Can someone help with these pedal switches?
#1
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Can someone help with these pedal switches?
No idea what to do with these. This is a 700 to T5 swap. I've not seen switches that look like the ones on that clutch pedal in anything I've read. The switch on the single pedal with black backing is my factory brake pedal.
#2
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Location: Saratoga Area, New York
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Car: 1990 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: WC T-5 out of an 88 T/A
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.42 & Torsen Posi
Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
Different years had different switches. Re-use your brake switch. Switches on clutch could be for starter safety switch and cruise control. Only an issue if your car has cruise and you want a functional starter safety switch.
#3
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Car: '86 Camaro, '94 Camaro, 3 others
Engine: LG4 ->L29, L32->LR4, L36, LG4, L31
Transmission: 700R-4, T5WC, 4L80E, SM465, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, WTB/WTT 2.93
Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
Sometimes there's a torque converter unlock feature integrated into the brake light switch. Sometimes it is on a separate switch. Keep 1 switch and 2 wires for the brake lights, the converter unlock can be ignored or removed.
The clutch switch needs to be wired into the yellow and purple wires that went to the neutral start safety switch on the shifter for the automatic.
You do want to do that. If ever anyone starts the car in gear because you didn't, then you're liable for all consequences, no insurance will cover anything.
The clutch switch needs to be wired into the yellow and purple wires that went to the neutral start safety switch on the shifter for the automatic.
You do want to do that. If ever anyone starts the car in gear because you didn't, then you're liable for all consequences, no insurance will cover anything.
#4
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Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
Sometimes there's a torque converter unlock feature integrated into the brake light switch. Sometimes it is on a separate switch. Keep 1 switch and 2 wires for the brake lights, the converter unlock can be ignored or removed.
The clutch switch needs to be wired into the yellow and purple wires that went to the neutral start safety switch on the shifter for the automatic.
You do want to do that. If ever anyone starts the car in gear because you didn't, then you're liable for all consequences, no insurance will cover anything.
The clutch switch needs to be wired into the yellow and purple wires that went to the neutral start safety switch on the shifter for the automatic.
You do want to do that. If ever anyone starts the car in gear because you didn't, then you're liable for all consequences, no insurance will cover anything.
#5
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Car: '86 Camaro, '94 Camaro, 3 others
Engine: LG4 ->L29, L32->LR4, L36, LG4, L31
Transmission: 700R-4, T5WC, 4L80E, SM465, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, WTB/WTT 2.93
Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
I suggest you fudge on that idea a little and upgrade the trans mount to the ES interlocking polygraphite version. The torque arm causes cheap rubber mounts to separate every few years.
#6
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
Switch on the clutch pedal with the vacuum line fitting is the cruise disengage. (takes the cruise off when you push the clutch so it doesn't try to rev the engine to redline to accelerate the car w clutch released)) One with the long slidy thing is the starter safety switch (requires the clutch pedal to be on the floor for the starter to work).
White switch on the brake pedal with only electrical connections is the brake light switch. Other one, which will also have a vac line fitting, is the cruise disengage for the brakes.
White switch on the brake pedal with only electrical connections is the brake light switch. Other one, which will also have a vac line fitting, is the cruise disengage for the brakes.
#7
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Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
Switch on the clutch pedal with the vacuum line fitting is the cruise disengage. (takes the cruise off when you push the clutch so it doesn't try to rev the engine to redline to accelerate the car w clutch released)) One with the long slidy thing is the starter safety switch (requires the clutch pedal to be on the floor for the starter to work).
White switch on the brake pedal with only electrical connections is the brake light switch. Other one, which will also have a vac line fitting, is the cruise disengage for the brakes.
White switch on the brake pedal with only electrical connections is the brake light switch. Other one, which will also have a vac line fitting, is the cruise disengage for the brakes.
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#8
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Car: Yes
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Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
In the cruise control harness for a T-5 car, the vacuum line has a T at the end (actually, more like a "F" but that's just a minor detail); one branch to the one, one branch to the other.
Yes purple & yellow (big fat ones) is the starter interlock wires.
Yes purple & yellow (big fat ones) is the starter interlock wires.
#9
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Re: Can someone help with these pedal switches?
Okay, I went and grab some vacuum hose and a tee. That's easy enough. As for the wiring. The auto version of the cruise vacuum disconnect has a large two prong plug, and so does the T5 one. I only have one connector and it's pink and purple. Do you just add two additional wires to the cruise switch on the clutch pedal, and splice it into the one on the brake pedal? Does the Yellow/Purple connector by the drivers kick already hook up to the proper circuit? Is it just an extension on whats connected to the auto shifter? So In short: The brake pedal has two switches, brake light & cruise interrupt. The clutch pedal has two switches: Neutral safety& cruise interrupt. Why is there two connectors on the neutral safety? I plugged in the Yellow/Purple, but below that is another slot. This is the switch with that long ratchet arm on it, of which I have no idea what that's for.
Last edited by EDGE; 05-15-2015 at 12:44 PM.
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