krisner89

Hey everyone. Got a short block today for $1000. Its the good 010 350 block(4 bolt main)bored .030 over. Scat Forged 383 crank(all balanced with flywheel and balancer included). Forged H-beam rods. clevite bearings. trw Forged pistons. I'm not sure on the pistons though. I know there .030 over trw but not sure on specs. I was told with 64cc heads it'll give it a 12 to 1 compression ratio. The number on the piston is L-2252A. Anybody know

krisner89

The engine was a complete engine and never ran. Was a backup engine for his car and never ran till 2 years after it was built. The rings wouldn't seat when he went to get it running. The reason for that was because it sat assembled that long and never broke in. Any truth to that? Was told all it needs is new rings. Everything else is ready.

It was a 650hp pump gas engine but the cam and heads came off to go on a different engine. So I need to know what cam and heads I should get for it. All I want is pump gas friendly with 150 shot nitrous. I want to stay far away from higher octane race fuels. thanks

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Doubt it
Engines don't go "off" in storage like that apple in the back of your fridge

If the rings didn't seat 1st time around most likely the bores will need re-honing so the fresh rings bed in

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Google works

"Also, these are not 12.5:1 pistons, CR ranges from ~10.2:1 to 11.9:1 depending on the head chamber size used and the amount of overbore."

Your true CR will be determined by the deck height as well; without knowing exactly what that is anything is a guess

1gary

Good call.

krisner89

OK thanks. Tried Google but no luck with pistons. Ill try again but here is some pics if it helps any. Ill see if I can find out deck height also.

krisner89

PO said block is square decked and wasn't milled down. So 0 is deck height or stock. What deck height would you call that exactly?

Other threads are saying they are 11cc or .220 dome pistons. PO said there flat tops(0+/_ cc)
To me they don't look like flat tops. Im lost

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

As per my comment above , they are pop up ( dome ) piston , the size of the dome varies

If the PO doesn't even know what pistons he has , anything else he says is questionable
Put the engine at TDC and see if the flat part of the piston is level or below the block deck
See
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_08.html

krisner89

Ok thanks vetteoz. I just searched for a good machine shop and took engine there today. He's going to look into what those pistons are exactly. Just by looking at them he thinks compression's going to be to high (even with 76cc heads) to be able to run pump gas. He wants to put new bearings also to be safe. So pistons,rings,bearings, and oil pump & pick up is what I'm expecting it needs. Hopefully its under $1k for all that. Money goes fast on this stuff LOL

Ill keep you updated after bottom end is done. Then try to decide on the top end.

krisner89

Engine is back from machine shop and decided not to build it. Has 350 pistons. 5.565 length rods, and a 400 crank. Really confused me on pistons cause I figured it was a typical 383 with 5.7 rods. Piston part#s were making no sense cause there for 350.

So instead of spending a ton of money just to detune the damn thing so I can run pump gas. I'll probably sell it. Only thing now Im not 100% sure of is the crank. It measured 3.75 at machine shop but not sure on brand and if its forged or not. Was told it was Scat forged but not looking like it from my research. Any way to find out EXACTLY what crank this is

cuisinartvette

There should be some kind of PN starmped on it somewhere probably on the front counterweight

He built the cheapest version of a 383 he could...650hp. So many bsers out there. It takes a small miracle to get that kind of power out of a 383

Heres to hoping you get your project worked out

DeltaElite121

It's a factory cast crank if it's set up like that. SCAT doesn't make stroker cranks for the original methods of making a 383 because things have changed and technology has gotten better making that an obsolete way of building a stroker. You should see some type of obvious marking or name casting like this if they used one of SCAT's 400 cranks (which I heavily doubt based on what you've been told):





For future reference (without sounding too harsh here): this is exactly why you don't buy used motors/parts unless you know what you're looking at... and even then, exercise with caution. Whoever you bought it from lied to you and knew they were screwing you over.

D_Smith87

its one of those oldschool slapped together builds, scat and any other aftermarket manufacturer will stamp there info on their products, u have one of those builds that you can make like a reliable 450 horsepower max with the right build, granted u get hyper pistons,arp bolts and a decent balance going on. slap some dart iron eagles with a 2000-6000 cam and run the **** out of it. all these new 383s you can spin the hell out of because the way the way those rotating assemblies are designed not gonna get the same sorta performance outta a old heavy 400 crank setup.

krisner89

found a few #s. This one is on rear counterweight

krisner89

These are on front counterweight
One looks like 38?
other is M2

krisner89

Don't know if it helps but here's a pic that hasn't been machined.

krisner89

you guys think its a GM or aftermarket crank. Cast or forged.

D_Smith87

Nearly all aftermarket manufacturers will engrave their own serial numbers and their logo onto it, so probably GM if your not finding much. GM puts serial numbers on cranks too.

krisner89

Sold engine to a circle track guy last summer. Where it belongs.