Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

There is oil spewing out of the PCV valve, its covered the valve cover, intake, etc. I am being told it COULD be a bad ring in a cylinder (hoping not). Oh ya, and the engine has a slight tick to it, especially when cold. I am still investigating the issue.
HOWEVER, what would be the best/economical way of going about this? I want to keep the TPI, so LS/LT swap is out. Would a Crate motor be better, or just tear it down and rebuild it? Opinions, thoughts?

When I talked to the PO when I got the car he said he did a "stock" rebuild on it, but couldn't provide any paperwork. Judging by what else I have found with this car that the PO "fixed", the engine is probably FUBARd.

Just looking for ideas at this point really. Any ideas on what/how to investigate further?

NCC-2569

iTrader: (1)

Is the valve still working?
Maybe you only need a new grommet or valve?

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

replaced the driver side grommet and valve. The grommet was extremely hard and brittle. We shall see. Knowing my luck, it can't be that cheap of a fix.

NCC-2569

iTrader: (1)

Wishing you the best here

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

Got the passenger side grommet changed. Thing runs way better, even the brakes are better. BUT (there is always a but), oil pressure is through the roof, gauge hovers around 60 at all times, and spends a lot of that time pegged, even at 1500 RPMs. At idle it will come down, but not go past long line before 60. Is this normal??

fireburdluvr85

Are the oil return ports plugged up? Have you verified the pressure with a mechanical gauge?

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

Where are the return ports to inspect them? No, I dont have a mechanical gauge.

fireburdluvr85

At the ends of the heads, I've seen them sludge up and retain oil in the top end. Under the valve covers. They are right above the two upper heads bolts. A mechanical gauge should always verify oil pressures.
Also, mine hovers around 65 psi til I drive it hard. Then idle it'll settle at 35-40.