monsterjam5000

has any one ever done any of this? i found this on another site and there are not pics, can some one post pics of what they are talking about.

some of the things i will not do like sway bar, but most of it i would like to do.

Free stuff:

• Remove weight
• front sway bar should be the first thing to go.
• rear seats
• brace above the panhard bar
• rear speakers and bose/amp if you have one…..i leave the front speakers in because you still need some tunes.
• front bumper supports–this is up to you–it’s under the rubber/urethane front end part, weighs about 15-20lbs right on the nose. HOWEVER, you hit something and you will do lots of damage to the car.
• rear bumper supports–again, up to you–about 15 lbs
• door bars–very hard to remove weigh 9lbs apiece, don’t get t-boned or you will get hurt.
• cruise control module
• A/C stuff–you will need to buy the A/C delete pulley kit (65 bucks) for the removal of the compressor, otherwise you can just remove the condenser in front of the radiator
• carpet and sound deadener–total is around 35lbs. You can take it out and scrape the sound deadener off, it will shed about 10lbs.
• spare tire/jack–15lbs
• mat under rear hatch area–it’s right under the carpet in the back, it’s about 7-10lbs
• dash–under the dash attached to the firewall is a heavy rubber mat, about 10-15lbs. It will require a lot of effort to remove and the car will be louder/hotter inside.
• Get out your sawsall or cut-off wheel–there will be lots of little brackets and stuff that aren’t needed ie:spare tire bracket–get an egg box and toss these things in there as you remove them. They add up quickly. There is a big section under each front fender you can remove with a sawsall, takes off about 7-8lbs each side all off of the front end, totally hidden from view.

I’ll add to this as I remember stuff, but thats about most of the free stuff to remove

camarotucker

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...on-thread.html

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

I compiled an Excel chart of every parts weight that I've ever found on TGO, including every weight listed in the link above. Organized by parts classifications & from highest to lowest weight.

1983Chimaera

So your suggestion is to not only first remove a significant component of the car's front end stability, leaving it prone to oversteer and control issues, but also remove all the safety structural bracing and fire retardant material in the car designed to keep you alive when your car violently careens into oncoming traffic the first time you try to take a turn?
All for maybe 200lbs of weight savings, which equates to roughly 2/10 seconds gain in the quarter mile, yet you want to keep the car on the street?

Ok, sarcasm aside; If you're serious about weight savings, do it right. Don't ever remove parts of your car's steering or stability control, no matter what the Honda forums tell you otherwise. You can find lightweight versions of the components if you want to save weight, but removing sway bars, bracing, etc, is a good way to make your car unstable at speed. At best it will keep your car from passing tech inspection at the track. At worst it will lead to an accident and injure/kill you or others on the street.

If you want to save weight for a track-only car, you have options such as full tubular front end suspension components, lightweight crossmembers, fiberglass replacement front ends and hoods, full custom tubular front clips, lexan windshields and back hatch glass, removing door panels and seats and replacing with lightweight racing seats, replacing the dash with a lightweight sheetmetal piece with simple gauges, lightweight racing wheels, removing headlights and all other non-essential components, etc. You can even go further and have body parts that can't be outright replaced with fiberglass versions acid-dipped to shave their thickness and thus weight. A 3rd gen on a serious diet can be made pretty light, but be aware that there are trade offs as well. First, anything this drastic pretty much relegates the car to strictly track-only use. Second, any car breaking the 10 second mark must have an NHRA-approved cage to pass tech, which adds weight right back into the car. You can also be mandated to have additional safety gear installed, such as approved trans scatter shields, driveshaft safety loops, fuel cell, battery disconnect, etc.

If you want to put a street car on a diet, you can legally remove only so many things, and this is dependent on where you live and local laws. I'm in Texas, where the safety inspection is fairly lax. On my 1983 Z/28, for instance, I can legally remove the following and still pass safety inspection;
windshield (not required, can be cracked, but cannot be deformed if installed. Must be present for track use, however)
windshield wipers (not required if no windshield present)
windshield wiper motor
A/C system and heater box/ducting
radio and speakers (including all wiring)
cruise control
side windows and roll up/down mechanism
rear amber turn signals and back up lights (Have to wire the rear red lights as combo brake/turn signals, and backup lights are not required in Tx)
fog lights
antenna
rear seats
carpet
headliner
T-tops
rear trim
spare tire (the donut is useless anyway)
jack
power seats/mirrors, all interior lighting (and associated wiring)
Keep in mind removing some of these affects the daily driveability of the car, such as removing the windshield, wipers, etc.

Furthermore, I can make the following changes and still pass state safety inspection;
fiberglass hood
V6 nose and remove all ground effects (weight savings, but allows more air to flow under the car effecting downforce. There is debate in other forums on this being a positive or negative net result)
sheetmetal dash with basic gauges
lightweight racing seats
tubular front suspension components, panhard bar, and torsion brace
tubular crossmember
battery relocation (will add weight, but improve weight transfer and launch)
lightweight racing wheels
door panels (must replace with sheetmetal)

If I go one more step and register my car as a Classic, I can pretty much bypass inspection criteria altogether as it will be exempt. This means I can go the route I detailed above and build the car for all out quarter mile use. The drawback is it will be very nearly undriveable on the street, dry weather use only, and Classic tags will not permit it to be used as a daily driver. Insurance is also tricky.

Homer23

Removing the safety structure of any car is foolish.

Removing the front sway bar is ONLY good for drag racing. If you are not drag racing, road racing, or autocrossing, lowering weight may not be a good benefit for you.

If you still need to remove weight, check this site. There is a tech article about lowering weight when you get OFF the forums.

A fairly new modification is low rolling resistance tires. If you don't race, these are a good option to reduce weight and save money on gas.

monsterjam5000

cool so pics

89rs454

Good god, my advice to you or anyone is to get more power to compensate the ****ing weight not sawsall it off WTF?

89rs454

Better yet take it to scrap, it will be one less Thirdgen to the Demographic.

monsterjam5000

did ask for all that, only pictures if you dont have any dont comment.

these cars have tones of weight that is not needed, so why not cut off the nonsense weight

1983Chimaera

Because a lot of the "nonsense weight", as you put it, is in the form of structural bracing and driver protection. The brace above the panhard bar is there to reinforce the rear body. The door bars you recommended removing are physically part of the car's unibody structure when the doors are closed, and also serve to help you survive an accident.

As stated, the rule of thumb is 100 lbs of weight = roughly 1/10th second gain in the quarter mile. I agree with 89rs454, in that if you want to go faster, build your engine and drivetrain. I see from your older posts that you have an LT1 with LT4 parts. Is it optimized? What's your power output to the wheels? I'm assuming you have a 4L60E behind it, have you thought about changing to a manual? How about upgrading the drivetrain? Lightweight flywheel? Aluminum driveshaft? Replace your suspension for better hookup and more launch? Subframe connectors to reduce body flex? Are you running a stock ECM or have you thought about aftermarket, like Megasquirt or Holley Commander, Fast EFI, etc, so you can get more out of the engine? How about forced induction? Go with a bigger cam? Swap out for an LS1 conversion maybe?

Your idea is basically akin to a hypothetical runner thinking he'll run faster if he surgically removes his arms to lighten himself. I'm telling you his arms are there to help balance him when he runs, and when he falls to keep his face from smashing into the ground.

As I already posted, there are a lot of things you can safely remove, and others you can replace with lighter versions (that may even improve handling and suspension over the OEM parts). Being that you said this is intended to be a street car, I highly recommend you don't just hack away at your car and remove any steering, suspension, safety, or structural parts of your car. If you want to strip it down and take it to a track that way to kill yourself, fine. But do NOT put a mess like that on the street where you'll kill someone else when you Darwin yourself into oncoming traffic. My point is there is a lot you can do to increase your performance without resorting to "I'll just hack off weighty bits till it's faster".