New here - my 86 iroc-z
#1
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Car: 86 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305
New here - my 86 iroc-z
Ive been wanting a camaro ever since I was 14 or so, and finally purchased one friday at the age of 17. Its a 1986 iroc-z28 with 88,500 miles for $3,000. It has a 305 tpi as of now, . But I just got the car because of the condition and looks. I just drive my dads 72 el camino when I wanna go fast, which is also in the pictures. It has a modded 350 with 80,000 miles on the car. The engine is fairly newer. So far I like the camaro, its got a nice flowmaster muffler with dual chrome tips, the only thing bugging me is that it idles at around 1300 rpm when in park no matter if its warm or cold. but as soon as you put it in gear it jerks then settles down, but as soon as you put it back in park it goes back up to around 1300, any opinions will help, please share your thoughts. Enjoy the pictures.
oh yea, forgot to mention I havent washed or cleaned it yet, just got it friday night and it was 25 degrees here today so that eliminates the washing part
oh yea, forgot to mention I havent washed or cleaned it yet, just got it friday night and it was 25 degrees here today so that eliminates the washing part
Last edited by Jim86IROCZ28; 02-04-2006 at 11:28 PM.
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Car: '86 IROC, '87 Volvo 240, '09 Malibu
Engine: LB9 5.0L
Transmission: 700R4
Tune and mod that LB9 a bit, and she'll move right along. Maybe not eyeball-popping acceleration, but she'll definitely move.
Aerodynamics really help with top speed, too. You should be able to hit at least 120 in stock form (that is, providing you can find a long, open stretch of road with no other cars and no cops around...)
Aerodynamics really help with top speed, too. You should be able to hit at least 120 in stock form (that is, providing you can find a long, open stretch of road with no other cars and no cops around...)
#6
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Car: '88 IROC-Z / '91 Z28 / '91 GTA
Engine: LT4 Hot Cam 305 / L98 355 / MR 383
Transmission: 5-spd / 700R4 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:45 / 3:23 / 3:23
doesn't mean its an LB9.. still will be sluggish being an auto.
looks nice and clean thou, nice score!
looks nice and clean thou, nice score!
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#8
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Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: A4
I love the 86s. I think you got a good deal there. I think those foglights should prolly go though.
Welcome to the site.
Welcome to the site.
#9
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Car: 86 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305
Originally posted by Jgolden314
I love the 86s. I think you got a good deal there. I think those foglights should prolly go though.
Welcome to the site.
I love the 86s. I think you got a good deal there. I think those foglights should prolly go though.
Welcome to the site.
Thanks for all the great replys so far. Looking forward to more.
If anybody could help me with another questions I have - I was going to put a filter straight on the intake but one of my buddies said theres a censor that I have to bypass. How does that work?
#10
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The black tube thing with the wire attached to the bottom side of it is you MAF. It's between the intake itself and the airbox. Anyhow, TPI motors from 85-59 used Mass Air Flow sensors to meter the air coming into the motor. 90-92 motors went to Speed Density, which measure air pressure rather than air flow. Anyhow, since you have MAF, not SD, you can't put a filter directly on the front of the intake without bypassing that sensor. Bypassing it means a whole new computer. Totally not worth the effort. Plus, even if you did, the factory airbox is technically a factory installed cold air intake drawing air from the outside. Putting the filter on the intake itself would only draw hot air from the engine bay. You'll notice that even the 90-92 cars with "SD" still use the same intake routing to draw that cold air, even though technically they don't have to since they have no MAF sensor.
...and in the long run, I beleive the MAF is more forgiving when it comes to modifications to the motor. They let you do a LOT more to the car before computer tuning is required. Custom tuning is always a good idea, but it's nice to know it'll run well even if you don't.
Oh, nice car!
...and in the long run, I beleive the MAF is more forgiving when it comes to modifications to the motor. They let you do a LOT more to the car before computer tuning is required. Custom tuning is always a good idea, but it's nice to know it'll run well even if you don't.
Oh, nice car!
#12
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Love the car dude, black is the way to go! As for the 1300rpms at start, try adjusting your TPS. Simply just loosen the bolts holding it in place, and move the sensor up and down while listening to the idle. Thats how I did mine and it hasn't given me problems yet. Again, nice car!
#17
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Car: 86 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305
Thanks guys !!! I tried moving the censor but got nothing. Putting an mp3 cd deck in it next week , and front speakers. I posted a wanted ad for parts in the wanted forum if anybody has any parts I need a headeliner, light lenses, etc . Thanks again
#18
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 3.1
Transmission: Auto
Looks like you have a pretty nice car. For the t-top headliner, I'd do it yourself. ITs VERY easy, and being that your 17, it will save you a few bucks. Just go to an upholstery shop, ask for about 1 1/2-2 yards of headliner material or fabric. I used thick material, so the spray won't go through. Get some 3M headliner adhesive, you can get it at Pep-Boys and I'm sure Autozone and other places have it.
*Remove the headliner material that's on there now.
*Put the T-top bar on the ground or flat surface.
*Clean the surface of the headliner bar to get all the foam off. This will provide a good surface for the material to stick.
*Put the fabric over top check the size.
*Start on one corner(doesnt matter which) and spray the adhesive liberally onto the bar. Wait about 2-3 mins for it to tack up a bit. Then place the material on it. Make sure your careful that you dont get any wrinkles, they can be tough to get out.
*Then move on to the other corners and repeat.
*Next trim around the headliner leaving about 1/2 inch on each side to fold over. Make sure you leave a little more around the sharp corners.
*Flip the headliner over to wrap the excess around the corners.
And if your sun visors arent looking to good, use the left overs to make slip covers for em. Looks pretty good IMO. You can always get your mom to so them for ya.
It only takes about 2 hours to do this, that is taking your time. It cost about $7 for the adhesive and $15-20 for the headliner material. It cost me about $70 to get mine professionally done. Any other questions, just shout me a PM.
Ryan
*Remove the headliner material that's on there now.
*Put the T-top bar on the ground or flat surface.
*Clean the surface of the headliner bar to get all the foam off. This will provide a good surface for the material to stick.
*Put the fabric over top check the size.
*Start on one corner(doesnt matter which) and spray the adhesive liberally onto the bar. Wait about 2-3 mins for it to tack up a bit. Then place the material on it. Make sure your careful that you dont get any wrinkles, they can be tough to get out.
*Then move on to the other corners and repeat.
*Next trim around the headliner leaving about 1/2 inch on each side to fold over. Make sure you leave a little more around the sharp corners.
*Flip the headliner over to wrap the excess around the corners.
And if your sun visors arent looking to good, use the left overs to make slip covers for em. Looks pretty good IMO. You can always get your mom to so them for ya.
It only takes about 2 hours to do this, that is taking your time. It cost about $7 for the adhesive and $15-20 for the headliner material. It cost me about $70 to get mine professionally done. Any other questions, just shout me a PM.
Ryan
#21
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Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro Gunmetal Gray with
Engine: GM Crate ZZZ HO 350, Edelbrock head
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 all TransGo and Beast
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.73 gears
alright another 17 year old with an 86 z. cool lookin car man, and good luck with her.
#23
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
looks good man i always like that grey black two tone interior. agreed nice spent 3 grand
#24
these cars always idle at 1300 rpm when you first start them.After a few seconds or a few minutes depending on how warm the engine is the idle speed should come down to700-800 rpm.If it doesn't I would either suspect a bad idle air speed motor or a vacuum leak.Or someone has messed with the idle speed screw on the throttle body,which is supposed to be a sealed factory adjustment.Good luck..
#30
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Beautiful car and welcome to the boards. I love the Iroc's in black. I was 17 when I was searching for an iroc, but i found a GTA that I wasn't gonna pass up. But now I'm gonna have to trade or sell it for something more economical since I'm on my way to college for the summer semester. Im gonna miss it.
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