Nighthawkf-117

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

Did the LS1 brake conversion, and will be replacing shocks and coils. So needless to say i need a front end alignment. I have found numerous tutorials about how to do it yourself using some homemade tools and a caster/camber gauge. Does anyone here do front end alignments themselves? I plan on making constant changes to the front end over time so id like to learn to do it myself.

Any tips on the process?

Will this gauge work?

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ca...auge-P192.aspx

Any other input?

Thanks,
Bill

Nighthawkf-117

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any imput?

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

I saw your thread the other day, but my brain has been so fried over the last few weeks because of overtime at work that I could not think of anything to say lol.

You need a flat surface to do the alignment on. Preferably a perfectly flat machined garage floor (use a bubble level to find if the floor is flat; or self-leveling laser level if you have one).

I use garbage bags for turn plates.

Do you have an idea of what you want your static caster/camber to be?

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

I think this is the gauge that I'm currently using: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Camber_Gauges

It's a cheap piece but it works.

I used to have a way nicer longacre C/C gauge but it was stolen right out of my garage!

I still use my longacre toe plates and I can recommend them. They work good. I'll get you a product # for the toe plates later tonight.

Nighthawkf-117

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the response!

I was thinking Camber at -1 and Caster at +5 on the left and +5.5 on the right and about 3/32 toe to start with. Then do some playing with pressures and settings to get the best handing characteristics.

Could you elaborate on the garbage bags for turn plates?

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

No problem. I got the idea from someone right here on TGO that does a lot of autox course runs. Just get a set of cheap contractor garbage bags; and spray the insides with WD-40. Try not to get WD-40 on the outside of the bag (as the outside will be touching your tires). It's cheap and works well; its what I've been using for years.

If I'm not mistaken you can buy slip-plates on racer parts wholesale online. But this is a cheaper alternative.

I'll be surprised if you can get -1 camber. You might be able to get -.7 camber; but each car is different. I'll get you the toe-plate part #'s later tonight...

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

Here is the longacre toe plate part #: 79505

You can see them here:
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...tes+%28pair%29

They sell cheaper ones btw.

Nighthawkf-117

iTrader: (1)

Awesome this is exactly what i was looking for!

Have you ever tried the string method of measuring toe?

What do you think of the string method compared to the toe plates?

Any opinions on the process outlined here?
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis...ignment-guide/

RBob

iTrader: (1)

I've done the string method and it is a pain, kept tripping over or knocking the strings out of alignment. In a garage they are in the way.

I now use two laser pointers like the contractors use. Set one each up on a jackstand at the rear of the vehicle. One on each side pointing toward the front. Use a 6" scale (ruler) to square up each beam with it's rear rim.

Then use the scale at the front rims to measure the toe.

Be sure to take the batteries out of the laser pointers before storing them.

RBob.

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

RBob is right, its a pain to use string. It takes forever lol. I only used the string method one time, and that was enough for me. I will say that I was surprised at how accurate it was. My car tracked perfectly afterwards.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

That is the exact item that I use, I like it. Easy to use and I have verified that it reads accurately. As said before make sure the floor is level before attempting. I have some 6' measuring sticks with larger levels in them that work well for this.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I might try it in the spring time before I start driving it again. I would think you would need to use some fishing line instead of the string I have seen in pictures and videos. Some people are using some thick string that doesn't seem to have a firm edge for measuring by 1/32"

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I wrote a thread on this a while back, I had pretty good luck with it. I keep changing things around though, so I keep throwing it back off, but it just makes me glad I can get it in the ball park on my own. When you take it in for an alignment all they usually do is set toe and send you on your way, and to set toe I just use strings and jackstands. Now this laser pointed thing I will have to think about... seems promising...

I want to get the longacre caster/camber gauge that threads onto the spindle. I figure you can just pull the hub cover off and thread it on, and it should attach a LOT better than the other type, but I dont have it in my hands so Im not sure. But they make magnetic ones too which may be worth looking into.

But the key is, I think, to make sure you line up the front tires with the rear tires instead of just setting them in reference to the other front tire. That will get you the toe setting you want, but it doesnt mean the steering wheel will be straight when you do it. It takes some patience and practice to get good with the string method, but I've done it a few times. It still takes me a good 30-45 minutes to get it right on. But even going from my 16x8's to 17x9.5's throws it off because the 17x9.5s throw the contact patch farther out, meaning the front sits slightly lower, meaning the spring is pushing against a longer lever arm, meaning the tires toe in more - essentially - bump steer. Its not huge, but I can see it in the string.

I find the thickness of the string doesnt really matter much. As long as it's taut you're fine. Even if it sags from gravity, the line you're measuring should be perpendicular to that sag, so the measurements should still come out in the ball park ,and honestly, anything we do at home with string is going to be a rough "in the ballpark" adjustment, not a precision one. Accuracy depends on how careful and patient you are and how well you take notes (which I've found is the important part. With all the adjustment cycles and re-measuring and crawling form different sides of the car it's REAL easy to get confused about which way you're trying to go.). Fishing line is probably better if you have a good way to anchor it, though...

RBob

iTrader: (1)

When I was using the string, it was mono-filament fishing line. Used a weight on one end and looped around the jack stand on the other end. The weight kept tension on the line.

RBob.

Nighthawkf-117

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all this input guys!

I have one last question. For turn plates do i simply need a way to measure the angle the wheels are pointing? So some heavy duty clear plastic bags with degree markings on them?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

To measure caster need to turn the wheels 20* each way and record the camber. The difference in camber times 1.5 is the caster in degrees.

Some bubble gauges have flats on the outer corners that are at 20*.

Can also chalk the floor to get the proper steering angle.

RBob.