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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
I just found this site on a whim. Hope someone can help me with the issue I'm having. I bought a 1990 Rs a few weeks ago and everything was going well until one day I went to start it. When I turned the key over nothing happened so I tried about 6 more times and it fired up. Now it will not start at all but I do have all my lights on the dash, the radio works and even my Secerity light does like normal flashes 5 times then goes off. VAT system isn't the issue because the whole system has been changed to take any key. I was told by a mechanic to drop the steering column and on top there is a blue box that is responsible for sending a signal to let everything fire up. I did find it but I can't see how to take it off or if this is truly the issue. A friend thought it was the starter so I replaced that yesterday and it wasn't the problem. The guy I bought it from said he had replaced it with one off of another Camero a little over a year ago. Can someone please help me by telling me what the box on top of the steering column is called? Or even how to replace it? I've got to get this car running ASAP as this is my ride to work every day. Just need so advice and thanks in advance.
You should start figuring out if things are getting power that need it. You'll need a test light and some patience. http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m..._continued.gif
Check to see if the purple wire is getting power with the key in 'crank'. If no power, work your way back. The part the previous owner is referring to is the ignition switch. Not the key switch....ignition switch. It's shown in the diagram.
How was your VATS bypassed? Check to see if it was done by splicing a resistor into the plug that the orange wire coming from your tumbler goes to under your steering column. If it's not then your problem is likely to be the orange wire from the tumbler with the 2 small white wires inside it has been severed somewhere along the line and that's your problem. And it doesn't cause your security light to stay on. Several people have been having this problem including me and that seems to be the issue for a lot of people. Me on the other hand, I think The GM gods hate me so there's no fix for my car... Just kidding (I hope).
well I replaced the ignition switch on top of steering column today because that's what I was told was the problem.....well now I just don't know what the crap is going on. Because it still doesn't start. I was told to take off the negative battery terminal for a few then put it back so I did and the car started. I cut the car off tried to start it again and guess what?! It didn't start!! I don't understand this but I did it twice the same way after a few minutes (10) at least it would fire up. But like I said after I cut it off it won't start. Can anyone tell me if this sounds like a ground issue? Ground wire to frame is very tight just FYI.
I recently helped my buddy get his 92 rs running, ended up having to bypass vats, had to dig into the steering column the wires were separated inside. For your issue I would check components like start relay before just replacing random parts. or just do what I did and bypass the ignition circuit.
I have a very similar problem like the one you have. Just logged in to ask about it when I saw your post. I hope you don't mind me shadowing you on this one?
I have an IROC 350 TPI with the anit-theft still installed. I also changed my starter some time ago because it didn't crank at all. After this it worked but soon after I experienced the same thing again... about to call a tow but then it suddenly started.
After this it has been starting until today, about three weeks and not much driving though. I tried and tried, moved the shifter stick through the gears, fiddling with the key switch but no sign of life. Battery is fine, fuel pump works when ignition is on. Almost gave up but decided to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Voila -it started again!
Don't mind at all bud. I just did some more research and looked into the starter relay. After reading for a few found on my 90 that it was located on the driver side kick panel. (Behind) one guy said to cross the wires the orange and yellow wire together would bypass it. I have bypassed my VATS anyway so you don't from my understanding need the starter relay any more. I did what they said and pulled the kick panel only to discover there was a red wire that had been put in like a jumper from the orange to yellow. I pushed the red wire up farther in the relay and I'll be damn it has started everytime so far. So this weekend I'll probably go ahead and splice these wires together. Hope this helps you out as well.
Thanks a lot for your tips Foley! Will have a look at this.
aliceempire, I agree that is the proper way to locate the source of the problem. That will probably be done later (and not only for this particular circuit).
is what it should have been sorry about that. Also just to let you know when I went to work she fired right up and when I left work no problem either. Hope you get yours fixed.
Sorry for my late reply (I've been away on vacation) Okay, that I understood -thanks a lot for sharing your experience Foley! When I get back I'll try to get to the bottom with this. Will let you know how it works out!
Today I got into the wire harnesses behind the kick panel on the drivers side, searching for the possibly faulty start enable relay. I think I found it - is this the right one?
It looks like someone tampered with it. Why did they do this do you think?
One of the connectors is not on -do you know why and which?
I also found this connector hanging loos all by itself, it might have been white/purple or yellow/purple. Any ideas of what it is?
I don't know why but I'll go back to this again.....http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m..._continued.gif Have you used a test light and a wiring schematic before? You'll stop guessing when you know what has power and what doesn't. You are correct, that relay is NOT factory. But the wire colors are not correct for the starter enable relay either. (see schematic) Check your wires and start finding out what has power that should have power.
Hi again aliceimpire and thanks for taking your time with this stubborn and ignorant guy. No, I have not used a test light before but I think I understand the principle. I will have a try but will it give any result as long as it is starting? 19 out of 20 times it does. I my head the error must occur when testing, am I wrong?
About that relay. Yes I can now see it's not according to the wiring schematic, it should only have four connectors, right?
Another thing about the relay. I found one at a local parts shop today which said to deliver 20-30 amps. How do I know if this is correct (if it turns out I need to change it).
Hi again aliceimpire and thanks for taking your time with this stubborn and ignorant guy. No, I have not used a test light before but I think I understand the principle. I will have a try but will it give any result as long as it is starting? 19 out of 20 times it does. I my head the error must occur when testing, am I wrong?
About that relay. Yes I can now see it's not according to the wiring schematic, it should only have four connectors, right?
Another thing about the relay. I found one at a local parts shop today which said to deliver 20-30 amps. How do I know if this is correct (if it turns out I need to change it).
BR,
Per
Since it's an intermittent start, you'll need to test for power next time it fails. I'd start at the purple wire on the starter. With the key turned to the crank postion, the small purple wire on the should have power. If it does, you'll know it's just an intermittent starter problem. In which I've seen more than once.
The relay doesn't deliver 20-30 amps, that's not how it works. Rather it'll handle a circuit that draws 20-30 amps. I have no idea what that relay you found is connected to. You may want to trace wires before you worry about replacing it. The relay can be tested easily. Put power to 85,(there are little numbers next to each terminal.) ground 86, and the relay's curcuit will jump 30 to either 87 or 87a, depending on if the circuit is tripped or not. You'll need a mutlimeter to test that too. You should hear a click when you power and ground 85 and 86. Did I get too far ahead of you yet? I'll try to stay on your level to help you along.
Thanks again! Hm, no I think I can follow, though I've never performed it before. Next time it happens I will have the multimeter ready (it's already in the car). I'll be back!
After quite some time and tinkering, parts changed etc. I still have problems with the car not wanting to crank sometimes. Last yesterday when it was test drived with a quite hot engine.
Switched it off and one minute later it wouldn't start - no sign of life except volt gauge needle dropping when turning the ignition key. Darn!
Tried again just one or maximum two minutes later and bam, it started! Didn't do anything in between so this tells me it shouldn't be neither the VATS system failing or gear shifter sensors, right?
Starter, alternator and battery recently switched for new ones.
Any ideas?
Well, actually the lighting in the dash hasn't worked since I bought it (but is on the fix list). What I meant was that I heard no clicking and no reaction what so ever from the starter. The only reaction I could see from turning the key was the volt gauge needle dropping, which is exactly the same that's happened a few times before.
Does this tell you anything?
Last time I had that on a gm, the starter solenoid was failing. It's not uncommon for them to work then stop working then work again. That DOESN'T mean the starter IS the culprit. Without knowing if the starter is getting all the correct power and good ground (while it has problems not starting) then it's ONLY A GUESS.
Well, this might be the problem but I think it's strange since the starter itself (including solenoid of course) is brand new since this summer. Also, after starting again the engine was jumping uo and down in rev, behaving very strange (it didn't right before this happened)!
This has been a problem for some time which was the reason it was worked upon with new battery, connections, fuel filter, earth straps (one from each cylinder head). Never connected the two symptoms together though. Do you think they are?
I had a bad starter solenoid cause this type of issue as well. It'd work great sometimes and then leave me stranded. I'd leave the key in the on position for a few minutes and it'd often get it to go. Check all wiring and such, grounds, wiring to the starter, etc.
Make sure the starter has some heat shielding material to help keep the heat off the solenoid as well. Heat soak is a common issue with these starter solenoids.
07-13-2015, 02:18 AM
what? 
is what it should have been sorry about that. Also just to let you know when I went to work she fired right up and when I left work no problem either. Hope you get yours fixed. 
Okay, that I understood -thanks a lot for sharing your experience Foley! When I get back I'll try to get to the bottom with this. Will let you know how it works out! 
