the advance with different springs. I choice the middle set which I think has a 24 degree advance. The advance curve may be different than stock. How do I tune this or make sure i'm not gonna blow the engine? The timing has not been changed.

Let me rephrase: if i drive it, how do I tell if it is advancing properly?