JeremyNYR

iTrader: (2)

A long time ago.. like probably at least a year ago, I saw that someone used the rectangular bottle from an Explorer that houses both the coolant and washer fluid bottles in their 3rd gen. I searched trying several different things but can't find the thread! does anyone remember this and know who did it? I'm interested in seeing what was involved. If i can't find anything I may just try to figure it out myself but i'd like to save some time if i can. I'm getting the engine bay painted soon and it'd be awesome if i could get it done smoothed without those bottles on there. Any help would be appreciated. thanks

launchpad

All i have is a picture and I know the bottle is out of a 91 Explorer.
Hope this helps a bit.

MNformula350

iTrader: (2)

That would be me
it was pretty simple i had to change the size of the hose for the wipers as the ford one was a bigger size and i just used 2 self tapping screws to bolt it to the core support. and of cousre splice together the wires for the connector to the pump.
and yes it was out of a 91 Explorer, i had already removed my charcoal canister so that was where i put it. i had to get a longer hose to run to the coolant overflow bottle from the other side of the engine bay and i just put it under the cover for the radiator.
here's a pic of the whole engine bay. you can email or pm me if you have any other questions. i did it 2 years ago but pretty much remember the instal in fact i am doing the same thing to the Iroc this spring as well.

Red87SC

im doin it! that looks soooo clean i love it, now if i can find out where to run the tubes where you cant see them... hmm. where is the pump located? ill go steal my friend's bottle from his explorer and just put mine in there, think he will notice? lol where is the pump, and how hard is it to wire together?

MNformula350

iTrader: (2)

The pump is located directly under the washer fluid fill cap on the bottom of the bottle facing the firewall. wiring is just wiring the power and ground from the car to the ford plug. it was done to clean up all the underhood clutter (i am on a mission tor emove as much useless clutter as possible under the hood) hence the reason no a/c (got t-tops) or emissions garbage. next thing to go is the heater control valve

Sonar_un

Well.. considering you don't have AC, that heater control valve is pretty much useless. Get rid of it

Red87SC

wait, i cant do what you did with yours, i have that char pit thingy for the carb on my car. does that thing have to be there? because i really hate having the thing taking up soo much room that would be used for something else.

Mathius

I'm just guessing on these years based on body styles, but you should be able to find them in 91-94 Explorers, and 89-92 Rangers. My '89 has one, in fact, I'd probably be willing to part with it when I got the time to replace it, but that won't be soon.

You can get brand new ones through LMC truck, but I think you have to order through their catalog or call their number. Last time I checked they didn't have a very good online store. You could order, but you had to have an item #. Good news is their catalog is free. Order the Ranger one if you want it. Also, I can help you guys out... the item # is:

50-8072 for the Washer Resevoir
47-4082 for the Washer Pump
47-3051 for the connector (pigtail) for the Washer Pump

Those items run $46.95 for the tank, $19.95 for the pump, and $14.95 for the pigtail (ouch).

I personally don't care for them, I don't like the design, and they aren't really much to look at, but I can understand the appeal as far as making space.

Enjoy,
Mathius

MNformula350

iTrader: (2)

i got the tank for $10.00 at a local salvage yard and it was $6-7 for the pump at checker

ddn69

Its a pretty cool idea. Is the coolant tank big enough? I know the stock one is pretty big.

Nate

JeremyNYR

iTrader: (2)

AWESOME! I'm amazed that i got my answer so quickly :-). My father has a beat up 93 Explorer that he's getting rid of, so I'll tear out everything i need when i'm back home next weekend. The only thing I don't like about its appearance is the yellow on the top label but i figure that can be changed easily enough.

The hard part is getting the inner fenders smoothed out so it looks good when it's repainted. Does anybody know what would have to be done, where i'd bring it to do it,and what it would cost?

X86TRANSAMWS6X

(charcoal canister) do u need it?, and what the HE!! does it do?

Jeremy

MrDude_1

you need a vent line in your fuel tank so that air can come in as gas is sucked out.


rather then have your fuel evaporate out of a vent line the canister lets it breath air in and out, but keeps the gas fumes in.... your gas doesnt evaporate, and the car doesnt smell like gas fumes near the vent.... also saves you about $25-$35 a year on evaporated gas.


but technicly you dont NEED it.... it doesnt hurt anything performance wise to have it... but some people remove it for the space.

on the more cramped 4thgens, its mounted to the top of the fuel tank.

X86TRANSAMWS6X

Thanx

Jeremy

badandy247

DONE IT

but mines on the other side

and it came out of a 1990 f-150

and it was free from my brothers truck! (he won't miss it much)

what the hell else would you do with a ford?

Red87SC

drive it off a cliff?

Mathius

$6-7 is a lot better price. I hadn't priced them, but typically if someone wants new, the pigtail and the tank itself is only gonna come from Ford or aftermarket, and LMC is the only place I know of.

I agree though, their price on the pump is overpriced. Some of their stuff is good, some of it is overpriced. They want $70 for a new aftermarket tailgate, but they want $109 for a new tailgate skin and $70 for a shaved tailgate handle relocatator kit. So for the same materials, you'd have to pay $179+ have a tailgate already, or pay the $70 for a new one. Nuts.

Mathius

Xophertony

that is real cool. i will look into this, my pump on my bird is shot. what a cool replacement, i will mount it on the other side though, the side the coolend reservoir is suposed to be on. MAN what an inovative idea, the only two things ford EVER did rigt were making there fluid reservoirs so driver friendly (used to work as an oil lube tool guy so i did alot of this stuff) and make there keys so thick. (the only key you can use as a prybar and not bend!

this is the coolest thing ever. one thing my brother and i were discussing is the poor desighn of my washer system, the pump is two feet from the water, it sucks a long way before it pushes, it's way more efficient to push the water further and suck less distance, provides more nosle pressure. this mod works out that kink. kudos to thou

si_camaro

I'm planning on doing a very similar thing to this, but I have a question before I take the plunge. I was under the impression that the coolant overflow bottle needs to be higher than it's radiator inlet, to allow the water to flow back in after the system has cooled. Have you guys had any problems with the water levels, and how did you route the pipework? Or have I got that wrong?

Thanks,
Si

launchpad

When the liquid in the radiator cools it contracts, this causes a vacuum in the sealed space. This vacuum sucks up the coolent in the overflow. The bottle dosn,t have to be higher.

si_camaro

Fantastic! Thank you for the swift reply. My only remaining query is with the bottle lid. Isn't it designed to breathe to allow the expansion in the first place? Therefore not allow a vacuum?

Si

launchpad

the hose that comes from the coolant tank should be at the bottom or be submerged in coolant at the bottom of the tank. So when the vacuum occurs air is not allowed to enter the system, unless the tank runs empty.

No problem

launchpad

The top nipple is to let air and excess coolant out. The bottom nipple is were the hose for the radiator(just below the cap) for coolant expansion-contraction.

si_camaro

It's all fallen into place. Thanks ever so much!

Si

CamarosRUS

i just picked up the same combo bottle the other day and like 15 ft of 4 ga. power cable from the boneyard for $15. i tried to get the washer fluid motor to work (touching the pos and neg wires from the connector to a battery) and i got nothing......think the pump is just shot? it is slightly corroded.

im still debating on whether i want to do this or not though. if i find just a coolant overflow bottle i like better, im just going to get rid of the washer solution all together. ill most likely never use it anyway and im mainly doing this for a space and apperance thing.

a metal overflow bottle would look awesome...who wants to weld on some alumnium for me?

18inchboyds

"good idear" ---paul teutl sr.

JeremyNYR

iTrader: (2)

Cool, didn't think this thread would come back. I decided the box from the explorer is a bit too big for my tastes appearance wise so i'm going with a coolant overflow bottle that's cylindrical and mounts right on the side of the radiator. I'm still looking around for an appropriate washer fluid bottle. Here's how the engine bay looks now....