Greg Kuhlmann

Everytime i hit a bump or something i have so many rattles. I cant stand it. I dont know what to do... would you suggest just taking everything off and putting rubber washers in the screws or insulate it..... what should i do.. im not joking i have so many and its almost embarrising!

chrisb62

my car is like that too...but mines mostly related to the last owner or somewhere down the line prolly took some stuff apart and back together and had screws left over, plus some stuff is cracked, and whatnot, but in my case its just a matter or screwing pieces on tight, especially in the doors

Greg Kuhlmann

yeah i think most of mine is from the doors!

redraif

Well I had the annoying creaks and rattles in my car. I got tired of maxing the radio to hear over them and the wind noise when I drove, so I sound proofed everything. And I mean everything.

I did it in stages. When ever I had to do maintenence I would clean and sound proof.

My doors were the worst. I took off the panels to convert to power windows and locks and figured while I was at it. Well I got Duplicolor's Sound Eliminator (not water soluble. Its like a tar). I sprayed the outer metal skin inside the door. (had to cover all components and window) I dynamated the inner skin behind the door panel. Then I added some sub box carpet to the back side of the door panels.

When every thing went back together I was amazed. 99% better. So I sprayed in the inner nooks and craneys and backed all my speaker plates in Dynamat. And when I replaced my carpet I sprayed the floor and laid down Thermoshield. While the panels were out I lined all of them with box carpet as well.

The craziest thing I did was jack up the car and clean it and spray down everything that would not be hurt by the stuff. The car is amazing now. The only rattles or creeks are from the frame, but the subframe connectors will hopefully be installed next week and they will stop that.

Now the odd side effect is the fact that the bass from my sound system does not travel outside the car that much. But man it has helped the sound inside. I don't have to turn the radio up so much and it hits hard. None of the buzzing or horrid rattles with the bass outside the car.

redraif

another

redraif

I had to have gone thru a good 30 cans on the whole car.

Pic of one of my remains:

No4NJunk

two word sum it up......Subframe connectors. At least thats what took care of mine.

Greg Kuhlmann

i know my trunk rattles that and the doors is what im thinking is most of the problem... i do have some what of a loud system... the outside of my car (with the music blarring) doesnt rattle at all.. its just all inside...

subframe connecters took care of the rattles inside your car?

StngKlr

Well all camaros (esp. older ones) have bad problems with noise and rattles inside the car. My car is the same way. I've done the Dynamat in most places, silicone on other parts, and I still have the rattles.

I think I need better struts and shocks, as well as other suspension parts (SFC's I can see helping out greatly, will stiffen out the chassis way better). To sum it up, go with the cheapest thing first, then go on till you are satisified.

FyreLance

Wow, guess I'm not the only one. The rattling in my 91 Formula is HORRIBLE. Every little bump it goes "squeak-squeak-squeak" and it's friggin' annoying. A lot of it has to do with my "performance suspension" I think. It handles and corners awesome, but I feel every stinking tiny dip and bump in the road. I want to redo the suspension but I'm afraid that if I get a smoother ride, I'll trade off some of my handling. I don't want to do that because I want to give autocross a try. Will it harm me that bad?

BTW, most of my rattling comes from my trunk I think...

StngKlr

Most of the rattling comes from the metal to metal contact.
Doing away with this will help out. I think most of my rattling comes from the doors, and also from the rear. I think new door hinges will help out greatly.

Otherwise say what I say to somebody riding with me,
"Hey it's a 3rd Gen. Camaro, what do you want... Comfort?"

"You will get handling and speed and like it"

IROC212

iTrader: (1)

My 86 was pretty tight when I first got it, after I did the Bilstien's and other stiff suspension parts rattles start to show up. I noticed the worst were from the doors, A-pillars, T-top mouldings (where the weatherstripping goes) and the trim panel where the headliner and the rear hatch meet.
I started by replacing the clips for the A-pillar trim, and using 3m foam tape on the parts that touch metal, or the dash pad.
The doors needed new plastic pieces on the top of the door panels, I wrapped really small pieces of foam around the lock rods, and the wiring for the power windows. Dynamat is now on the inner metal bracing of the door panels, and Noise killer in the inside of the door panel. P.S if you use this stuff, mask off EVERYTHING. The stuff is smurf blue and as hard a concrete.
The rear panel is insulated with small O-rings where the screws go through, and a thin coat of silicone where the panels overlap.

I know this is really long, but I got all of this from my friend who is a trim tech at a dealership. It made my car sooo much quieter, Subframe connectors cured that creaking nosie my car made on driveways.
I hope this helps

pvknight

iroc212 is the 'rear panel' you're talking about the plastic trim pieces that go around the trunk area w/ the plastic screws? if you silicone the overlaps, can you still take apart the plastic panels if you need to?

also - anyone know how to quiet the hatch? mine rattles like crazy and i have new hatch-struts on there. it doesn't rattle when i try shaking from the outside (spoiler/decklid) but it gets pretty bad when driving.

one more thing - i have spohn sfc's in my car and i still get floorpan creaks right under my driver seat, seems to when in parking lots/ramps after a long drive. could this be b/c the car was previously (different owner) dropped very low (he told me 3-4''!)

well thanks - im going to really go at the door rattles, shut up the hatch, and mess with the interior panels. sometimes it's hard to TALK to my passengers cuz it's so frickin' rattle-ey

youngin

hey, I posted this on the audio forum, but got no responses, and since this topic is about rattles on the cars I have one I just can't seem to get rid of. Maybe someone else has had this problem and can help me. It is the skid-plate for the gastank I think. It is the cover under the car that you can see from the back. Anybody else experience this problem and have a fix for it?

DJP87Z28

For starters to tighten up your car .....INSTALL SFC'S......

FruityOne

Youngin, I have the same problem, a few of the tabs for the bolts are ripped so its hanging loose. At idle, it'll hit the right resonation frequency and it'll make that nasty noise. I say just put a 4th gen plastic tank in it. ^_^

redraif

I had to replace my fuel pump, so when we dropped my tank, I sprayed it with Dulicolors sound Elliminator and also sprayed the body where the tank goes and sprayed the heat shield. I then painted everything with spray paint to seal the sound proofing!

dsaint1347

IROC212
When you say Silicon do you mean the bathroom type or the type thats like a grease, and how exactly do you put it on. This sounds better than the double sided tape idea.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The following thread may be helpful:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124084

JamesC

blacksheep-1

You guys have some great ideas, for the dash rattles try this. When I had to totally disassemble the dash to replace the heater core, I took the time to fix the rattles. EVERY place that had plastic panels that overlapped I either used duct tape as a gasket to prevent the squeaks. Pieces that were installed as permanent I used a silicone (a little goes a long way) adhesive. When sheet metal screws were inserted I used a threadlocker. Any parts thater were cracked or broken, like the console, I either replaced or repaired. All of the wiring that was hanging around was either put back into it's harness, or a harness was made and tie-wraps were used to secure them. I found that the factory was a little lax in the wiring dept, and I spent a lot of time there. One of the problems I found was that some one had tried to tighten everything up and stripped out some of the plastic. In this case I used a soldering iron to remelt the plastic so the screw would grab. (use that on the back of th epanel, not the front!) I spent about 2 weekends on this project, but it was well worth it, while I was there I replaced the dash pad, instrument cluster, and rebuilt the clutch linkage, an dof course, the heater core.

Frank Mars

I moved to an aera that has potholes everywhere. My car is ok on a good road but hit some rough roads and it rattles. I think it is the doors and the windows in the doors. Also the door handles are a bit loose and rattle. They need a new spring or something. I am going to take the doors apart and try and tighten stuff up.

z28crazy

i used to have many of the same problems with my 86 -z28. but then i took the time to find where the rattles were comming from. i had a 10inch crack in the middle of my dash, that would rub and rattle as soon as the ca was turned on. so i replaced the whole dash. its not as hard as it sunds but that helped so much because i also replaced washers with plastic washers. then i got sub-frameconnctors, they will tighten up the hadeling and quiet 90% of remaining rattles(in my opinion) then i put dynomat in my doors. with those three tasks, there is not a squeak out ofmy car. the hours were well worth it.

i recommend sub-frame connectors to everyone, bolt in but then also weld them. they do wonders.

pvknight

i have sub fram connectors and they didn't quiet very many rattles (but improved the handling!) but... my hatch rattles like CRAZY... solutions??

z28crazy

" have sub fram connectors and they didn't quiet very many rattles (but improved the handling!) but... my hatch rattles like CRAZY... solutions??


try checkin the hinge bolts, the holes they go through could be enlarged due to use. if this istrue, get bolts that fit theholes then drill the hinge to necessary size. also check the lock portion for wear. if it has an electric pull down, a new unit could be needed.

redraif

You might also want to try & put some felt or rubber washers between the body and the nuts on the inside of the door. Since mine are shaved I can't say if tehy rattle, but I think they were quiet. So tightening them down might do the trick!

Poncho Villa

The worst rattle I had turned out to be the spare, jack etc. had gotten loose, tightened retaining bolt. Didn't even know it was back there for the longest time! Rear hatch will be tighter if the struts are good, I think they help hold it in place.

I want to get SFC's plus Wonderbar and strut brace--the front and back of the car are very stiff, so the floor pan needs support, especially with suspension upgrades. I eliminated a lot of rattles just looking for the sound, and tightening up what was usually loose screws. These cars do have really stiff suspension for street cars, so driving them with care helps too, don't go fast on bumpy roads, watch dips, and keep the suspension in good order. I'm getting new shocks and struts next week, because my old ones just aren't soaking up the bumps any more.

icarus402001

I added a wonder bar and strut tower brace. No rattles at all from dash. Now to tackle the rear. I forgot about the spare. I'll check that.

DJP87Z28

Welded in SFC's

j dezzy

iTrader: (12)

I have all kinds off goofy rattles on my 91 bird. I'm just systematically going through the entire car and taking care of everyone. Luckily for me though that I'm rebuilding the car so I don't have to wory about too much being in my way since I have the interior out and everything. I've found that the simplest things on the car rattle the most. Like the door handles, the exhaust brackets, the rear hatch...things like that. New weather stripping ove the whole car helped with a lot of rattles.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

My hatch rattles really bad on the 92. I noticed that the shocks that hold up the hatch seem to be about shot. Thats what i'm guessing whats wrong with mine.

On my 86 i had the hatch pull-down motor break its welds and the plastics were holding it back.