OK guys, I took this back off the car to finish it up and thought I would post a few pictures. The maf sensor is made from a 4" aluminum tube and pressed into an oval shape to match the throttle body. So I guess its not a 4" anymore but instead a 4 1/2" by 3 1/4'. Either way it should flow more than the throttle body can handle. The air lid was cut into at the seam and raised 5/8" and then fitted with the same oval tube as the maf sensor. I am not finished with these as you can see from the pictures but I was tired of messing with it as I put it on the car and hit the street. Like with any new fabrication you often see thing you could have done better and that is the case here. I used fiberglass resin to attach the the mount pad to the tube. I have ran it for a couple weeks now and when I took it off I noticed that it didn't hold. I will now go back in and screw it to the tube using the same holes that mount the sensor itself to the flat pad run longer screws into the tube. I'll post more pictures later. Dewayne.

now for the lid

wow good deal, looks like you really increased that lid size! thats gonna flow alot more for sure. I just went and did a battery relocation and built a 3.5" MAF and 3.5" CAI. works so far but still needs abit more tuning, i should have it pretty close tomorrow

be prepared to reallllly tweak those tables and it may be best to cut injectors down just to quickly richen it up. i didnt and had to really open up those tables..some are more than doubled

I had it tuned really close with the stock MAF and I only run in open loop. With the new one I didn't change the tables much at all, only the scalars. Retuning was a snap with the w-b o2.
I'm back in tune everywhere with the exception of WOT. I havn't tuned any there, before or after the big maf.

I decided to go with a 4" tube cause when compressed into an oval shape it was the same size as the throttle body.

I got my hand on another lid and have another tube, I may start from scratch and do another one. I kinda got something else on my mind for it now.

When I get done playing with the air intake I'm gonna move to the exhaust, the shorty headers have got to go.

how big can you go on the lid and still clear the hood?

i to am running open loop and have a wideband. for the most part i changed the scalars only to get it close but i really added alot of scalar increase to all the tables, it surprised me how far i had to go.

now i'm going into the tables individually and fine tweaking everything. WOT tuning is later tomorrow i hope

I havn't noticed any rubbing on from the hood so 5/8" clears mine. i have plans to use spray can foam and put something on top of the lid so it don't stick then lay something on top of the foam. Then close the hood and let it set. Once it set I'll be able to see how far I can go.

I think my lid will flow more than it needs to like it is but I didn't like to way it turned out. I'll also be looking into using longer air filters, maybe 6 x 10 or something and mounting them at an angle instead flat. This mod will mean a lot of work to the bottom of the air box.
I want to try this because I feel that my only restriction on the air intake will be the filters now.

thats the way you want it. on stock intake lid, the filters were not the restriction. with and without filters i ran at the track same day, within an hour apart and i had no gains.

TPI intake and MAF are the restriction when your dealing with some serious hp. i am curious as to what your setup does and how much that TPI lid helps which i think it will just because of my seat of the pants feel so far with my new air intake. I think you'll gain some good power

I thought about doing something like you did but I like the look of the air lid plus I will be adding the ram air boxes from Hawks.

Bigger filter may not help any since K & N flow so good but I bet if you put some Fram filters in the you would know it.

I can tell you one thing, my clutch does not like the power I have combined with the M/T et street radials.

I like how you made the MAF sensor oval like that it keeps the guts more in the middle plus the 4" piping is pretty cool Must say I think you have a pretty good idea going there just need some cleanup with that whole system and your good to go!

Clean up???????? no no no no, I'm going for the rat rod look.

Not really, I'm gonna get it looking right. I just ran out of time the day I was working on it and never got back on it. When I'm done the tubes will be back shinning and the lid will be smooth and painted.

how much time to u got into making that tube. i need to eliminate my mass air flow, cuz i switch ecm to c950?

Only an hour or less on the MAF tube, now the air lid is another story.
Its a little more involved cause you have to cut it open, find something to hold it open to the thickness you want, then fill in the gap. On the outlet tube its just a matter of cutting away the plastice untill the tube will fit in then fill in with epoxy or fiberglass asi did. I ended up with about 4 hours on the lid but I didn't have a plan in advance, I just went ot cutting.

Do you think I could get two of the upper intakes, cut one in half along the base, and cut the other so I have only the vertical pieces (the sides of the upper intake). Then use a plastic welder to connect the two?

What kind of plastic is the intake made of? Do you know of anyone that makes 4" circles of that kind of plastic, or would I have to make my own? Is it really necessary to make the MAF sensor enclosure? Isn't the stock MAF enclosure fairly smooth on the inside to begin with (never looked at mine, just wondering)? Would doing any of this be of any benefit for my stock 305? I also plan to make something like the HAWKS air boxes. Do you think leaving the fog lights in would reduce air flow much, or are they fine left alone?

I have no idea what kind of plastic it is. I reason for the MAF tube is for more air, the stock MAF sensor is smooth on the inside but its only around 2.75 in dia. on the inside. With larger cu in engines at high rpm's you need way more air than a stoch MAF can flow. I don't think a stock 305 would see any gain by doing this. Plus, you must be able to tune because the MAF tables will ahve to be changed.

Hey D,I knew when I was looking at your pictures on the website you had done something to the air lid.Iwas like is something wrong with that thing.Now I understand.Are those pics of your boat at the Ross Barnette Res?
Pretty good fab skills.Is your T-5 stock?

I'm not 100% happy with the lid and have another one I'll be working on soon.

Yes, those boat pictures were taken at Ross Barnette/Pearl River. My Camaro engine almost ended up in it but I couldn't figure out what to do with an O2 sensor in a wet exhaust system.

The T-5 is stock, but has been rebuilt once before. It, as well as my clutch really hate engine and tires.

BTW, I'm not gonna do anything else on my site. I got work from MSN that they are shutting down all the groups after the first of the year. When I get a chance I'll look into something else but for now I'm just gonna hang out here.